Landtank MAF. (2 Viewers)

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NLXTACY, your truck would probably be a great one to get on a dyno. You could do a "before" with your current setup to compare for when you install your supercharger, and then you could do a "stock" with the OEM housing, and then when your supercharger is installed you could get an after and it would pretty much cover the full spectrum of everyone's setups. ha.
 
Yes I'm interested in the housing and sensor. I'm not discounting your results and I can't say for sure that I revved the sleeved housing that high.

However with Cattledog's help we climbed an on ramp on I95 in second gear to red line several times to check for a timing pull. That was a rather steep climb to ensure a good load on the truck.

Since you were seeing it as well on the street it should show up on my truck as well. However you do have other modifications that could play into things I suppose.

It actually might be Sunday before I have any results for those who are anxious to see them.
 
NLXTACY, your truck would probably be a great one to get on a dyno. You could do a "before" with your current setup to compare for when you install your supercharger, and then you could do a "stock" with the OEM housing, and then when your supercharger is installed you could get an after and it would pretty much cover the full spectrum of everyone's setups. ha.

To be honest this is pretty much what I want to do except in this order:

1. Find a used loaner OEM unit and dyno
2. Replace with Gen2 (need to get one) and dyno
3. Finish the SC install and dyno with GEN2 (I'm pretty confident I won't be testing with OEM after the SC install)
4. Install 2.8 pulley and dyno

Obviously I need to get some miles/time between steps one and two but steps three and four can be done back to back.

Al I need now is a local 4Wheel dyno. Dunno have one.

Edit: for those that don't know, I completely rebuilt my engine about 6000 miles ago and went over sized pistons, ported heads, bored TB and ceramic coated exhaust. Plus a few other toys but that's the jist of it
 
That's the problem! If you go back and read my emails I laid out what you should be seeing for AFRs. On a NA engine I've never seen AFRs anything other than 12.3 during open loop.

We only see AFRs of 10.0 (rich) on boosted trucks where air flows begin to produce pressure.
 
I found a nearby dyno location with dynojet. I'm gonna call them in the morning. What condition the truck needs to be in order to do a dyno test? Mine has been a daily driver for more than couple years now and I do 4K rpm and higher sometimes to get out of people's way. On the toll road around here every one does 75 or 80 (and there are those with MB and ricers that go faster, not mentioning any number). The response has been pretty quick overtime (forget how many years now) with GENI housing and sleeve.
 
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Oh nice work Riad

The settings I used were:

2nd gear pulls, A/C off, PWR on. Wheelbase for the dyno is 112", standard correction factor, pull from as low an RPM as you can and the dyno shop will stop it at redline. Ask them to put the O2 sensor in your tailpipe and if they have the datalink module for the dynojet ask them to hook up the OBDII sensor.
 
Hmmmm well yeah that is a big difference between 12.3 and 10, still fighting with why the OEM wouldn't have that problem, or why if I had a problem with my fuel system the OEM housing wouldn't be effected by it? Hopefully someone with a fairly stock truck locally will want to take me up on my offer.


That's the problem! If you go back and read my emails I laid out what you should be seeing for AFRs. On a NA engine I've never seen AFRs anything other than 12.3 during open loop.

We only see AFRs of 10.0 (rich) on boosted trucks where air flows begin to produce pressure.
 
I found a nearby dyno location with dynojet. I'm gonna call them in the morning. What condition the truck needs to be in order to do a dyno test? Mine has been a daily driver for more than couple years now and I do 4K rpm and higher sometimes to get out of people's way. On the toll road around here every one does 75 or 80. The response has been pretty quick overtime (forget how many years now) with GENI housing and sleeve.

It will likely look similar to Scottryana's, but if you want to go ahead.

I was first told that the truck was running lean and pulling timing. Running lean has never been a problem, only running rich.

Now it is obvious that it's running rich and I'm skeptical if it's pulling timing. I"m expecting my truck to do the same if I push it that hard. Probably not to that extent as I have a cobbled together exhaust that most likely doesn't flow as well and Scootryana's.
 
Hmmmm well yeah that is a big difference between 12.3 and 10, still fighting with why the OEM wouldn't have that problem, or why if I had a problem with my fuel system the OEM housing wouldn't be effected by it? Hopefully someone with a fairly stock truck locally will want to take me up on my offer.

If it's in the MAF it comes down to the ID of the bore.
 
If you are are calling into question my integrity you can call the shop directly and ask them about the timing pull. JMS Racing 210.310.1729. Ask for George.

I have been as forthcoming with any data as I can be. I am still very curious to see others results and I hope to find someone locally if not, the first person out there that does this on a dynojet dyno I will PayPal you $75.

To me this is not a matter of being right or wrong, if this thing works and produces amazing results on other trucks, then it is obviously in my best interest to figure out why it isn't on my truck. If this is the norm than fine. We all learn from trial and error.
 
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I am still very curious to see others results and I hope to find someone locally if not, the first person out there that does this on a dynojet dyno I will PayPal you $75.
Ryan, I am waiting to turn up the boost on the dyno until after I put some miles on my set up, but if you are eager to run the test on another truck I can meet you at JMS sometime next week just for the test (I would need to borrow your OEM MAF since mine has vanished into thin air). My truck is FI of course so I don't know if that would fit the bill for this comparison.
 
If you are are calling into question my integrity you can call the shop directly and ask them about the timing pull. JMS Racing 210.310.1729. Ask for George.

I have been as forthcoming with any data as I can be. I am still very curious to see others results and I hope to find someone locally if not, the first person out there that does this on a dynojet dyno I will PayPal you $75.

To me this is not a matter of being right or wrong, if this thing works and produces amazing results on other trucks, then it is obviously in my best interest to figure out why it isn't on my truck. If this is the norm than fine. We all learn from trial and error.

Didn't mean to come across that way.

My gut is telling me that the bore is slightly undersized. And your truck is likely the best platform to use to dial it in.

As I told Riad, another dyno run will likely look like yours unless I see a startling difference on my truck. I would suggest waiting until I can test my truck.
 
They probably won't have any spot for me in the morning, I'd be surprised if they do. In any case, My plan is to setup an appointment for a later time, probably next weekend. I guess I will wait till you are done Rick. Looking forward to your result.
 
Just talked to the guys at dyno shop, they can't do a full time 4WD. Can I do this by disconnecting front drive shaft and CDL locked? Or that's gonna break something? I haven't locked my CDL in a long while. The guy referred me to another shop that supposedly does full time 4WD dyno. I gotta look them up.
 
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