I was nervous about that as well, turns out it was a non issue. As long as your air compressor can keep up you should be good to go.
LANDCRUISER 80 SERIES 1FZ FE VALVE SEAL REPLACEMENT IN THE TRUCK INCLUDES # 6 CYLINDER!
- Thread starter Doso
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 1fz fe fzj80 land cruiser video
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Well I did this job a few days ago on my 1FZ-F (FZJ75 pickup). I'm not too bright so here's some things for other people doing this in the future:
I used the hammer tool (above) for the keepers. It captures the keeper cap and halves with a magnet after you whack it with a hammer over the valve. Then you whack it with a hammer to install it again, very easy to use. (Use forceps to remove the keeper halves from the tool).
This was my set up for the spark plug hose, assembled from an Amazon compression tester, a tube from a vacuum gauge (but any hose would work), and random fittings from a cheap Amazon compressor fittings kit. On the spark side I just used a zip tie and a piece of wire. A hose clamp made it too wide in the spark tube and not seat easily in the threads.
I have a basic little compressor with a tank. Each cylinder drained air at a different rate. My compressor couldn't quite keep up but the fully charged tank left tons of margin in case of power loss or something. I set the pressure to 50 PSI on the line. We let the tank fully recharge between cylinders and cool down to avoid any duty cycle issues.
The main air loss was the spark plug since you can't torque down the fitting just holding a hose obviously. I just put a paper towel around the hose and jammed it in the top of the spark plug tube.
A competent helper was a great help. One person whacked the keeper off and replaced the seal, meanwhile the other person reassembled the keeper and spring and placed it for person one to whack back in place. Once we had the rhythm we were flying. Took like 4 minutes per cylinder for the last 4.
The OTRAMM videos was were all we used for the cam stuff.
The glorious 70 series engine bay is easy to work in. The hood opens like 70 degrees (held open with a ratchet strap from the back of the cab). Then no EFI = no throttle body in the way. And no heater valve blocking cylinder 6 made it a piece of cake at the end
I used the hammer tool (above) for the keepers. It captures the keeper cap and halves with a magnet after you whack it with a hammer over the valve. Then you whack it with a hammer to install it again, very easy to use. (Use forceps to remove the keeper halves from the tool).
This was my set up for the spark plug hose, assembled from an Amazon compression tester, a tube from a vacuum gauge (but any hose would work), and random fittings from a cheap Amazon compressor fittings kit. On the spark side I just used a zip tie and a piece of wire. A hose clamp made it too wide in the spark tube and not seat easily in the threads.
I have a basic little compressor with a tank. Each cylinder drained air at a different rate. My compressor couldn't quite keep up but the fully charged tank left tons of margin in case of power loss or something. I set the pressure to 50 PSI on the line. We let the tank fully recharge between cylinders and cool down to avoid any duty cycle issues.
The main air loss was the spark plug since you can't torque down the fitting just holding a hose obviously. I just put a paper towel around the hose and jammed it in the top of the spark plug tube.
A competent helper was a great help. One person whacked the keeper off and replaced the seal, meanwhile the other person reassembled the keeper and spring and placed it for person one to whack back in place. Once we had the rhythm we were flying. Took like 4 minutes per cylinder for the last 4.
The OTRAMM videos was were all we used for the cam stuff.
The glorious 70 series engine bay is easy to work in. The hood opens like 70 degrees (held open with a ratchet strap from the back of the cab). Then no EFI = no throttle body in the way. And no heater valve blocking cylinder 6 made it a piece of cake at the end
Gents, if a piston is in TDC, will valves drop down - ? (meaning if I am not using air pressure)
Last edited:
Yes it will drop, not sure if you could pull it back up manually so you could add air pressure but to install the valve keepers will be nearly impossible.
Another option is to feed rope into spark plug hole of a cylinder at bottom dead center, rotate the engine to top dead center will keep the valves closed with no danger dropping because you loose air pressure.
So a question to the folks that have tackled this job.
How many hours should I set aside for it? I have all the parts and tools on hand, just waiting for a good time to tear into it.
Thank you
-Rob
How many hours should I set aside for it? I have all the parts and tools on hand, just waiting for a good time to tear into it.
Thank you
-Rob
Took me and a friend 8 hours on my 70 series 1FZ-F. That was going slowly for the cam stuff, letting the compressor recharge/cool between cylinders (just for insurance), and a union mandated lunch break. When actually doing the seals we went smooth and fast, two people made doing it 24 times really efficient.
Agreed. A full day if you haven't done it before. You need to thoroughly read the cam removal AND installation procedure, before you take anything apart. It's far easier to disassemble than to reassemble, if you don't know what you're doing. It's easy-peasy if you follow the steps in the manual.
OMG what a pain in the butt. finally doing this and it is taking forever. The first 2 cylinders went ok but the valve seals were so stuck on there. What worked for me was a smaller needle nose vice grips and wiggle that sucker back an forth while pulling up and twisting. Also, my crank is rotating when trying to do cylinder 3 so I'm having to rig up a flexplate holding solution. I'm going to try the 14mm impact socket trick. if anyone else has ideas i'm all ears.
To prevent the crank from moving, I had a breaker bar + 30mm socket on the crank bolt, and then I secured it with wire to the valve cover bolt hole on the front of the engine and the distributor.
Then when done I set the crank back where it started, 0 degrees.
For the seals what tool are you using? The one I linked above worked well for me since you could twist the pliers to free up the seal.
Thansk foe the idea!
I’m half blind and pretty dumb myself but I didn’t see a link for pliers? I ended up customizing a pair of 7” needle nose vice grips by grinding down the inside of the jaws for more “wiggle room” around the valve stem. They seem a little short for what I’m trying to do with them.
I’m regretting not getting your recommended valve keeper remover. So far I have managed to launch a keeper 3 times and by no less than an absolute miracle found them. I’m calling it a night and going to go buy a lottery ticket haha
I’m half blind and pretty dumb myself but I didn’t see a link for pliers? I ended up customizing a pair of 7” needle nose vice grips by grinding down the inside of the jaws for more “wiggle room” around the valve stem. They seem a little short for what I’m trying to do with them.
I’m regretting not getting your recommended valve keeper remover. So far I have managed to launch a keeper 3 times and by no less than an absolute miracle found them. I’m calling it a night and going to go buy a lottery ticket haha
I’m tackling this project tonight as well.
Did y’all remove the distributed, or is there room to work around it?
-Rob
Did y’all remove the distributed, or is there room to work around it?
-Rob
Good luck! For the distributor you can unbolt the 1 bolt and slide it out slightly to disengage from the cam sprocket. Then side it back in after you have the sprocket removed.
Sorry I guess I didn't link them, they are the same ones talked about earlier in this thread.
I didn't remove the distributor. I marked the teeth on the cam sprocket and the distributor gear with a silver sharpie. Then I took a picture so I could put the cam sprocket on the same tooth later.
Made it this far tonight, will tackle the seals tomorrow
There's room for another zip tie on the sprocket...
Man, I get it. Sometimes you just want to be sure.
Just picking
Valve seals installed! I made a quick video on Cylinder 2 using the Lisle 36200 tool. It worked great, but I had to get a little creative on Cylinder 6.
I hope to have it buttoned up this evening.
-Rob
I hope to have it buttoned up this evening.
-Rob
Awesome video and super helpful. I'm about to tackle this job, so I'm glad I came across this. Whole thread is great.
Hi all - quick question as I am doing this job now. I am doing each valve one at a time. Some of the lifters will not go back in. This does not make sense to me as I know I haven't mixed them up as I am doing one at a time. Any thoughts? It came out easily enough, but will not go back down. Its not the spring either, since I tried to fit it in without the spring, just to see if it would fit. Would love to know what you did if you ran into this before. I am not sure if they can be super tight/forced or not.
also, old seals are a huge huge huge pain to get out. I'm spending 15-20 min on each one
Thanks.
also, old seals are a huge huge huge pain to get out. I'm spending 15-20 min on each one
Thanks.
Last edited: