Builds Krice Build Thread- “The Bird” (7 Viewers)

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Had my mechanic replace CVs with new units. He also swapped out the t case oil with synthetic and lubed up all the driveshafts. It drives SO much tighter and smoother. Don’t forget to grease the driveshaft people.
 
Also wanted to just reiterate how much I love this 100 series platform. The cruiser was at my mechanic for a few weeks (he’s slow but does great work and I didn’t need it)

while it was away, I dreamed about a 200, new power wagon etc. once I got back in the 100, all those thoughts went away. I believe an early 100(without ATRAC / VSC) is the most modern analog SUV you can get.
145k miles and drives better than it did 5 years ago with 60k. It’s amazing how well these things drive when well taken care of
 
UPDATE: Relaced SHOT rear U-Joint on the drive shaft - drives 100 times smoother.
 
Update: New alternator and battery this year. Currently in for oil chance, pretrip check, and UCA Ball joints - driver boot is cracked so ordered 2 x 555 Ball Joints form Cruiser Outfitters via Cruiserteq.com


ASFIR Skids are installed.
Pic for attention.
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Great experience with Cruiser Outfitters and MT Scheile (STL Mechanic) as usual. Ball joints arrived in 3 days.

Wow drives way tighter with fresh UCA Ball joints and alignment.
 
valve cover gaskets and new spark plugs at 160k miles.
 
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The 100 is a great Dad wagon. The platform is a built in seat for baby and tailgate is built in seat for dad.
 
View attachment 3245647
The 100 is a great Dad wagon. The platform is a built in seat for baby and tailgate is built in seat for dad.
I can't comment with authority on the 100 series, but the 80 was pretty darned good too, until I stupidly installed the Kaymar rear bumper with swing-away carriers. I used to love watching my little one climb from ground, to slider, to rear (middle) seat, and run across to his child seat, and later booster seat. When his head started to touch the ceiling, he innocently announced that "we needed a bigger/taller car".
 
When I installed my BIOR rear bumper, i wasn’t able to bolt the wing bracket to the frame. The nut insert in the frame was misaligned from the hole in the frame itself. I had to weld the brackets on. Anyone else have this issue? I did take it to a professional and they could not wiggle the nuts to align either (using screw driver and hammer to wiggle).

This is NOT a flaw of the beefy BIOR bumper and the rest of my install was great and the ordering process with Mike was wonderful as well.
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When I installed my BIOR rear bumper, i wasn’t able to bolt the wing bracket to the frame. The nut insert in the frame was misaligned from the hole in the frame itself. I had to weld the brackets on. Anyone else have this issue? I did take it to a professional and they could not wiggle the nuts to align either (using screw driver and hammer to wiggle).

This is NOT a flaw of the beefy BIOR bumper and the rest of my install was great and the ordering process with Mike was wonderful as well. View attachment 3533738
Had the same issue with mine. The factory welded nuts on the inside of the frame were misaligned and i was able to stick a long flathead in the rear frame opening and break the old nut/bracket combo off. I straightened them up and welded a new brace and nuts to it and then inserted back into the frame. It is held in by the bolts now. Does this make sense?? Basically they are misaligned because the old welded bracket is not very strong and it twists when you remove the old bolts. BIO rear is so sick. Recovered my friends f250 with trailer attached last week in the snow with a snatch strap and bumper didn't budge.
 
Had some work done by my Toyota Mechanic - not the dealer.

Here’s the cost:
Front / rear rotors and pads- reseal front hubs -$1,290

Timing belt, thermostat and housing and heater T: $1,282

These are reliable but not cheap to maintain. Although I am very happy with what I was charged and feel it was fair.
 
Note to self my “new” tires which were purchased November of 201@ have 30-35k miles on them.

They are heavy! Hindsight I would have kept 16s and 285s- however I love the looks/ drivability kf 275/70 18- narrower so turning radius is a bit better and less squish with larger rims. But definitely heavier than 16s and it’s noticeable on the 4 speed.

Also I only put ~3k miles on the 100 in 2023
 
Were you driving south on 270 around 8:30A yesterday? I think I might have seen your rig. If not it was another dark-colored 100 with a bumper :).
 
Replaced the old blown speakers with Focals at the recommendation of Crutchfield. These are 100x better than the old speakers from 1998. Can’t believe I waited so long.

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Towed a u-haul 6x12 trailer about 1200 miles. Guessing 2500-3000lbs.

Doing 60-65 i was getting 11-12mpg. Not bad considering that’s what I get around town with heavy tires and full armor & rack.
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Towed really well, id you maintain these beasts, they’ll treat you right.
 
Towed a u-haul 6x12 trailer about 1200 miles. Guessing 2500-3000lbs.

Doing 60-65 i was getting 11-12mpg. Not bad considering that’s what I get around town with heavy tires and full armor & rack. View attachment 3547090

Towed really well, id you maintain these beasts, they’ll treat you right.

Good to know that the tow job went smooth. I'll be tugging uhaul trailer loaded with my Duc and gear from DC to Nola.
 
Replaced the old blown speakers with Focals at the recommendation of Crutchfield. These are 100x better than the old speakers from 1998. Can’t believe I waited so long.

View attachment 3547084
What else was needed other than the speakers themselves? Wiring harness or brackets etc?
 
What else was needed other than the speakers themselves? Wiring harness or brackets etc?
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My order came with all of this. But we did not use the brackets nor the harnesses. I think the plugged right up ( had my mechanic install ) he said it was easy.
 
@krice118 - I think I will get the same speakers as you! Did you replace the tweeters, too, and if so, what do you go with? Thanks
 

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