- Thread starter
- #141
Could just the differences in brands of tire also, some 35’s are 34 inches tall and some are 35. Maybe I’ll try to shoe horn one of these Goodyear 35’s under it and see if it fits!
Builds Kreiten Build thread! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kreiten
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I cut a couple pieces off the rearmost crossmember and off the back of the forward crossmember to get my spare raised up underneath. Then, similar to what we did on the 80's as a spare tire lift, I raised it up underneath. I was going to raise it up again since I now have a little more space. Not sure if this will help, but possibly. I can send another photo but I think it will be obvious what I removed when you look.
Ultimately, the tire must still fit between the those two crossmembers, however if you are just a sliver away from fitting, I would grind just a little off the back of the receiver slot as it protrudes from the crossmember (EDIT: and clear the panhard bar). Maybe another 1/4" without compromising that weld
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- Thread starter
- #143
I’ll try to fit one and see how close it is, thanks for the tips, might be able to make it work thanksI cut a couple pieces off the rearmost crossmember and off the back of the forward crossmember to get my spare raised up underneath. Then, similar to what we did on the 80's as a spare tire lift, I raised it up underneath. I was going to raise it up again since I now have a little more space. Not sure if this will help, but possibly. I can send another photo but I think it will be obvious what I removed when you look.
View attachment 2646259
Ultimately, the tire must still fit between the those two crossmembers, however if you are just a sliver away from fitting, I would grind just a little off the back of the receiver slot as it protrudes from the crossmember. Maybe another 1/4" without compromising that weld
- Thread starter
- #144
Got the front Timbren bumpstops in today, I'll get the rear one's installed next week and then gonna hit some tracks and see if and where it rubs. On the street it does not rub at all, clears the KDSS bar by about half an inch at full crank so no need for the KDSS relocation kit to be installed.
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Tires look great! Have you noticed a drop in power and handling with the 35”s? I’m surprised you’re not getting rub on the KDSS. I miss the way my 200 looked with 35”s, just seemed to struggle a bit with them and was concerned it could effect longevity of components. Not sure how true that is.
- Thread starter
- #146
Thanks! The zero offset on the Method wheels is the key to not hitting the KDSS bar, it's more like a Tundra front end swap as to where the wheel/tire ends up sitting in the wheel well. I noticed a difference when I went from stock to the 34's, but so far have not noticed any difference around town with the 35's over the 34's. I'm sure anytime ya add some un-sprung weight I think items will wear a little faster, but time will tell. I have been rocking the 34's for over 5 years now and absolutely beating on this rig and no real issues yet.
What a cool thread! Loving your truck so far. Hoping to get my gray 200 in a similar place before too long. Thanks for the inspo!
- Thread starter
- #148
thanks for the props!!!
Are the timbren stops different for the two positions?
Curious how much travel that will limit but that should do the trick to keep the tires off the fenders. There are others trying the strategy of body lifts to maintain full travel with aggressive offset. With the stock body setup, it would take +35 to stuff and even that will have the tires just kissing the fender liners.
The 18” Method wheels I had previously ran 35” but were a +18 offset. I’m running 17” +25 offset Icons and could probably get away with .75 boras. BMC and a little trimming was done, so I’m good there. Never used boras.
- Thread starter
- #151
So in the box for the front you get one of each of the items in my pic, so they are the same for all 4 front positions. You can add the spacers to limit travel a little more if need be and then also add the shims(guessing to adjust so it hits as flat as possible when compressed). In the above photo I had not added the spacer, I decided to add it after that photo was taking and then will remove it if I don't need it after I wheel it and test it all out. This is all experimental at this point as I could not find anyone else running zero offset wheels with 35's, but initial results are great as of yet I have no rubbing at all. Excited to get the TJM bumper on and the rear bump stops!
- Thread starter
- #152
The great news is if you got it down to in the ballpark of zero offset total you pull away from the KDSS bar etc... The bad news is that you have to def do the bodymount chop and deal with all the plastic in the front of the front fender(hence why I ordered the TJM bumper). For me the stretch to 35's is something I have always wanted to do and so far this recipe is working out really well for me!
The body mount chop is pretty much a requirement for any full size 35" regardless of offset. I'm on the other end of the spectrum with +35 offset and still needed the chop. It's also probably the tightest within the bodylines the tire can be as it'll start interfering with the UCA (and KDSS on the LC). The benefit of the tight offset fitment is that the tires are just stuffable within the fenders with full travel.
For 12.5” wide, yes. No BMC needed at 35x11” at 35mm offset.
afgman786
SILVER Star
You're giving me hope of not needing to do that!
- Thread starter
- #156
More than one way to skin a cat and get 35's on these rigs, that's forsure, and the recipe will change from the LC to the LX due to the KDSS bar. Most of the guys who set the standard for large tires on the 200 series that I know way back in 2015 never did the body mount chop. @Willy beamin was the first 200 I saw on 35's, no body mount chop, rock warrior wheels with 50mm offset wrapped in 35x12.50's with Timbren bumpstops. I think later on he may have added some small wheel spacers to the front but still no body mount chop and that guy has been on 35's the entire time, and wheels it! I agree 35mm offset on these rigs and the 100's is a great compromise, but I like always pushing they envelope
- Thread starter
- #157
My guess would be with 35mm offset even if ya run a 35x11 you will need the Slee KDSS relo kit. If you run an LC
afgman786
SILVER Star
I believe I'm at a +18 offset. RW and 1.25" spacer. If the KDSS is only from turning hard I can avoid that. I just don't want to push the alignment too far forward and risk CV snaps.
Haven't pulled the trigger on the tires yet but I know they're happening soon now that I don't have MTs.
Sorry I didn’t specify, I’m in an LX570. No kdss to worry about, so can run more positive offset. 275/80r18, no poke.
Totally agree lots of ways to skin a cat. Glad we're discovering more ways to do it too as I think the cruisers wear 35s well. And performs even better. Smaller body Tacoma's, 4Rs, and GXs have figured out the recipe to do it all day long. Frankly we've been too conservative collectively with tire sizes, especially when tires are the single most beneficial upgrade.
While there are multiple says to do it, it's also good to understand some compromises. We've known for awhile that pulling wheels forward with the UCA can be done to an extent, with a threshold that then potentially risks CVs. We're seeing more aggressive droop travel suspensions, that may risks CVs, potentially even more when pulling alignment forward. Offsets help with KDSS, but then it create fender clearance issues, necessitating limiting of travel. Or geometry trades. I think mild body mount lifts may be more prolific soon as that's always been an ingredient to the big tires, seldom used on 200s. Narrows work to avoid clearance issues, but trade some access to full size floatation sizes that tend to be the most aggressive tire with their own benefits. Then even more extreme with bracket lifts from several members.
Great to see it all, including your build @kreiten , as it continues to be an exciting time for cruisers.
While there are multiple says to do it, it's also good to understand some compromises. We've known for awhile that pulling wheels forward with the UCA can be done to an extent, with a threshold that then potentially risks CVs. We're seeing more aggressive droop travel suspensions, that may risks CVs, potentially even more when pulling alignment forward. Offsets help with KDSS, but then it create fender clearance issues, necessitating limiting of travel. Or geometry trades. I think mild body mount lifts may be more prolific soon as that's always been an ingredient to the big tires, seldom used on 200s. Narrows work to avoid clearance issues, but trade some access to full size floatation sizes that tend to be the most aggressive tire with their own benefits. Then even more extreme with bracket lifts from several members.
Great to see it all, including your build @kreiten , as it continues to be an exciting time for cruisers.
