- Thread starter
- #21
I'll get it downloaded for sure.
Thanks
Knuckle rebuild?
- Thread starter Hoosier RC
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Thanks
- Thread starter
- #22
Make sense to me as well. Will do.
Many moons ago, the early mudders, the pioneer mudders, the Neanderthal mudders, and our ancestral mud brethren used to say that a front axle rebuild will make you one with your Cruiser. So go, grasshopper, and learn of knuckles, grease, shims, bearings, gaskets, seals, and cone washers.
- Thread starter
- #24
I didn't understand it when I was a child but it all makes sense now. My father revealed my future when I was just a child when he called me knuckle head.
A great start is a pair of horseshoe ring pliers - they also work for a lot of other applications. Far easier to work on hubs if you have the right tool. US made Wilde - excellent quality at a reasonable cost -
https://www.amazon.com/Wilde-Tool-Pliers-Polished-Finish/dp/B00HRY1V96?th=1
Or, top line quality you cannot beat - Knipex is second to none -
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-45101...IMw&psc=1&refRID=ZAEB450GWWRR9F605MNY#nav-top
Sarge
https://www.amazon.com/Wilde-Tool-Pliers-Polished-Finish/dp/B00HRY1V96?th=1
Or, top line quality you cannot beat - Knipex is second to none -
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-45101...IMw&psc=1&refRID=ZAEB450GWWRR9F605MNY#nav-top
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #27
Checked both pliers on amazon and will get one ordered. I like the reasonable cost factor.
Thanks
Thanks
For the money - you'll be surprised at Wilde's quality , very well made. If you ever need pin punches or especially roll pin punches - Home Depot sells some nice sets made directly by Wilde - very high quality tools.
Sarge
Sarge
For reference. If it helps, I redid front end the first time in about a week. This was because thehub bolts were stuck and I had to get tools/make tools ETC. I had to rebuild one hub because I thought a peice of metal might be stuck in there. That only took me about 4 hours. Also don't mix greeses and use a brass drift 
iptman
SILVER Star
Here a good series of videos on rebuilding a Toyota front axle. It's on a 60 series so obviously there's differences but it'll give you a good idea what's in store for you.
Knuckle Rebuild Video Series
I just rebuilt my axle last week only 3000 miles after doing it the first time. I didn't use the axle centering tool correctly and was leaking gear oil from the diff in to the knuckle. Hard lesson the learn but I think I got right with @OTRAMM 's video.
Knuckle Rebuild Video Series
I just rebuilt my axle last week only 3000 miles after doing it the first time. I didn't use the axle centering tool correctly and was leaking gear oil from the diff in to the knuckle. Hard lesson the learn but I think I got right with @OTRAMM 's video.
Also don't mix greeses and use a brass drift
What do you mean by don’t mix grease? Wheel bearing grease and knuckle grease are different as far as I thought. Moly grease is too slick for wheel bearings. The bearings would slip and flat spot is what I read. Or are you saying (don’t mix them up)?
- Thread starter
- #33
Will do. Been reading the importance of keeping shims in right order.
- Thread starter
- #34
For reference. If it helps, I redid front end the first time in about a week. This was because thehub bolts were stuck and I had to get tools/make tools ETC. I had to rebuild one hub because I thought a peice of metal might be stuck in there. That only took me about 4 hours. Also don't mix greeses and use a brass drift
I just watched the video and saw him using the brass drift. Other videos I watched guys usually tap on side to pop out the cone washers. Looks like the brass drift is best so as not to damage anything.
Greases?
Read somewhere about 2 types of grease.
#2 high temp wheel bearing grease for repacking wheel bearings and
#2 moly fortified grease for repacking birf joints and knuckle housing and bearings.
Sound right? Any other recommendations? Are those greases available at any auto parts store?
- Thread starter
- #35
Some videos I've watched say nothing about using an axle centering tool. What's that all about? Are they just putting shims back in and calling it good? As I indicated in earlier post this will be my first rebuild. Is the majority advice use the centering tool?
Just reread some previous posts about shims and centering tool. Looks like if I keep track of shims I should be okay.?
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iptman
SILVER Star
It all depends on if a previous owner rebuilt and messed with the shims and didn't do it correctly. Our local club owns the centering tool and an electronic caliper so taking the additional 45 minutes to check was a no brainer.
iptman
SILVER Star
Lots of threads on types of grease. Do a search and you'll find a myriad of options but you pretty much got it right. I use Valvoline Palladium (3% moly) in the knuckles and Valvoline Full Syn (W985) for the wheel bearings. The latter is a NLGI #2 lithium grease that's "fortified" with moly so I figure it'll be compatible with whats in the knuckles for when they inevitably mix. Both can be had or ordered from any Napa.
- Thread starter
- #38
Sounds good. Thanks for the reassurance.
Parts are ordered so getting anxious to get at it.
- Thread starter
- #39
Been a while since I've been on forum but did complete the knuckle rebuild. It all went pretty well. Couple times I wasn't sure about how something went back together but figured it out and it's all back together. I've included a couple pictures. One of the complete strip down of the knuckle and the other just a picture of the fj. I'm ready to move on to the next part of my education which will be a install of 4 speed transmission under my brother-in-laws direction. I'll start a different thread for that.
