Knuckle Rebuild Kit: This 1 or that 1?

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Just to confirm ALL of our knuckle rebuild kits are per front axle, i.e. they cover both sides. If you only need to do one side, we have individual parts. Our wheel bearing kits are sold per side as that has been a popular demand.

As noted we are out of 80 Series kits but we are expecting them in a week to 10 days. I should have updated info on that tomorrow or Wednesday AM and once we have firm ETA on them arriving, we will start taking orders and prepping shipments. Thanks for the patience :cool:

If you add wheel and knuckle bearings to that kit how much are we talking?

I was also going to do the birf swap at the same time unless someone has a good contact for rebuilds that don't send me to the poor house, factory replacements are over my budget for sure
 
If you add wheel and knuckle bearings to that kit how much are we talking?

All of our axle kit pricing is current on the website:
http://cruiseroutfitters.com/lockers.html

All of our knuckle rebuild kits include Koyo knuckle bearings, no reason to call it a knuckle rebuild kit if your not doing at least the knuckle bearings :D

We also offer the kits with Timken OR Koyo bearings:

With Timken Wheel Bearings - $185.00
(Fits 90'-97' FJ/FZJ80 & LX450)
Part# FA9097TWB

With Koyo Wheel Bearings - $205.00
(Fits 90'-97' FJ/FZJ80 & LX450)
Part# FA9097KWB
 
....Just to confirm ALL of our knuckle rebuild kits are per front axle, i.e. they cover both sides.....

Both sides....

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Marlin Seals

The inner axle seal failure has a lot to do with proper installation and how straight your splines are. Toyota manual recommends to measure the alignment. Marlin seals that I have on mine have not failed and I am on the 10k mark already. There are plenty of issues that can come up with the rigs that cruiser head have and do not blame the company for making bad products. Marlin crawler has been around and proven true time and time again.:crybaby::bang::cheers:
 
The inner axle seal failure has a lot to do with proper installation and how straight your splines are. Toyota manual recommends to measure the alignment. Marlin seals that I have on mine have not failed and I am on the 10k mark already. There are plenty of issues that can come up with the rigs that cruiser head have and do not blame the company for making bad products. Marlin crawler has been around and proven true time and time again.:crybaby::bang::cheers:

You're on of the very few. I use Marlin seals for my front axle, transmission output, and both t case outputs on my crawler and they are great. Not so much on the 80.
 
The inner axle seal failure has a lot to do with proper installation and how straight your splines are. Toyota manual recommends to measure the alignment. Marlin seals that I have on mine have not failed and I am on the 10k mark already. There are plenty of issues that can come up with the rigs that cruiser head have and do not blame the company for making bad products. Marlin crawler has been around and proven true time and time again.:crybaby::bang::cheers:

Um yeah, unfortunately even Marlin says not to use them on the 80 so....
 
Um yeah, unfortunately even Marlin says not to use them on the 80 so....

Guess he didn't read the rest of this thread.:censor::doh:
:flipoff2:
 
Any idea what and OEM kit from Cdan goes for? Front axel rebuild Is on the list for next month. CO has a great rep and the price seems to be great. I am a sucker for OEM equipment though. Plus Cdan has been great to work with this far.
 
Yeah...he quoted me around $240 to the door in So. Cal. with Koyo bearings (that's both sides, front axle).
 
Yeah...he quoted me around $240 to the door in So. Cal. with Koyo bearings (that's both sides, front axle).

Correction..."The mud price after the discount is $256.94 plus the ride on The brown Truck. Your friendly local Toyota dealer will want almost 440 bucks for the exact same stuff"(C-DAN).
 
I didn't get the message on the Marlin seals either, so mine are going on 4 years and over 20K miles with no problems either. It is just a seal and not the space shuttle, so it is hard to see how there would be a big difference in performance as long as you don't F them up when installing them. What is so special about seals that would make this difference and why do some people have no problems?
 
I didn't get the message on the Marlin seals either, so mine are going on 4 years and over 20K miles with no problems either. It is just a seal and not the space shuttle, so it is hard to see how there would be a big difference in performance as long as you don't F them up when installing them. What is so special about seals that would make this difference and why do some people have no problems?

The rigidity/shape of the lip & the spring. OEM is an actual spring type & the Marlin is more like a wire. Some get lucky w/them, most don't(on 80's).
 
Why would anyone sell a knuckle "kit" for one side?

So much confusion spread on this thread.

Kurt's Kit is for both sides; all it would have taken was an email or call to Kurt to start this thread out on the right foot.
 
Why would anyone sell a knuckle "kit" for one side?

So much confusion spread on this thread.

Kurt's Kit is for both sides; all it would have taken was an email or call to Kurt to start this thread out on the right foot.

now all I'm trying to figure out is how much to toss in an extra axle seal in case I muck one up and add wheel bearings, seems like if you're going to have it all torn down anyway you might as well do wheel bearings too, no?
 
The rigidity/shape of the lip & the spring. OEM is an actual spring type & the Marlin is more like a wire. Some get lucky w/them, most don't(on 80's).

They are both springs that have different shapes. I have never hear of anyone that examined a "failed" seal to see why. It is more likely that some people F them up during installation and some don't. If you pop the spring out during installation, no matter what type of spring, it won't seal right. To prevent this possibility during installation, pack the back side of the seal with wheel bearing grease.
 
It certainly never hurts to have a couple spares around. I have a few OEM ones and a few of Marlin's.

I tend to agree with you on the wheel bearings as well. Might as well do 'em since everything else is new. The old one's are probably fine, but if you don't change 'em you'll be constantly thinking about 'em. :hhmm:

I'll throw another question out there: Thoughts on swapping the spindles? From my observations, the 80 spindles tend to show a bit of wear on the bottoms due to the weight of the truck and possibly (?) the full time 4wd.

now all I'm trying to figure out is how much to toss in an extra axle seal in case I muck one up and add wheel bearings, seems like if you're going to have it all torn down anyway you might as well do wheel bearings too, no?
 
Def going to do the right to left birf swap while I'm in it, I just want to cover everything while it's gutted rather than wishing I had later down the road.
 

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