KISS Drawers (Keep It Simple Storage) for 200s (1 Viewer)

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These drawers are at the top of the drawer section on my ridiculously huge spreadsheet of to-do mods. I love everything about them, especially the customization aspect, but the only concern I have with them is the 100lb drawer weight limitation. What is the limiting factor for that, and is it possible in the customization process to beef them up to be able to handle more? Also, has anyone had issues because of overloading the drawers?
The 100lbs is more of a usability than a structural limitation- When I fill mine with tools, jack, recovery gear, compressor and all the bags it is about 80 lbs and it's not like something is nearing a limit - it just gets too much of a PITA to pull that much on the slides while reaching over your tailgate without risking a back injury. Other than chains (real, not cable- which I put under the wings) I'm wondering what do you want to put in there that is going north of 100lbs?!?

To answer the second part of that question of whether you can beef them up - sure, the Reef (and KISS Drawers) have always been claimed to be "the starting point for your custom storage system" - that's one big reason they are built of super-user-mod-friendly plywood, so anyone can work on them. If you want to email me your sketches and ideas for thoughts on mods please feel free, many people do and it's always fun to see how they're being used!
 
The 100lbs is more of a usability than a structural limitation- When I fill mine with tools, jack, recovery gear, compressor and all the bags it is about 80 lbs and it's not like something is nearing a limit - it just gets too much of a PITA to pull that much on the slides while reaching over your tailgate without risking a back injury. Other than chains (real, not cable- which I put under the wings) I'm wondering what do you want to put in there that is going north of 100lbs?!?

To answer the second part of that question of whether you can beef them up - sure, the Reef (and KISS Drawers) have always been claimed to be "the starting point for your custom storage system" - that's one big reason they are built of super-user-mod-friendly plywood, so anyone can work on them. If you want to email me your sketches and ideas for thoughts on mods please feel free, many people do and it's always fun to see how they're being used!

Thank you! I don’t have a specific load in mind, it is more a matter of doing cocktail napkin level math and realizing that it would not take much for me to go over 100 lbs. The reasoning you provided makes a lot of sense, and having that kind of limit will hopefully help me apply some thought to the load, rather than my normal method of saying “I have room, I will just toss it in, you never know.” When I reach the drawers point in my gradual build, will be sure to send you any mods I come up with. Since I have had Budbuilt sliders sitting in my garage for two months waiting to be installed, I am clearly making gradual into a science.
 
It seems like full length top rails with HDPE slides (same as the bottom, but inverted) would make for a smoother slide and provide additional support for heavier loads that might tip the far end up as you slide in or out. Not sure what that'd do to cost though...
 
Good suggestion. I have had some problems with the HDPE slides "kinking" when the drawer is a little past halfway out. Tried putting more nails in, but still looking for a better solution. Really like my KISS drawers even though.
 
cruzerDave is there a way to retrofit the previous generation drawers with the new slide system? Or is the sizing different? My prior generation drawers have become fairly hard to move. Thanks.

Good suggestion. I have had some problems with the HDPE slides "kinking" when the drawer is a little past halfway out. Tried putting more nails in, but still looking for a better solution. Really like my KISS drawers even though.
I have found a fix for the "kinking" that I had with my KISS drawers. My drawers were made and designed well but it turns out that there is not a lot of support under the drawers to keep the frame, track and aluminum guides square. Also if you do some off road bouncing around, the nails that hold the slides in place can get loose because I am sure I had the drawers over loaded. Installing some small blocks in two places as support along the left and right aluminum guide. One mid way and the other close to the front on each side and a stack of door frame shims under the center alum guide because I have not gone back and removed the drawers to fit the blocks and cut carpet for two 1 inch blocks mid way and at the front of the center support.

I also squared the drawers again to be sure an pulled the HDPE tarckes off and resecured them a 1/4 in fwd and the other side a 1/4 inch back so the are easyer to install staggered, I then added a 1/4 x1 1/2 flat trim that I planed down another 1/16 " then screwed in place every 4 inches. this support piece ran the length of the drawer above and against the HDPE to give the nails more support. I have another PM fix that I haven't gotten to yet but includes more support under each drawer when bouncing don the road the drawers will be supported by blocks not just the tracks.

Every thing I have done so far is just a quick fix to see if found the answer. So far I am on the right path. The Left drawer now slides loaded, back and fourth just like on the work bench.

Any one can send me a PM for more details and when my son gets out of quarentine, he can help me take some pictures and post my fixes. I can't respond right away because I will be at work during the day because our store falls under the necessity store that sells guns and ammo, and generators.

I especially want to thank cruiserdave for making a quality DIY drawer like these that we can finish and adjust and tweak ourselves.
 
Just a quick note that the new version of the drawers doesn't have any nails. Everything is bolted together, into extruded aluminum channels (including the hdpe slide material).
 
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I have found a fix for the "kinking" that I had with my KISS drawers. My drawers were made and designed well but it turns out that there is not a lot of support under the drawers to keep the frame, track and aluminum guides square. Also if you do some off road bouncing around, the nails that hold the slides in place can get loose because I am sure I had the drawers over loaded. Installing some small blocks in two places as support along the left and right aluminum guide. One mid way and the other close to the front on each side and a stack of door frame shims under the center alum guide because I have not gone back and removed the drawers to fit the blocks and cut carpet for two 1 inch blocks mid way and at the front of the center support.

I also squared the drawers again to be sure an pulled the HDPE tarckes off and resecured them a 1/4 in fwd and the other side a 1/4 inch back so the are easyer to install staggered, I then added a 1/4 x1 1/2 flat trim that I planed down another 1/16 " then screwed in place every 4 inches. this support piece ran the length of the drawer above and against the HDPE to give the nails more support. I have another PM fix that I haven't gotten to yet but includes more support under each drawer when bouncing don the road the drawers will be supported by blocks not just the tracks.

Every thing I have done so far is just a quick fix to see if found the answer. So far I am on the right path. The Left drawer now slides loaded, back and fourth just like on the work bench.

Any one can send me a PM for more details and when my son gets out of quarentine, he can help me take some pictures and post my fixes. I can't respond right away because I will be at work during the day because our store falls under the necessity store that sells guns and ammo, and generators.

I especially want to thank cruiserdave for making a quality DIY drawer like these that we can finish and adjust and tweak ourselves.
Interesting, had not heard of loosening like you describe, but sounds like you handled it which makes me smile - never claimed to be a genius cabinet maker or drawer mfg'r just sorta fell into this and figured leaving things so peopel could tweak themselves would be a good idea - nice to hear of your ingenuity ;)

And not to diss the KISS system, because I really liked it and was happy for years, but it did have great chance for fiddliness which was one of the reasons I changed for the Reef. That and reduced cost enough to allow me to hire someone to help out which was a deal-breaker otherwise. KISS took over my garage and life and that's not fun.
Just a quick note that the new version of the drawers doesn't have any nails. Everything is bolted together, into extruded aluminum channels (including the hdpe slide material).
YEP! Still won't be as slick as rollerball metal slides at full extension, but they give you more storage space(!), less cost, and easier to modify. Everything's a compromise ;)
 
@cruzerDave! My sandbar order arrived arrived today. They are spectacular. Couldn't wait, so I immediately installed them. I know.. the screws aren't lined up. Haven't decide how I want to finish them. Will fix later.

sandbar1.jpeg
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Both sandbars fully extended. I'm not sure how far they can come out and still be supported by the 80/20 shelves. I likely won't go further than the edge of the of the tailgate. The picture above shows they can go out past the tailgate. But the picture below shows how much the edge is left in the 80/20 channel.

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With some modification, the sandbar could be top mounted.

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Sandbar can also be used as an external table.. but you gotta bring your own table legs..

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This is an portable Timber Lodge mesh table I picked up from Costco years ago. Collapses down pretty small.

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I installed two Reef anchor plates. They attach to the bottom with 10 small wood screws and then two longer bolts replace the bolts for the 3rd-row seat anchors in the floor. It takes some patience to get everything lined up. If I ever end up needing to take the drawers in and out to reinstall the 3rd row I would switch to the Reef anchor straps instead.
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I am looking forward to ordering the sandbar once the 200 wing kit is available.
 
I installed two Reef anchor plates. They attach to the bottom with 10 small wood screws and then two longer bolts replace the bolts for the 3rd-row seat anchors in the floor. It takes some patience to get everything lined up. If I ever end up needing to take the drawers in and out to reinstall the 3rd row I would switch to the Reef anchor straps instead.
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I am looking forward to ordering the sandbar once the 200 wing kit is available.
Thanks for posting these pics as I have not been able to order these anchor plates from @cruzerDave. Now I can see what's involved with the parts and install. This should be pretty easy to fabricate on my own by sourcing parts from a local big box store.

Also waiting on the LC 200 wing kits....tempted to get the universal ones since they are available and cut accordingly to fit our 200's.
 
Thanks for posting these pics as I have not been able to order these anchor plates from @cruzerDave. Now I can see what's involved with the parts and install. This should be pretty easy to fabricate on my own by sourcing parts from a local big box store.

Also waiting on the LC 200 wing kits....tempted to get the universal ones since they are available and cut accordingly to fit our 200's.

I've got the 200 wing kits on their way to me among other things and will be testing final fit. If all goes well, they should be available relatively soon. My setup will consist of 2 Reef's, 1 Sand bar, 1 Mayday, 2 anchor kits and 2 wing kits. Very excited to see how the initial cut for the 200 wing kits turn out.
 
@gt1701gst is there a reason why your hdpe strips are so.. wavy? mine installed pretty flush. Just wondering if your method helps with some of the sliding friction?
 
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I had the same question, mine are flat as well.
 
I installed two Reef anchor plates. They attach to the bottom with 10 small wood screws and then two longer bolts replace the bolts for the 3rd-row seat anchors in the floor. It takes some patience to get everything lined up. If I ever end up needing to take the drawers in and out to reinstall the 3rd row I would switch to the Reef anchor straps instead.
View attachment 2283147

View attachment 2283149

I am looking forward to ordering the sandbar once the 200 wing kit is available.
I wonder if those are meant to be installed with the OEM seat catch bars removed. Your top pic seems to show some contact with the metal mount strap and the OEM seat catch.
 
I installed two Reef anchor plates. They attach to the bottom with 10 small wood screws and then two longer bolts replace the bolts for the 3rd-row seat anchors in the floor. It takes some patience to get everything lined up. If I ever end up needing to take the drawers in and out to reinstall the 3rd row I would switch to the Reef anchor straps instead.
View attachment 2283147

View attachment 2283149

I am looking forward to ordering the sandbar once the 200 wing kit is available.
I would consider replacing those wood screws with some T-nuts and bolts. I don't think it would take much to rip those screws right out.
 
@gt1701gst is there a reason why your hdpe strips are so.. wavy? mine installed pretty flush. Just wondering if your method helps with some of the sliding friction?
I think I just overtightened the screws causing them to bow. I plan to reinstall them to be flat. Thanks for pointing it out.
 
I would consider replacing those wood screws with some T-nuts and bolts. I don't think it would take much to rip those screws right out.
They felt pretty solid to me, I lifted the drawers by them. These anchors will keep them from moving on rough trails. In a rollover with loaded drawers, yes they could fail. That why I kept the included tie-down strap installed. Dave recommends his Reef anchor ratchet straps for maximum security but those do take up a little more space on sides. It is nice to have options and these are pretty good for a universal modular system.
 
I wonder if those are meant to be installed with the OEM seat catch bars removed. Your top pic seems to show some contact with the metal mount strap and the OEM seat catch.

I considered removing them but there is a spacer under the metal plate and the bolt was tight and bottomed out. If the plate warped or started to bend at all I was going to remove them but didn't need to.
 
I considered removing them but there is a spacer under the metal plate and the bolt was tight and bottomed out. If the plate warped or started to bend at all I was going to remove them but didn't need to.
I picked up some 2" wide aluminum and started fabricating my own anchors today since can't get them from Land Shark lately. Need to remove four of the factory bolts. Noticed one was hard to get a socket on it. Pulled back carpet and padding and there is a HVAC duct that needed a little nudge to get the socket on it.

Went to hardware store and picked up 4 longer bolts. From feedback above, thought I would use some spare 80/20 parts to secure the wood frame to the aluminum but the screws are too short so will source some longer ones.

BTW - the aluminum plate(s) sit flush on those OEM seat catch bars, so no need to remove them.
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