Nice - just ordered. I'll probably go from the 34's that I'm running now to a 35 on the next tire refresh...so may as well start preparing now.
KDSS Max Relocation Kit + End link LCA skids
- Thread starter rlynch356
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Would you be willing to sell just the lower skids and I'll work on getting my own spacers and hardware? I can buy a set of sway bar links and just cut them and use the bolt portion as a spacer and it would be a "bushed" spacer if that makes sense.Couple of answers.. Or Observations from other customers.
The full kit has been installed on a Non-KDSS 200 series in Japan, which as I understand it uses the all the same mounts for a regular Anti-Roll bar as the KDSS version. He did end up removing the LCA skids, since he decided to run a 12.5" tire on (imported to Japan) Rock warriors (ET50) with no lift. RW's were never sold in Japan apparently, but I cannot confirm that. KDSS only came on the top versions of the 200 series.
So I know the system will work on NON-KDSS equipped LC200 trucks which are more common world wide.
So i see no real reason why it would not work both from a frame bracket and an LCA skid perspective.
*I am running a RW with a 285/75-17 tire and no spacer right now for most of my daily/overland uses purely from a range perspective, It clears but I still recommend less of an offset for the wheel. ~ET35 or less
For this one..
I have spoken to several people and it "Looks" like the tundra LCA uses the same bolt holes as the the 200/LX LCA.. I cannot confirm that yet but I was going to buy a set of Tundra LCA's and see if that plays out or if changes would be needed (if they are needed I would probably not move forward with it at this point unless there is a larger demand for it.. it's already a Niche product on a Niche Truck
the bracket will work on it's own as well.. the only cavat is the I am not selling the spacer separately, since this is a milled component as well.
there are options out there that you can make work, @linuxgod thread on it has all the parts he used.
@linuxgod yes you are exactly right,I took your suggestion and ran with it, Thank you
I'm glad to hear everything is working out with your setup, and it worked as designed at COTRockies
PM me if you would and We can discuss it. That way you have an idea it your set will work on a OEM LCA for a Tundra and offer it afterwards as an option.
Hey everyone. I have the 1.5 inch along with dissent skids.
The sway bar runs into the skid. What are people doing for this issue? My hunch is to cut squares into the skid to allow for the sway to fit.
The sway bar runs into the skid. What are people doing for this issue? My hunch is to cut squares into the skid to allow for the sway to fit.
My ASFIR skids clear it ok, but obviously different aftermarket skids will be formed differently.
Depending on the amount of interference you might be able to space down the skid slightly with a 1/4” thick washer. Obviously that reduces clearance slightly but if you only need to space down the front it’ll be negligible
Unfortunately, it looks like it would need at least a! Inch or inch and a half spacer.
Going to cut large holes into the front skid to allow for a little room of the sway bar
Going to cut large holes into the front skid to allow for a little room of the sway bar
Unfortunately, still hitting the skid plate. Does anyone have any recommendations on what I can do to help clear it?
- Thread starter
- #108
does that hit the full length of the swaybar or just at the edge?
trying to see where it is hitting in relation to the swayer placement..
For example here is my CBI skid plate.. (its off just to check a few things..and go to the dealer)
trying to see where it is hitting in relation to the swayer placement..
For example here is my CBI skid plate.. (its off just to check a few things..and go to the dealer)
I'm getting the car back from the shop tomorrow. He seemed to have trouble figuring out what to do so I'll take more pictures when I get it back hopefully tomorrow.
now that I have the car back, I think the fix is adding a spacer/aluminum bar to one of the skid plates to lower it slightly to clear the sway bar. I added some steel circular spacers in the interim until my raw aluminum bar comes into be fabricated into a more durable support bar between the skid plate and the body.
I think the underlying issue is that dissent skid plate was designed to be very close to the stock body to create more clearance.
I think the underlying issue is that dissent skid plate was designed to be very close to the stock body to create more clearance.
- Thread starter
- #112
Glad that worked out, That is tight...
I could offer a spacer bar for the Dissent skid plates, if I know the specs on it.
The same "may" be true with some others that I have not encountered yet as well.
I am hoping to see what people are bring to our local LC club Christmas party to check clearances on a few.
I could offer a spacer bar for the Dissent skid plates, if I know the specs on it.
The same "may" be true with some others that I have not encountered yet as well.
I am hoping to see what people are bring to our local LC club Christmas party to check clearances on a few.
- Thread starter
- #113
couple of updates..
I have a few kits in stock at the moment, I a new batch of kits is in process, I am doing 2 Tundra kits in this batch (1 already spoken for, so 1 available). Tundra LCA kits are going to be a contact me thing for the foreseeable future until i figure out the need for the..
So more on that later, I've removed the links since I am going to rebrand to a shorter name space.. just google Land Cruiser 200 KDSS Max
thanks
I have a few kits in stock at the moment, I a new batch of kits is in process, I am doing 2 Tundra kits in this batch (1 already spoken for, so 1 available). Tundra LCA kits are going to be a contact me thing for the foreseeable future until i figure out the need for the..
So more on that later, I've removed the links since I am going to rebrand to a shorter name space.. just google Land Cruiser 200 KDSS Max
thanks
Maybe I should have mentioned this before. First, I love my Anderson Max KDSS relocation kit! I was rushing trying to make it to COTRockies last year so I didn't even notice something at that time. Many here, especially @linuxgod knows all this and I appreciate all his help. I ran into an issue and had to cut several holes in my frame in order to install this kit. 
But the part I wanted to focus on here is something I found the second time I had to drop my Slee steel skid plate system or at least the front portion. No wonder it was so difficult to install. The lip that's bent up maybe half an inch was hitting the sway bar. I quickly did a poor notch job but this made it much easier to reinstall the skid plate. I can add a photo later if it would be helpful to anyone.
But the part I wanted to focus on here is something I found the second time I had to drop my Slee steel skid plate system or at least the front portion. No wonder it was so difficult to install. The lip that's bent up maybe half an inch was hitting the sway bar. I quickly did a poor notch job but this made it much easier to reinstall the skid plate. I can add a photo later if it would be helpful to anyone.
Photo please, I've been considering replacing my Asfir skids with the Slee ones before cruisemoab, so presumably I'd hit this issue as well...Maybe I should have mentioned this before. First, I love my Anderson Max KDSS relocation kit! I was rushing trying to make it to COTRockies last year so I didn't even notice something at that time. Many here, especially @linuxgod knows all this and I appreciate all his help. I ran into an issue and had to cut several holes in my frame in order to install this kit.
But the part I wanted to focus on here is something I found the second time I had to drop my Slee steel skid plate system or at least the front portion. No wonder it was so difficult to install. The lip that's bent up maybe half an inch was hitting the sway bar. I quickly did a poor notch job but this made it much easier to reinstall the skid plate. I can add a photo later if it would be helpful to anyone.
- Thread starter
- #116
Yes please, I am trying to gather the different combo's of bumpers, wheels, tires, skids, etc for people to know exactly what they need to do. And the other Mod's you made.. I have seen crash bars cut for clearance with the 1.5" kit, which was the driver behind offering the 1" kit for stock bumpers and recommending that for that situation (not to mention that i am not going to recommend cutting an OEM safety structure for obvious reasons). Thank you
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TYVM. Annoying but grinding the edges off is not terrible. It might be possible to space it down at the radiator mount as well…
- Thread starter
- #119
Thank you - did the Slee Skid only need to be cut on the one side? I didn't realize it was so "turned up" so much - my CBI is as well but apparently not that much, I did not have to cut mine with a 1.5" bracket.
You did mention it was bent as well, Correct?
In other KDSS Kit news..
I have another batch in process, including 1 Available Tundra swapped 200 Long Arm set.. I am super confident on the fit will be basically the same but another kit is going to a test truck as well... so the other one will be available soon after.. And then it will be a regular production part (probably in small quantities unless there is a demand for more, let me know, I am happy to adjust)
The kit price will go up overall, because materials basically doubled again.. I am paying 3+x more now than when I did the first set in Nov 24', always American made from the same supplier. Labor, Same story.
At this point it is what it is, I have to adjust.
New product news.
I am hopefully in the final stages of a set of rear hatch cover plates that directly replace the factory carpeted ones but are A) Aluminum and B) strong enough to stand on.
Sounds kind of boring, but they turn your tail gate into a table you can actually use with no modifications (move the latches from the stock ones to these and stick your carpeted ones in the garage. You can use a stove on them, they don't rattle, and the install is 2 - 8mm nuts to undo and then the are latches swapped over, maybe 5 minutes or so total install time. Nothing permanent, no cutting, etc.. You can use the Gamaviti tail gate bags (perfect!!), your factory stuff fits or whatever.
Right now, I am leaning towards NOT doing any coating on them (just brushed finish), so you can use them a food prep surface OR if you want powder coat them to match your interior color. Powder coat and food prep do not go together. Maybe a hard anodize would work but color becomes an issue (black is the go to, which of course will not match beige interiors IMHO)
Fully Aluminum construction, bullet proof, stand on it to access the roof, and cleanable for food prep.
Anyway, coming soon-ish after the next rev.
FYI... The Company name will be changing soon... just an FYI... I'll update on that later... the big G, didn't like the work I did for the Dakar rally teams engine management.
So, no more selling 8-bit Hex code on chips as part of my normal business. that stuff will be sold to a specialized company..
You did mention it was bent as well, Correct?
In other KDSS Kit news..
I have another batch in process, including 1 Available Tundra swapped 200 Long Arm set.. I am super confident on the fit will be basically the same but another kit is going to a test truck as well... so the other one will be available soon after.. And then it will be a regular production part (probably in small quantities unless there is a demand for more, let me know, I am happy to adjust)
The kit price will go up overall, because materials basically doubled again.. I am paying 3+x more now than when I did the first set in Nov 24', always American made from the same supplier. Labor, Same story.
At this point it is what it is, I have to adjust.
New product news.
I am hopefully in the final stages of a set of rear hatch cover plates that directly replace the factory carpeted ones but are A) Aluminum and B) strong enough to stand on.
Sounds kind of boring, but they turn your tail gate into a table you can actually use with no modifications (move the latches from the stock ones to these and stick your carpeted ones in the garage. You can use a stove on them, they don't rattle, and the install is 2 - 8mm nuts to undo and then the are latches swapped over, maybe 5 minutes or so total install time. Nothing permanent, no cutting, etc.. You can use the Gamaviti tail gate bags (perfect!!), your factory stuff fits or whatever.
Right now, I am leaning towards NOT doing any coating on them (just brushed finish), so you can use them a food prep surface OR if you want powder coat them to match your interior color. Powder coat and food prep do not go together. Maybe a hard anodize would work but color becomes an issue (black is the go to, which of course will not match beige interiors IMHO)
Fully Aluminum construction, bullet proof, stand on it to access the roof, and cleanable for food prep.
Anyway, coming soon-ish after the next rev.
FYI... The Company name will be changing soon... just an FYI... I'll update on that later... the big G, didn't like the work I did for the Dakar rally teams engine management.
So, no more selling 8-bit Hex code on chips as part of my normal business. that stuff will be sold to a specialized company..
Sorry I didn’t explain it well. It’s not bent. I was just trying to say that’s where it starts to bend upward.
Great looking tailgate panels! I might have to pick some up as my carpet gets worse.