Front Rotor Removal

[Jim_Chow]

Great link jahmaka.

Good article on Brake fluids too

Stoptech article on Brake fluid

the message here is this: it’s fine to upgrade from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 3 fluid B, but you should think twice (maybe even three times) before switching from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 4 fluid of any sort.​

Makes me question my decision to go with DOT 4 fluid. I probably should have gone with a Toyota DOT3 for assured compatibility especially given the expense of a new master.

Bleeding ABS systems (also from Stoptech) I recommended for anyone trying to "flush" their brake fluid. The 100's system seems likely to have a seperate ABS reservoir given the FSMs instructions on brake bleeding and the use of the Toyota Hand-held tester.

One co-worker of mine track races and told me dot 4 has a higher boiling point, but absorbs more water than a dot 3, so you need to flush more often (he added the water absorption isn't a problem here in AZ). I've been using Valvoline dot 4 in my Aisin FJ80 master cylinder for 5 yrs, flushed every 1.5 yrs. So far, so good.

As far as bleeding goes, the Lexus tech tells me you just need to hold down the brake pedal w/ ignition "on" to bleed the rears (pump will pump fluid out), but for the fronts, you can either use the Lexus/Toyota tester (or ABS SST) or pump the old-fashioned way. This seems logical since when the master fails, the fail-safe mode is zero brake pressure the rear and reduced pressure up front. It suggests the rear is completely dependent on the hydraulic pump while the front isn't. I haven't tried this yet to confirm it.

My local Lexus dealer doesn't sell/use Toyota dot 3 fluid. They use the cheapie Pyroil dot 3 (made by Valvoline) sold at PepBoys. Ditto for the Toyota dealer in town. So just because toyota flushes your brakes, don't assume they're using Toyota brand fluid. Ask first! I'm not even sure it's available here in the States. Has anyone bought any? This goes for ATF and coolant, too. I've heard of some toyota dealers using cheapie green for a radiator drain & fill! I sure wish Toyota sold that super-long life pre-mixed coolant they use at the factory.

 

[NMuzj100]

Thanks SNMuzj100!
Think I should flush the brake system? any tips? pump & refill????

I would flush the brake fluid since you've done most of the work already when you are bleeding. Very easy to do with an assistant.

- Key to "On". (engine need not be running)
- Assistant pumps a few times and then holds pedal down.
- Crack a bleeder (10mm box wrench) and fluid flows rapidly to the waiting jar.
- The fluid moves fast so keep the master above minimum.
- If you lose pressure close the bleeder and have the assistant pump/hold again.
- Right front, Left front, Right Rear, Left Rear.
- According to the FSM all four corners bleed the same.
- If you are going to remove a caliper to inspect or replace a pad crack the bleeder before removing the caliper as it can be much harder to turn them when the caliper is loose
- Bleeders are rated for 8ft/lbs torque. Don't over do it. Broken bleeders are common at repair shops.
- after bleeding use brake cleaner to spray fluid off the bleeder (this will make finding any leak later much easier)
- Take this chance to inspect the "rubber" portion of the brake lines
- Before filling the reservoir to "max" release pressure on the system.
- Key to "off" and pump pedal 40+ times until the stroke is lighter and longer.
- Then fill to "max" line.

Now to clear the ABS components you need to go find a road where you can activate the ABS a couple of times. this should mix the Fluid from the ABS channels with the rest of your fluid. This will not flush the old fluid totally out of the system but will ensure that the fluid in the critical ABS components is at least as good as the rest of the system.

The hard-core (not me) could then flush again to ensure the cleanest fluid possible.

Based on what I've read I would choose from the following fluids:
1. Toyota Brand DOT3 - Conservative choice for seal/master cylinder compatability - may be pricey/hard to find
2. Valvoline Synpower Dot4 - Higher performance at low price - readily available - should be fine $6/QT
3. ATE Super Blue Dot4 - Highest performance - $10/Liter - manufacturer says only needs flushed every three years - blue color makes flushing easy to see. (same as ATE Typ 200 only blue) - may have to order online

The guys at Toyota said to put never seize on the pins. I was gonna use white lithium grease.

Don't use White Lithium as it can't take the heat. Use the disc brake grease ($1 a packet stuff) as recommended by spressoman.

Are you happy with Revos?

Yes, no complaints. They take some of the fun out of winter driving though. No sliding around. Good tire for 90% road 10% trail.

While it is all apart you may want to consider lubing the spindle bushings as described by Christo in this thread. Vibration Thread

 

[spressomon]

RE: re-assembly

on p.22 of link from jahmaka it states:

"adjusting bearing preload is critical"

need clarification in laymans terms! seems important & don't want to screw this up!

http://8.7.96.35/tech_info/manuals_bbk/Land%20Cruiser_LX%20470%20Front%20Install%20Manual_98-858-1450_Rev%20B_05-18-04a.pdf

Toyota per the LC FSM uses a different method for settting the front wheel bearing pre-load...but here it is:

You will need a fish type scale with a hook on each end. Torque the first hub bearing adjusting nut to 43 ft lb, then turn the axle/hub several times to "settle down the bearings" (from the fresh grease), then loosen the adjusting nut until it can be rotated by hand. Then retighten the adjusting nut to 38-57 in lb.. Using the spring tension gauge measure the preload (at starting) to 9.5 - 15.0 ft lb. Note: You will install the 'hook' of the spring guage onto a wheel stud (probably the top stud) and apply tension at a 90 degree angle all the while measuring the start up tension at 9.5 - 15.0 ft lb. Install the second lock nut and torque to 47 ft lb. Then recheck your bearing preload with the spring guage. Note: Apply the spring guage in the direction of forward wheel travel.

FYI: I followed this when I did mine a couple months ago and this was the largest/highest amount of wheel bearing preload I have ever applied to a wheel bearing. But heh...who am I to argue!

 

[jahmaka]

No problem guys,i am here to please.You guys should try Mutal 600 brake fluid,i think it's the best out their,but it costly.About $15 per bottle.

 

[NMuzj100]

CruiserPaul2000 Finished in another thread ...

Mission accomplished!!

Thanks to all the guys who gave me feedback on rotor/hub removal!!! Every comment was appreciated & helpful. Ended up borrowing 54mm socket from local Lexus dealer. Nobody sells that large socket locally. I bought 2 1/8 industrial socket, but wasn't deep enough becuz of spindle. Anyway finally had time to work on it today & was able to complete the job!!

Question:

Do you guys usually pack extra grease in the hub beyond repacking the bearings???

Would like to get some service manuals, I found Sincity but not CDan? Are the manuals on CD on EBAY actual Toyota service manuals or aftermarket?? Any good??

I also took your advice to flush the system out to get some fresh blood in those lines. No problems!! Braking is awesome!

Stock 18 inch LC wheels look GREAT with Bridgestone Alenzas! What a difference in the ride!

Thanks again!!

Paul

P.S.
Anyone know what my 4- stock 16in wheels off 2000 LC
are worth??
If you know of anybody looking let me know!!!!

Note: One of my neighbors has a beefed up FJ40 (not sure what year) w/ lift kit & 36in super swampers- Think I'm gonna see if he'll sell it!

 

[kyoso23]

here

http://8.7.96.35/tech_info/manuals_...nstall Manual_98-858-1450_Rev B_05-18-04a.pdf

It'd be great if this link were rehosted. Anyone have it?

 

[jahmaka]

Here you go,It seems as if Stoptech redesign their website.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/m...nstall Manual_98-858-1450_Rev B_05-18-04a.pdf

 

[kyoso23]

You are my new best E-friend. Thanks, mang!

 

[jahmaka]

^^ no problem

 

[xumFJ40]

So this may seem like a stupid question....but.....

Can you use any standard fish scale from the local outfitters to measure the pre-load?

Are all standard fish scales measuring weight in Ft. Lbs...?

Thanks,

 

[spressomon]

So this may seem like a stupid question....but.....

Can you use any standard fish scale from the local outfitters to measure the pre-load?

Are all standard fish scales measuring weight in Ft. Lbs...?

Thanks,

That's what I use...

 

[jonah]

thanks for info as ill be doin a full brake job this weekend.
after firestone told me it will cost 1600 $
i got parts from my uncle at napa for under 300$
so beer and bandaids should be my only other cost

 

[spressomon]

thanks for info as ill be doin a full brake job this weekend.
after firestone told me it will cost 1600 $
i got parts from my uncle at napa for under 300$
so beer and bandaids should be my only other cost

You probably already know this but its a good idea while you're doing a brake job to replace the brake fluid. Generally you want to refresh brake fluid once per year or two on the outside.

 

[1loudLX]

i dont think my brake fluid has ever been changed......or my AHC. Hmmm

 

[spressomon]

i dont think my brake fluid has ever been changed......or my AHC. Hmmm

Brake fluid breaks down over time. I'm not a brake fluid expert by any measure but from what I have read heat and moisture accumulation will break brake fluid down over time effectively reducing its boiling point...which is bad of course due to the high amounts of heat generated when braking (especially panic type brake stops).

I think most professional mechanics recommend annual exchange which is probably a good idea for those of us that do a lot of off-roading and/or trailering.

 

[xumFJ40]

Hey Gang...

I got a little side tracked on this...but am ready to work on it now.

When I re-pack the bearings, and grease cavity in the front hubs, does the FSM discuss how much grease to use?

Do I just fill the cavity all the way around?

Thanks,

-R

 

[DMX84]

I wanted to add to this what I experienced and hopefully it will help someone.

The fish scale method is to prevent a wheel from being too loose or too tight (and peace of mind if you're not sure).

I couldn't achieve the desired reading with the fish scale.
There are just too many variables
First I only replaced the hub seal and not the dust shield around the ABS sensor. I suspect if you do both seals and keep them dry it would add drag. I put a light film of grease to the rubber seals on mine-again reducing frictional drag.

So in short, it's my opinion that you torque the inner to the proper spec. Like this (minus step 14 & 17) simply check that you can rotate it by hand and have no free play it should be good.
After I installed the outer nut, it barely got mine in spec.

To answer the question above ^ just fill the cavity level all the way around, don't pack the hub cavity completely full.
Hope this helps.

DMX

 

[Norcalfamily]

Old thread.
Anyone has the stoptech article they can email?
The link is broken. Thank you.

 

[Rick2000]

http://www.stoptech.com/docs/installation-manuals/98-858-1450-03

 

[aguzman610]

I changing out the front Rotors, Pads, and installing steel braided line (front only for now) how much DOT 3 fluid will I need?