Builds Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB

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In the meantime I did a little more wiring on the cruise control.

For the generic switch there are 4 wires that go to a plug. Then White to switched power Black to ground and the Blue and Gray to the rheostat dimmer to determine backlighting. Well... no rheostat on this early rig. A quick call to Rostra tech support and they recommend Black and Blue to ground and White and Gray to switched power. Easy...


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Pink wire at the control switch connects to the orange wire coming out of the servo but through a relay so I have to sort that out. Now waiting on USPS for some connectors from @cruiserbrett to make pigtails for the VSS and brake + and - .

In the meantime I tried to locate a good wire for the tach connection. Looks like it’s coming off the igniter (black) but there’s a second black wire off the igniter as well that goes to the diagnostic port. I’ll probably tap into that in the cab at the port.



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I think the tach wire is to sense if the Rpms spike (accidental neutral) which in turn shuts off the cruise.
 
After a quick spin there’s a full 1” difference from side to side at the edge of the rear frame member. Pretty sure I’m going to add one leaf to the drivers side and remove one from the passenger side. Don’t think one leaf on either side is going to do the trick unless someone with more experience than me thinks so?!
 
Was hoping to wire up the cruise control the last few days but ended up getting sidetracked on a buddies rig.

Amazing electrical kit showed up from @cruiserbrett that will help me keep it all OEM style connectors...

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I’m going to use the OEM bullet style connectors for a short pigtail to tie into the Brake switch. Will use a separate connector he sent for the VSS to match the fuel injection harness he built for the 3FE.


He also sent a relay mount and associated spade connectors so the install for the cruise control switch is super sano.

Excited to finish this but tomorrow being Mothers Day I will use my better judgement and shoot for Monday.

:beer:
 
Making some progress on the cruise control wiring. Pig tails for brake switch made. I used yellow wire to differentiate the + side. Terminals (and wire) from @cruiserbrett.

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Used Paladin crimpers. They work great. Been awhile since I’ve crimped these so learning curve was steep again. A few wasted terminals and a little hand holding from Brett. Ha ha




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VSS pigtail...

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I wanted to be able to remove this easily if it didn’t end up working the way I want. These pigtails make it easy to back out.


Brett sent a great relay plug and all the terminals, etc to make it super clean. Before going to all that trouble I want to test the system and be sure I’m wired up right. So... simple spade terminals for now.


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Brake pigtails at the cruise harness side...


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Finalized the wiring of the Rostra Cruise control this morning. Last wire was the blue “TACH” wire that I attached temporarily into the BLACK tach wire at the DIAGNOSIS plug. It’s labeled as IG- and is separate from the others so easy to get to. This is a temporary connection so I can test the system...

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I decided to just wedge it into the rear for now.

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My plan is to build another pigtail here and remove this OEM wire and add the pigtail into the back of the diagnosis plug with both the original tach wire from the igniter as well as the blue Rostra tach wire.
 
Initial programming per the guide shows how to set the 12 toggle switches...

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Key on and the switch lights up and turns ON.

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First test drive was a success with a few minor issues:

1- Throttle surging when trying to hold a steady speed. Already set the gain from MEDIUM to EXTRA LOW as recommended in the troubleshooting section so we’ll see how it improves.

2- Throttle didn’t consistently return all the way to idle. I loosened the slack on the Rostra cruise cable to see if this would help. It seemed just a tad tight.

We’ll see how the next test drive goes.
 
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In the meantime I tackled the sagging drivers side.

After some recommendations here and confirming with Kurt (my OME source) I determined I would add one leaf to the drivers side. I picked the shorter of the 2 leafs I had removed previously.

Measured the hole to determine which end went to the front and which went to the rear.

A new tool in the garage made quick work of lifting the frame of the 45. No more wobbly high lift jack...


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A couple of floor jacks, a battery impact gun and I was well on my way...

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In the past I had always completely removed the spring to break them down but today I dropped the rear and left the front hanger in place and just removed the shock, u-bolt plate and u-bolts.

Then used a few clamps and removed the centering pin and loosened everything up. Slid the leaf in and a bit of beating with a rubber mallet got everything lined up again.

Once bolted all together I re-installed the spring on the rear shackle, added u-bolts, plate and shock. Hopped up and down a few times on the back and pre-test drive I’m about 3/16” high on the drivers side. A pretty good start I think as I’m pretty sure it will settle a little once driven around!
 
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So been struggling to get this cruise not to surge once set.

Contacted Rostra tech support and they have always been helpful. Sorted through a few options about possible culprits.

1- They say the cruise throttle should push back into the sheath when the car throttle is pressed. Not sure how they think that’s possible?! The loop connection is like a wet noodle and doesn’t have the rigidity to do much of anything.

2- Suggested grounding the blue tach wire for now.

3- He thought maybe there was an issue with the VSS if everything else checked out.


So first I decided to try to solve the wet noodle issue. I figured a little shrink wrap over the connections might give it just enough rigidity. I removed the parts in question and used this setup...

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Once shrunk onto the connections I re-installed and it was just enough to push it into the cruise sheath when activating the throttle.

I also grounded the blue wire and went for a test drive with no change.

Eventually we determined that I was using the 2000 pulses per mile setting for the 2PRS-TOY VSS but I'm maybe using the 4 pulse version of the VSS based on my previous posts?! I do not find it on the Jags That Run website and I’m confused because I have one on the 40 as well. Need to dig through some paperwork and see what I’m really using on these rigs!

Either way I changed the toggle to the 4000 pulses per mile and it worked like a charm. No surging and a quick, even response on a short freeway drive.

Later this week I may do a little fine tuning with the gain to see if it gets any better. But for now I can engage the cruise between 60-65 and it hums right down the freeway.


:beer:
 
Nolen-

Definitely a bit higher in the back now (on the drivers side at least). Drove 200 miles round trip to work and it’s got a bit more stiffness to it than before. I was thinking I probably should have just removed one from the passenger side to level it out instead. I now have only one leaf out of the drivers side and 2 out of the passenger side. I think it will ride better if I remove a leaf from each side and end up with 2 removed from the drivers side and 3 removed from the passenger side. These are the OME heavies and they are pretty stiff. Not sure when I’ll have time to remove a leaf from each side... oh well. It’s fine for now and doesn’t get driven much anyway. I will do it though once I get some time.

It seems pretty level here but the drive is sloped so it does sit up a bit in the back...


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The cruise control however is nearly spot on. I know it seems a bit silly (I agree) but the pedal angle on this sucks and long drives are not as enjoyable. I’ve set the gain now to ultra low and it was a real steady drive with no surging whatsoever. I started at MED so I may try in between with LOW and see if it’s even a tad tighter.

I’m glad I put the switch below the column because I can’t see it there and I like that I’m not staring at something so out of place.

Last thing will be to pull it all and wrap with harness tape to get it all cleaned up.
 
Also, what is the big jack? Looks like a lift

I did splurge on a 2 post lift for my birthday. Been eyeballing these for years with no real reason to get one besides “want” as the cruisers are so easy to work beneath. I had measured out 3-4 different configurations with 2-post, 4-post etc and how I could fit more cars in the garage.

After my dad and I got a car that is very difficult to work underneath without a lift I decided the days of multiple floor jacks, cribbing and jack stands were over for me.

My wife is super supportive of all the projects but did not like seeing me under the other car with no room to spare.

Once I got the green light it was here in 3 days. Been a great addition.
 
Dom, hard to believe you can use cruise control down there? Even with corona, it’s a s*** show? What’s next power windows!!🤣
 
I know Brian... seems silly but after the pedal swap with the 3FE, some sagging in the front seat, and a few more birthdays my tolerance for “uncomfortable”is waning. I used to have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to move this thing. Now it’s just a slight toe in.

And surprisingly the traffic is bearable. After 19 years of driving from Oceanside to Santa Monica I don’t typically have to slow down.

However, if I drive the 45 I’m like a golf cart at a Formula 1 race.






No power windows...
 

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