Builds Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB

[DomSmith]

I also decided to change the lenses on my turn signals. The old ones were white from the sun and cracking so I pulled the orange lenses off one of the sets of new lights I had and popped them on. I suppose I could have changed the entire light but the originals work fine and I thought the shiny new ones would really look out of place on this old girl...


I pulled the lens and cleaned out what was left of the gasket from the old lights...

Pulled the lens and gasket out of here:

Final look:

 

[DomSmith]

When Brett was buy last time he spotted something that needed a little attention...

Maybe the original? Either way we decided it was best put on the shelf and replaced. I drove around for more than a week hoping it wouldn't get broken while I PB blasted the hell out of the bezel bolts. Finally they came free without breaking. Not sure if this has ever been off...

Looks like it's been a while since the bezel was off too. Original rubber grommets??? All 4 in place...

Found a set of 4 bezel bolts that I had ordered from SOR about 4 years ago for the 40 and put them on. Perfect! I knew I was procrastinating for a reason.

 

[DomSmith]

I was also in serious need of a longer brake line in the rear after the lift. There was not much wiggle room after the OME and axle shift. Once I got under there I realized how bad it was.

Old line:

So off to the local custom line shop and my first taste of 9mm fittings.

We don't have those.....


Ok. So it turns out we had to do some minor "modifications". This made me realize the idea of making all new brake lines with 10mm fittings might be the way to go, but for now here's what I did.

I had them make me a steel braided (covered in black) line 5" longer than what I had that fit the T on the axle (they had that) and had a 10mm fitting on the other side. I also brought my long hard brake line mounted to the inner side of the frame on the passenger side. This we made a replacement for with one 10mm fitting for the stainless and one of the original 9mm fittings from the line I brought in.

It fit perfectly. Now I have to figure out what to do with the fronts. It will be the same issue but there's a lot of extra hose there compared to the rear. These won't be an issue until I go wheeling.

 

[DomSmith]

A few other odd-ball tasks have been completed...


I forgot to mention that I tightened the passenger side axle nut mentioned in a previous post. It was not nearly as loose as the drivers side but still needed tightening. And again the grease was clean and abundant and the bearings looked like new!

In continuing with trying to get her running perfectly I installed new spark plugs after gaping them to FSM specs. While I was at it I also decided to do a compression test for peace of mind...


1- 125psi
2- 135psi
3- 125psi
4- 125psi
5- 125psi
6- 125psi






I also picked up a horn bushing from SOR when I was last there. They are no longer available but they had one that was welded to the horn contact.

I had made one out of a shackle bushing but it was too sensitive and I was honking the horn with a stiff breeze. I used a razor blade to remove this and add it to my contact. For some reason the hole in the middle was a tiny bit smaller than mine and wouldn't fit over the shaft.

I still need to replace the tie rod ends, replace the rear main seal and the front tranny input shaft seal as this thing is leaking all over the garage floor and driveway...

 

[cruiserbrett]

what thread/pitch was the "T" fitting on the axle??? thought it was an oddball?

So they had the male end for the "T" and you made a new long hardline down the frame with 9mm at hte front end, and 10mm on hose end, and they put a female 10mm fitting on the end of the hose?

 

[DomSmith]

That's how I understand it. I took the old hose in and they had the T side no problem. It was the 9mm side that went to the hard line at the frame that they didn't do. I'll try to dig up the receipt.

EDIT: The receipt just lists the hose as CK31-1720-03PP0220 V BLACK. I think the CK31 represents that end FWIW. I can call Furman in the morning and ask.

 

[dmaddox]

the old t's or "ways" as they call them at the dealer were 8.0x1mm I believe.

also, contrary to popular belief. . .some of the turn signals lenses were clear/white color. Yours may have been, mine are. My buddy Rob Grimes has pictures of early sixties rigs with clear turn signal lenses. After all, mine have orange bulbs inside. However, amber is all they have in re-sale that I know of.

dallas

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Did you know that NAPA has an adapter for the 9mm. I have not used one yet, but they sell for about $6.50, the part number should be BK 6415023, and they should look like this...

 

[Ironmanfj45]

The Napa site:

Brake Line Assembly Adapter - Metal, 3/16"

It does not call the adapter a 9mm to 10mm. I am not sure how close 3/8 X 24 is to 10mm but it sounds like others here have used this without any leaks. I have been thinking on using one of these and found that most NAPA's have to special order it and so they ended up being a little more $$.

Cheers,

Jim

 

[DomSmith]

Well, despite the activity on this thread...





echo


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I actually have been doing quite a bit on the 45...

The biggest improvement was having cruiserbrett come by and give the motor a once over and get it running right. I was never able to get it to run perfect but it was running decent until recently. The first thing he noticed was the distributor had taken a turn for the worse. I had inadvertently unscrewed the octane selector to the point that it wasn't engaged at all. So the vacuum advance was inoperable and the points were FRIED:

So we pulled the distributor and Brett went to work on the repairs. Turned out the vacuum canister was bad as well, so after replacing the vacuum canister and changing the points and condenser all looked good. We set the point gap and re-installed the dizzy and set the timing. While at it we added new Toyota spark plug wires from an FJ60:

After firing it up, it ran much better than before as you can imagine.

After the dizzy was sorted we turned our efforts to the carb (Carter YF). I had struggled with hard starting in the mornings since day one and a few idle issues that I was unable to sort out. One quick look from Brett determined the idle circuit wasn't working properly.

Wanna guess why?...

So after determining the idle screw tip was broken off we were at a standstill until I could get this taken care of.


The next day I pulled the carb, removed the base and dropped by the local carb shop to see if I could get a new base and screw. No dice on the base but he did give me a new idle screw. I was able to push out the broken screw end with a lot of effort and reassemble the carb with the new screw. So off to Brett's for a final tuning...a few minor screw adjustments, some re-timing and test drives and I was stoked!

 

[DomSmith]

After about a week of the 45 running great I decided I should change my plans and meet up with some buddies for an annual snowboard trip. I had decided against it initially, but after considering driving the 45 and making it an adventure I was up for it. And I knew the 45 was! I loaded up my stuff and headed to work for a few days along with a few projects I wanted to finish up before the trip.

I re-installed the Eaton heater and ran new heater hoses as well as repaired the dash switch.

I also replaced the driver door weatherstripping that I had gotten from my buddy to help seal up the ride and replaced the felt window channels that Mike (crusherboy) had given me to quiet the window rattling. The weather was supposed to be pretty reasonable but I knew that the top needed a little work too, so I used some marine sealer to fill the gaps between the top and the front channel.

I also repaired the passenger side wiper motor that hadn't worked since I brought the truck home. Once I pulled it apart it was obvious what the problem was...

The rod is intact on this good one...

The pivot was broken off the rod on the passengers side...

So I replaced the rod with a spare, cleaned it up and re-lubed it. I also replaced the wiper switch with one from my buddy, then cleaned and painted the knob using a white paint pen...

I also decided it would be a good idea to have the coolant overflow bottle installed before the trip. I got the idea here: Coolant Overflow Thanks Steve! Here are a few of the parts I had ordered from CDan...

I decided to drill just one hole for the bottle mount and made sure it was extra tight. Then I just added the bottle, trimmed the tube and popped on the top...

After 2 days at work and a few projects finished, I left the next morning...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-club/263797-so-i-drove-45-mammoth.html

 

[DomSmith]

After returning home I've sorted a few more items...

Added weatherstripping to the ammo box in the bed I'm using for storage...

Removed the wiring from an old voltage (12v to 6v) reducer...

Had a bunch of local MUDers over for a meet and greet...

Upgraded to the safety of a Toyota 6 blade plastic fan...

Replaced all the tie-rod ends...

Replaced the two terminal blocks...

Replaced the old bumper...

With a stock one Jim (Centerlineseal) drug on a plane from Idaho.. Thanks Jim! Now it looks like it should.

Topped it off with the black license plate and original license plate frame I've been sitting on for 14 years...

 

[whitey45]

Dom, your truck is screaming for a factory pto winch!

 

[D'Animal]

Making Great Progress!

 

[Ironmanfj45]

Looking Good Dom! Boy those local cruiser guys look a little rough around the edges. I hope no Jeeps drove by with cute chicks in them.

Cheers,

Jim

 

[DomSmith]

Thanks guys.

Dom, your truck is screaming for a factory pto winch!

I was thinking the same thing. Except....



gulp.....



The tranny cover would need a hole.

 

[landcrusher909]

Dom looks great !!!!!!

 

[DomSmith]

Fuse Block Upgrade

So I decided to replace the original 5 fuse block with a new OEM Toyota 6 Fuse block. I have not had electrical issues but I wanted to take the preventative approach and I figure the chances are good that a 40+ year old part could use replacing so...


I broke out my new reference material I got from Jim (Ironmanfj45) and compared the 5 fuse wiring diagram with the 6 fuse diagram along with the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual. Thanks Jim! I had a pretty good grasp on what went where and decided to go forward with it...

You can see the 6 fuse block I ordered from CDan along with the other parts...

The first obstacle was determining where the wires would connect on the new block compared to the old one. After reviewing the diagrams and testing the switches on my 5 fuse block here's what I came up with...


5 FUSE BLOCK
1- 30AMP LIGHT (BATT)
2- 30AMP WIPER (BATT)
3- 5AMP METER (SWITCHED)
4- 15AMP TURN (SWITCHED)
5- 15AMP HORN (BATT)



The new 6 block configuration was...


6 FUSE BLOCK
1- 30AMP LIGHT (BATT)
2- 30AMP HORN (BATT)
3- 5AMP SPARE (BATT)
4- 15AMP METER (SWITCHED)
5- 15AMP WIPER (SWITCHED)
6- 15AMP TURN (SWITCHED)


My plan was to wire up the new fuse block so the cover would correspond with the appropriate switches to limit the confusion later when I had to troubleshoot fuses, etc. So I would need to switch up the wiring to match the 6 fuse block.


The first thing I realized was that the wires came in on the left side of the old fuse block and would need to come in on the opposite side of the new fuse block. There was not a lot of wiggle room for the wiring so I actually dropped the loom a little by flipping one of the loom retainers just above the fuse block which gained me about 1.5" more to work with. I also flipped the two sets of wires that dropped down to the fuse block to either side of the HI/LO shift linkage. You can see the flipped loom retainer (with ground) and wiring here...

Once I had as much free play as I could gain I went to work wiring the new block. The top fuse remained the "LIGHT" circuit, the second fuse was now the "HORN" circuit (I took from the #5 spot on the old block) and the third fuse would be a spare (BATT) fuse. But the "WIPER" wire was too short to reach the #5 spot so I just added it to the third (SPARE) fuse location and labeled it with electrical tape to remind me that it was not on it's correct (as far as the cover is concerned) circuit. The fourth fuse was now the "METER" circuit, the fifth was empty (since the wiper wire wouldn't reach) and the sixth was now the "TURN" circuit.

My main goal was to keep from cutting the wiring loom so the one wire change and no cutting was a pretty good trade off I thought. The wipers are now on the BATT side of the block but that's the original wiring on the 65 anyway.

Here's a pic of the original 5 fuse block with the wires coming in on the left side...

And the new fuse block with the wires coming in on the right side (you can see the with green tape with "WIPER" label)...

Here's the final product...

 

[merbesfield]

Dom, beautiful work thus far. It sure does make me wish I had just gone thru my nice original LV instead of taking it apart, but the rust was too much to look at. Hind site is 20/20, but after tearing it apart I realized how original it actually was. Keep up the great work and the posts to help us all.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Enjoying the thread. I'm curious, after you painted the white letters how did you paint the black without covering any of the white?

Keep up the nice work.