Just get her drivable (5 Viewers)

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I want to remove this setup...to get rid of the pipe (16577)

Whatever was hooked to the small outlet is no longer there and the outlet is capped.

upload_2014-8-18_18-59-17.webp
 
I was heading out to show a friend some work I had just finished and ended up in a hot parking lot because one of those caps (they suck!) broke! Good. News it was SOR. Bought new pump and now I don't have any of those caps. Thanks for the help Kurt!
 
Sorry. Sounds like you want to keep that hose. Just want to remove that section...? Why not just get a new rubber hose. With that length it should be able to handle the bends at the ends, or get a new pipe that doesn't have the little outlet.

Sorry I wish I could be more help.
 
Well I have to keep the hose, that is the hose that runs to the bottom of the radiator. Just want to remove the metal pipe that connects the two. There are currently two sections of molded hose connected by a now not needed metal pipe, want to reduce to one.

Not a hard job, just was inquiring to see if anyone had done it and knew of a part number or where they bought it.

Thanks
 
Well I found a fix. This is the hose I was concerned with. The hoses were getting brittle and the small port on the metal pipe was capped, so I didn't need 2 separate hoses anymore. THis was the hoses from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator.


Went to Auto Zone and got a hose to fit.....the ends were different diameters, so that was a challenge, but ended up with one that would work. Cut off the excess and everything is good to go.

 
Way better than that cap. I had a cap like that on the water pump and it blew twice- once taking my head gasket with it! Way better! Great remedie
 
Finally got around to replacing my worn out door striker with new (to me) part that @Delancy sent to me months ago. I've been putting this off because I assumed it would be a bitch job and I'd run into all kinds of problems, but that didn't happen. Went pretty smooth.

Old part.....can easily see how it is worn out and wouldn't latch unless it was slammed.


New one that Delancy sent me. Thanks again!



Up inside the door....thought I was going to have to cut some of the door to get access, but it was ok with some interesting hand maneuvers....would be handy to have someone hold the flashlight for you




I was able to save this plastic piece, somehow...I was waiting for it to pop, but it flexed enough to pop the bar out. It is located at the connection of the inside handle.



THis is really the only tricky part....you have to rotate the part that the outside door plunger hits and at the same time line up the mounting holes, and its at the top of the door up inside




Lubed up the mechanism, and now latches great with very little effort. It is such a terrible design that will eventually wear out again, and at that time I'll go all in with the bear claw latches....but until then this will work no more than I drive it.
 
Good Job, it's a patience builder for sure. If you ever need some of those plastic pieces on the door handles, I have a box full, that work good.
 
onemanarmy said:
Finally got around to replacing my worn out door striker with new (to me) part that @Delancy sent to me months ago. I've been putting this off because I assumed it would be a bitch job and I'd run into all kinds of problems, but that didn't happen. Went pretty smooth.

Old part.....can easily see how it is worn out and wouldn't latch unless it was slammed.


New one that Delancy sent me. Thanks again!



Up inside the door....thought I was going to have to cut some of the door to get access, but it was ok with some interesting hand maneuvers....would be handy to have someone hold the flashlight for you




I was able to save this plastic piece, somehow...I was waiting for it to pop, but it flexed enough to pop the bar out. It is located at the connection of the inside handle.



THis is really the only tricky part....you have to rotate the part that the outside door plunger hits and at the same time line up the mounting holes, and its at the top of the door up inside




Lubed up the mechanism, and now latches great with very little effort. It is such a terrible design that will eventually wear out again, and at that time I'll go all in with the bear claw latches....but until then this will work no more than I drive it.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind it took 40 years to wear out the first time!
Great pictures...
 
So I've been trying to track down a new reverse lens for my 77. No luck. It seems that they changed over the years, around 1972/73. Ive heard of people getting new light assemblies from the dealer (years ago) but all of the online dealer sites I've checked and SOR seem to say that they are discontinued. Does anyone have a lens (thats all I need) laying around? None on Electronics Bay dot com.
 
Sorry Man, I have several, but all the early style. The early ones, you can still get at the dealer. Seems odd that you can't get the newer, bigger ones from the dealer.
 
So my cruiser has a serious case of the lean. Over an inch lower on the driver side and seems to be getting worse. I'm still running the stock springs and I've already installed some longer shackles all around, and the springs seem to have the same arch (none are noticeable flatter than others) but yet she still leans. I know getting lift springs is a tricky/expensive endeavor, and due to the spring under suspension, I'm not sure if an add a leaf is a good choice. Has anyone tackled this problem without new springs? I guess I could put longer shackles on the driver side, but that would just look funky. Not even sure why it leans as it does. Never been abused or offroaded, and has relatively few miles.
 
Do you have the link to the kit you're going to use? This is definitely something that I will need to do in the future on mine, but like you I will need to find the cash somewhere
 
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