I spent a bit more time on the truggy today, working on the boat sides and the rear axle truss and upper link tower. This photo shows the basic setup, the blue tape representing the upper and lower links. The frame side of the upper links will be housed just to the inside of the outer bars for the boat sides, you can see the ends of the tubes just under the cab seams. The upper links will be adjustable in placement via mounts with 5 different mounting points spaced 5/8" vertically.
This photo shows the basic triangulation of the links. Brackets on top of the axle tower will hold the rear of the upper links. The towers will be gusseted for support. and strength. The tower also acts as a main support for the truss.
This photo shos the basic link placememt. The upper links are pretty close to actual vertical placement. The lower links will mount centered on the axle and centered vertically on the frame rails making the angle a bit higher than shown.
This photo gives you an idea of how the upper link tower also supports the axle truss. The area between the two 1/4" plates will be filled in with 1/8" plate acting as a gusset. The upper link tabs will be welded to the tower on the inner side and to the axle truss tube on the outside with a gusset between them.
Another Sat in the shop. I was still waiting on Johnny joints so I figured I’d deal with one of the front body mounts, what’s left at least. Started with this
Kept and duplicated with 1/8” plate both sides, 1/8” plate top piece, 1/8”plate down the side and along top to tie back to stronger material.
The A Post on the roll cage will have a ¼” plate on the base, it will bolt through the 1/8” plate body mount to a ¼” plate on the frame.
In the beginning you figure out the basics, wheelbase,tire size, target weight, CG Height. You take all your basic measurements from your rear axle center to where in space you plan to mount the links.
Figure it all out on the 4 link calculator, changing dimensions in small increments to improve the numbers you are shooting for. You come to a set of numbers that work, at least on the computer.
Then you start building it, I did the axle side first. I built the frame side upper link mounts, 5 way adjustable. I made up a pair of links, attached one end to the axle side, the other to the frame side link and used that to position the frame side link. A little masaging of the numbers and they were tacked in where they are going to live.
Plugged the new numbers into the calculator , a little massage on the lower link numbers and I will be good. Now to support the upper link mounts
Worked on the cross member for the frame side of the lower links today. Test fit went well, just needs to be welded up and have a few gussets added. Note the bolts toward the outside, the center section is removable to ease removal of the transfer case and trans.
Working nights on the Truggy is paying off. Got the T-case and lower link cross members welded in and the boat sides are coming along as well. The Upper Link frame side mounts are also coming along. I need to put the cab back on the frame so I can get a cross member fabbed up between the two mounts and triangulated back down to the main frame.
It looks a lot fatter than it really is, only 4'5" outside to outside of the boat sides.
The boat sides and upper frame/floor support is starting to come together. The front body mount and then the front of the roll cage will tie into the small boxes toward the front of the boat sides. More triangulation will tie those and the rear cage mounts that will sit on top of the frame side mounts for the rear upper links.
I actually got some work done on the truggy this week, amazing. I got the rest of the truss work done on both sides of the frame. This will both strengthen the boat sides as well as creat a truss on both sides of the frame. THe humidity was over 90% for two days straight, thus the forming surface rust. I'll be cleaning that up this week and either caoting with WD40 or a light coat of paint to prevent future rust while in the ohhhhhhh so long build process.
Got the cab back on the frame and the fenders and hood mocked up to start narrowing the front end. I am taking 12" total out of the width of the front end.
The outside edge of the blue tape is 6" and taper back to 0 where the the top of the fender meets the cowl. THe taper will be removed from the cowl and the hood.
A stock grill on the top, narrowed grill on the bottom
Once the center two sections which are exactly 6" were removed I glassed the two outside sections together with epoxy resin.
Did a little more today. Past the point of no return, well sorta. I cut the cowl and the hood on the passenger side. No photos of the hood but here's the cowl.
The front end is narrowed! All that is left is to fit the grill section and that has to wait until the front tube work is complete so there is something to tie it all in to. Once the fenders were pulled in 2.25" had to be removed from the front of the hood.
Once the section of the hood was cut the edge was cut off and then welded back to the edge of the hood.
The hood cut, ready to slit the top of the fender and pull it in.
A little truggy porn Like X-mas in Sept. I love that little brown truck.
These are weld in louvers. I'll trim the louver panels then cut out the hood to match and weld them in. 24 four inch louvers in each panel. That should help the engine compartment breath.
I am thinking a set on the FJC and maybe the 60 as well.
I got the louver panels cut in and welded in today. Lots of work. Still a little hammer and dolly work left to do. I just had to throw it up on the fenders and take a look.
Got the louvers in and the hood pounded back in to shape and primed. Best I can guess is that this hood was walked on at some point, there was 3/8” bondo in places and the hood panel was popped off the sub panel.
I cut all that was needed to support the headlight and tie in to the fenders in two places from the radiator support and clamped the narrowed grill section between them to mock up the hood. This is as far as I can go with the front clip without the tube behind it to hang it from.
If you are thinking about an early 80’s Toyota mini truck build, be prepared to hone your metal working skills. The lower corner of the body at the passenger side door was swiss cheese so I cut it back to solid metal.
The first piece required a curved bend and a 90 degree angle. Not too hard to create using a shrinker and stretcher. Thanks James. You can see the black lines to cut the piece so it welds in flush.
A few flat pieces and one piece rolled to follow the contour of the bottom of the cab were all welded in to match the driver’s side. The door gaps now all line up and no more cancer.
