Jdmdavey's 84 FJ60 SOA + Chevy 63" Spring Swap

[cruisermatt]

I'm going to cut and turn..just getting my spring perches tacked on then removing axle for cut n turn.. no worries

You need to do the cut and turn with the weight of the vehicle on the axle.
The axle rotates a few degrees through its travel and a few degrees of caster is a lot.

 

[FJ40Jim]

You're doing good, then. There's already a CV joint front d-shaft, so rotate the pinion up until it's only a couple degrees below the d-shaft angle. This will improve the angle at the top slightly, while minimizing u-jt vibe at the pinion. Taking it too high can starve the outer pinion bearing for oil, which is why I like to see it a little lower than actually zeroed to the d-shaft. Also, consider moving the fill plug up since the housing is stripped, or at least drill & tap for a 3/8NPT fill plug above the stock filler.

Consider adding 1-2° caster for the SOA and 1-2° for big-arse tires, compared to factory settings.

 

[jdmdavey]

Moving the fill plug up is a great idea. I'm going to just weld in a 1/2" bung. I wouldn't want to use a bulkhead style fittting. It would most likely leak at some point.. so I will shoot for somewhere in the neighborhood for 4-5° positive caster

 

[jdmdavey]

Ok..back at it after almost 2 weeks off! Had to go to California for a wedding..wasting a whole weekend of SOA time ..
So here is the latest quandry.. got the ruff stuff diff side perch leveld out and square..I know they include a 10° cut section but if I used it it would almost entirely be ground to nothing to fit..anyone else use theres the same way as me?? It looks like it would be plenty strong as it sits against the axle housing. Measured from the ground kt matches up height wise with the drivers side perch.. Thanks guys!

do I even need this!?? Doesn't look like it to me!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Yes. Look at other pictures using that set up. That piece in your hand sits on the side of the pumpkin. The flat part of the perch is welded to that and the curved side is welded to the tube.

 

[jdmdavey]

I understand where it goes..it just doesn't seem to fit..

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I looked at all of your pics and it looks like you are placing your perches too far to the driver side. Remeasure that and report back.

On the right side of the vehicle, I think that perch should be about 1 inch outboard. That would give enough room for the extra leg of the perch,which may itself need to be ground a bit to fit just right.

 

[White Stripe]

Have u considered using 4plus' axle housing spacer? Makes the axle wider. Put a spacer on each side and u are at fj80 width and can use a fj80 axle in the rear.

 

[Adam Scherm]

I had similar issues with the Ruff Stuff perch for the diff side. For the life of me I couldn’t keep it aligned, level and square..... but I was using a really cheap stick welder to try and tack everything in place so that’s my excuse.

Ultimately I was having Georg and his guys at Valley Hybrids do my C&T so I had them finish my welding on that perch too.

Good luck!

 

[jdmdavey]

Little update! At the advice of cruiser drew..(thanks a ton by the way you rock man!) I double checked everything and my axle housing wasn't centered under the truck. I also installed new SOR greasable shackles and pins. So... I went ahead and plasma cut the perches back off and luckily had 2 regular Ruff Stuff perches left.. I really like the way the regular perch works vs the new style. It turned out great. Next step is to put it back under the truck snug everything up, drop the jack and cut and turn.

Also.. Where did you source a longer square U bolt for the diff side??

Anyone know of the marlin crawler 20" brake lines will be long enough? Want to get those and some shocks ordered so I can be ready for next weekend!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Regarding the large square U-bolt, it's a bit complicated.

I got the u-bolt from NAPA. They have dozens of U-bolts. One of them is the right width and extra long which you need. Most spring shops can custom bend u-bolts too.

Then, you need to use a die an make the threads on one leg about 4 inches longer.

Then, You need to bend the U-bolt legs so it fits the housing, then straightens up to capture the spring and allow you to use a "normal" spring plate.

I can get you pics but I'm away from my stuff right now. The rethreading and bending takes about 30 minutes, so not a huge deal.

 

[jdmdavey]

Just have to find the right u bolt! Rethreading wont be a big deal.. looks like something around the length of a Ruff Stuff Bolt would be close. What about the brake lines?? Thinking those 20"lines from Marlin Crawler Look about right.. probably going to run Bilstein 5125's at 14" of travel.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I posted some pictures of the U bolt-this one is my spare. It's 3 1/4 inches square, with the long legs and bent as you see. The numbers are stamped on the side of the u-bolt-don't know if they will aid in the search. For sure, I purchased several of these at NAPA.



These look like they would work
https://www.amazon.com/Zone-Offroad...809&sr=8-2&keywords=square+u+bolt+3.25+inches

 

[jdmdavey]

Update time! Last weekend had a few spare hours and got the knuckles cut and turned to 5°+ Caster. Then tacked. Haven't burned them in totally yet. Also sand blasted my hubs primed and painted with some fresh hammerite! Just have to blast and paint springs and cant start reassembling. Still deciding on brake lines thinking of just buying the Marlin Crawler SS 20" lines.
Any opinions on those would be great!

 

[jdmdavey]

Also thanks a ton @Cruiserdrew for the Ubolt reccomendation!

 

[jdmdavey]

Ok..I know its been a while.. a really long while! But im back working on the SOA.
Got my springs all cleaned, painted and ready to go. Started to rebuild the front hubs and install the marlin crawler high steer kit. Ran into an issue, while trying to set up the trunnion bearings I cant seem to get the marlin steering arm to seat flush to the top of the knuckle. It's centered perfectly in the bearing yet it wont even touch the shim. Don't have a clue why..new bearings and races.
These are NOT at full torque as well. They are pretty snug yet I'm not seeing the gap being closed by hitting the ft/lbs number. Races are seated flush etc.. any ideas? Thanks!
Dave

 

[jdmdavey]

These pictures are with only one thick shim top and bottom as well in case that helps!

 

[jdmdavey]

Update..went ahead and torqued the knuckle bolts to 71lb/ft and low and behold the high steer arm ended up nice and tight. I have to check the preload with a push/pull gauge but atleast I got them to seat!

 

[cruisermatt]

Can you turn the knuckle by hand? It should be stiff but smooth. There is definitely a correct “feel” it should have. Those gaps on the steering arms and caps do not look good to me, I would want them fully seated before being torqued down, I bet they are too tight on the bearings and you’re going to have to pull them out and throw some shims in.

Also, I’d recommend upping your torque spec on the steering arms to 100ft-lbs.