Izzy's amateur hour (1 Viewer)

[izzyandsue]

Rear left door, lock hasn’t work since I got the truck and the window stopped working last week. Sooo, doorlock first as the window will likely need a new motor. There are quite a few posts on it, and he video from Texas Knowhow, so just the highlights. First, the 2 tabs holding the rods where tight, some silicone spray made it easier to remove.
For the most part, once you remove the motor assembly it’s all about removing the old solidified grease, cleaning it all out, then adding some new grease on the mechanism. I did checked motor inside the black housing below and it look fine, just needed old grease out, new one in.

It did come in handy to remove the plastic splash shield when cleaning and regreasing, only one screw holds it down.

Now the rear door locks works perfectly. Getting to the window regulator will be for another day. At least I know they are available for around $50.

 

[izzyandsue]

Window motor, this is the driver rear door on the 80. The motor stopped working so I got a Doorman replacement. Of course, once I remove everything (door panel, plastic vapor barrier, 4 bolts for this assembly) I reconnected it to double check and it started working. Nay nay I said, you are coming off for now. I used the same vapor barrier to hold the window so it wouldn't move too mush. All needed to be done is remove the 3 screws.

Old motor, gunked grease on the gear

Then clean up all the debris and old grease from the mechanism and the teeth. Silicone grease and spray, and gunk is off and ready to reassemble

Before closing it all up, good idea to connect the electric plug to the assembly and make sure it moves. It was smooth.

The Doorman motor comes with 3 different connector cables, one of them if a perfect match. This door, for some strange reason, the window switch works in reverse, up is down, down is up. That was the same with the old motor, and the new. So I was used to it anyways, but it can be confusing to passengers!

 

[angerhater]

did you re grease all the area where the arm slides along the bracket? looks like that may be where a bunch of drag/friction would be common.

 

[izzyandsue]

That’s the main area you can grease by lowering the window, the track where the arm wheel rides. You can also clean the window rubber channels while “in there”

 

[izzyandsue]

So, get to my office this morning (40 mile trip), and parked in garage, I see some steam coming out of the hood! WTF!?! Hood open, flashlight out and can see some wetness, but can't locate where from. Anyway, had important work, one of my guys was back from deployment and wanted to talk, made company commander while out so dont want to dampen the meeting. Truck cooled for about an hour.
Back out, flashlight and still cant find the source. Plug in the ultragauge blue (do not recommend it, more on that later) and see coolant temp is normal. Go to convenience store and end up adding 4 small bottles of water, and now in the sunlight can see the issue, this little hose is broken on the engine side. The throttle body bypass is part number 16267-66020 if you ever need it.

Was able to cut the broken part off, and re-use the same, now shorter by 3/4 inch, hose with a hose clamp. The hose is still very soft so need to order a new one. But at least I can drive. Drove home and gauge showed 176-181 F on the coolant.

Partsouq.com is $6.58, but around $18 with shipping, will be here Thursday.

Scott Clark Toyota was, "well, special part, will need to be sourced from another planet, not sure of the price, need to investigate further, you got to pay for it first before I even order it, may take a few days to get here, do not know, may need to order from Japan and Godzilla may destroy the ship it comes in, so its expensive". Anyway, never even gave me a price.

On whim, called Hendricks Lexus, since I will be driving by there tomorrow on my way downtown, "That part is $19, can get it here tomorrow, all I need is a phone number and will call you in the morning to let you know when it will be here". No hesitation, just straight up service. Wow, go Lexus. I okayed the order even though could wait until Thursday.

 

[roadstr6]

I had a similar experience when Toyota would not sell me caliper rebuild kits for my wife's LX. They wanted a VIN number and because it was a Lexus, they wouldn't sell them to me. The Lexus and Toyota parts are exactly the same and the part numbers are identical. Sales guy mumbled something about it being the last set in the U.S. and Toyota requiring documentation before they would sell outside of the dealer network. If I had been thinking, I could have pulled up a 100 series for sale on CL and copied the VIN and given it to them. I gave up and called Hendrick Lexus. They had two sets on the shelf. I was in and out in 5 minutes. The Lexus parts were more expensive, however. Time is money.

 

[izzyandsue]

It is a bizarre experience. I didnt even bother to call Hendricks Toyota part, as they seem to always have the same answer, their "techs need to look at the vehicle for a day because old land cruisers didn't use coolant, they used a proprietary mix of melted Mt. Fuji snow mixed with Ethylene glycol". But Hendricks Lexus did great, more $ and same part number. But comes in a Lexus bag! And maybe they will get me a free truck wash! Anyway Dave, its raining ice down our way man, one dog came in with ice all over her coat. Time to get the snow chains on the tires.

 

[izzyandsue]

Front brakes, ay-gain. Front calipers where very hard to move, almost frozen. So, Napa had them and this time I got the receipt for the lifetime warranty. New hoses too. Had to replace passenger side both hoses and hard line connector on axle. Hoses were original and driver side had surface cuts. Installed the 7000 series EBC greens upfront, 6000 on rear.

Since I was ordering from Partsouq, also got the rear bump stops that had no rubber left.

 

[izzyandsue]

So I am out in WV at training center, and my CDL is not working. Get truck up on lift and find the fecund green-yellow wire that I did a field repair on is disconnected. This time we got a more permanent fix, lowered the vehicle and still no CDL. We had no time to do much more and needed to get on trails to scout ahead for training class so I jumped on a Rover. Cross a few log bridges and the Troopy behind us is on the bridge and not moving. It fell through! The lighter Rover didn’t have a problem, but we should have checked the bridges. This was an interesting recovery, and that WV Creek water is cold!
HiLift plus some bridge building skills tested, but we got the troopy out with just a bent license plate. The right rear broke the log and it went down. Left front up in the air so it was balancing on 2 diagonal opposing wheels.

I still need to fix my CDL....I replaced the original a while back with a used one, might have short circuited something with the power wire cut

 

[weejub]

Those wheels on the Troopy where the issue - they even cause other vehicles CDLs to go out from the lazer beam they project from the sun!

Cool pics and fun recovery to see on here (vs in real life LOL).

 

[izzyandsue]

Well, not unexpected since I changed the lock door actuator on the dirver side, the passenger side eventually died during the latest heat wave, climate debacle from last week. So I replaced it. Something that could make it easier for anyone doing it in the future, a little silicone grease spray on the plastic tabs that hold the rods into the actuator makes them less prone to breaking and easier to remove.

There is the green one, the white one below it, and dong forget the bigger white one for the handle that is on the outer side, opposite the plastic shield.

The new Aisin unit from RockAuto goes in, the original Aisin one comes out, 2 screws and done

 

[uzj100]

Well, not unexpected since I changed the lock door actuator on the dirver side, the passenger side eventually died during the latest heat wave, climate debacle from last week. So I replaced it. Something that could make it easier for anyone doing it in the future, a little silicone grease spray on the plastic tabs that hold the rods into the actuator makes them less prone to breaking and easier to remove.

There is the green one, the white one below it, and dong forget the bigger white one for the handle that is on the outer side, opposite the plastic shield.

View attachment 2038616

The new Aisin unit from RockAuto goes in, the original Aisin one comes out, 2 screws and done

View attachment 2038622

Nice seiko!

 

[izzyandsue]

Ah, the old Turtle watch. It has become my go to watch most of the time, great mechanical movement

 

[uzj100]

Very nice. I run a G-Shock most of the time and keep the seiko for easier engagements. ;<)

 

[izzyandsue]

226k miles and 4 years later replaced the plugs, rotor and cap. Had to yoga my way to number 6 plug, forgot what a pain that one was! All good with Toyota parts

 

[izzyandsue]

Sunday! Finally got a chance to change the center diff oil, replace the AC and alternator tensioner bolts, and modify the front bumper. The last one was a hack job.
This bolt was necking quite a bit!

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

What was the objective of the bumper mod?

 

[izzyandsue]

To remove the stinger. As my upper chest gets smaller and my lower chest bigger, the stinger was a pain for accessing the engine

 

[stevezero]

Lower Chest...dats a good term to add to my vocab

 

[NCFJ]

I just call it gas