It's a Jeep Thang :flipoff2: (1 Viewer)

[arnott1t]

take a look at behemoth60's bj74. it has open wheel wells to clear 41's.

 

[cruisermatt]

Sounds like it's going to be at FC for awhile

 

[Delancy]

take a look at behemoth60's bj74. it has open wheel wells to clear

My intention is to clear with the frame sitting on the axle, since, once linked, it'll sustain benefit from the allowable wheel travel.

I'm operating under the assumption that tire size and wheelbase/track width do impact one another and limiting to 37s based on other builds by qualified builders, otherwise, I'd think more along the 42" line and cut, cut, cut.

Sounds like it's going to be at FC for awhile

I hope......but, at the same time, hope not.

Lengthy, uber builds have taken a toll, so hope to have a lot done long before then....IF it graces a slot in the shop.

 

[Delancy]

Appears it won't be a Jeep thang, after all, opting for a more elegant "solution", that kills four birds (80 width axle coverage, better lines to cut, and expansive engine bay to relocate all that'll be displaced from inner fenders, ventilation for possible intercooler) with one, high dollar RPG.

Before:

After:

Plan to cut along the flare line, or slightly above, which should (operative) be at the same elevation as the inside of the flat of flat fender, and tuck close to the bottom of the indicator.

We'll see.....dunno how soon the conversion will conplete, but parts should be on the train.

 

[GW Nugget]

Wow, that looks like stock if you don't know body styles... Nice find. Thumbs up.

Oh... I just re-read thread. It's a newer front clip... Very Nice.

 

[Delancy]

.....opting for a more elegant "solution"....

Mebbe not.....elegance could best be described, in this case most especially, as 'stupid expensive' so back to the drawing board.

Saw no point in another thread to discuss a path chosen for the 73.

I'll try to be brief.

Running Ruff Stuff housings front and rear, with 80 innards and outers, and can see no quicker way to mar the industrial beauty the the axles will be, than stringing some cobbled cable across the rear of it.

Have thought if a split case brake surfaced, I'd pick one up to eliminate.....one did......so I did..... But wondering if there's any reason not to use it, and/or any other known solutions (not line locks) that cost stupid money, aka are elegant.

 

[J Mack]

I'll try to be brief.

This was brief???

Running Ruff Stuff housings front and rear, with 80 innards and outers, and can see no quicker way to mar the industrial beauty the the axles will be, than stringing some cobbled cable across the rear of it.
Have thought if a split case brake surfaced, I'd pick one up to eliminate.....one did......so I did..... But wondering if there's any reason not to use it, and/or any other known solutions (not line locks) that cost stupid money, aka are elegant.

I know nothing about elegant, sophisticated or stylish but why would the cable “need” to run across the rear of your rear? A sleeved push/pull cable doesn’t care if it’s routed up with your hydraulic lines and depending on your load requirements a 3" bend radii is possible giving your rear that urbane look you desire!

More info on cables and design criteria,
http://orschelnproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/HP-Control-Cables-Hardware-Catalog.pdf

 

[GLTHFJ60]

This was brief?

I thought it was.

Both the 60 and the 80 use the same shared pull cable. It'd likely that you can add a mounting point for a pull cable end on each side, building yourself an e-brake setup similar to a late model 14 bolt, similar to this:

 

[Delancy]

I know nothing about elegant, sophisticated or stylish....

Says the man with a 'Pig' sportin' COs and triple bypasses on all four corners.

While it may sound simple enough (edited: or I may be overthinking it...) the RS housing is physically larger with the rear of the pumpkin, for lack of better, further from the tubes.

The backing plates have the levered spring mechanism that pulls at a 90° to the plate.... (Mounted on RS housing)

So it'd take a similar orientation to the DS rear hub cable, on both sides, which doesn't work when the links terminate, damn near, where the cable exits the cab. Not enough straight distance to tie the two together. (Realize that prolly doesn't make sense)

Looked at late model Cruiser-ish (GSJ15. )hubs that run cable down the links on both sides, and the cable mounts to backing plate accordingly, but back to not having the room (as I see it) to tie two cables together in a linear plane, at the ebrake handle.

Next logical consideration was driveshaft brake/disc brake at the TC output shaft, OR the split case ebrake should one surface.

I know they're said to be junk (yet to drive the Pig with one on it) but hopefully suffice as ebrake.

Good info on the cables, though!!

Have the lockers to contend with, at some point, and not the foggiest clue how best to address, yet.

 

[Delancy]

Both the 60 and the 80 use the same shared pull cable.

Let's assume that the TC brake is sufficient, but still running 80 outers/disc.

Would it be worth hunting a rear disc option that didn't have the drum, or keep it simple and strip all brake, redo backing plate to clean up the unnecessary ebrake components?

 

[Delancy]

Back to the original query.

Is it feasible to think that a more accomplished welder/sheet metal fabricator, could section in a late model fender onto an early?

It'd achieve enlarging the wheel well by going above the cowl, is the thinking.

Wonder if the same would be possible, using DS front on PS rear?

Gain would be around 3" of tire coverage, since the newer model bubble out, for lack of better. Plus it appears ('cause I don't know what is feasible with sheet metal) that it'd be a clean transition.

 

[Delancy]

If this matters.

Older

Newer is 55 3/8" from same points.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

SO, you're NOT coming to cali? I gotta make a run to stockton before too long; I could buy you some lunch and a beers

 

[J Mack]

Says the man with a 'Pig' sportin' COs and triple bypasses on all four corners.

I only “need” the new “Pig' sportin' COs and triple bypasses on all four corners” because the old pig with single King’s flips my Dutch Bro’s Caramelizer out of the cup holder when I hit the speed bumps.

Back to the original query.

Is it feasible to think that a more accomplished welder/sheet metal fabricator, could section in a late model fender onto an early?

It is feasible to think a true accomplished welder/sheet metal fabricator could build a late fender from scratch or at the very least piece something together to look as good as or better than factory but I can’t imagine it would be feasible to do so on a true off road “hard core rig” at the going shop rate for true craftsmen.
If you’re building a SEMA show crawler with cup holders then you’re talking my language but unless you’re doing the work yourself or have big piles of expendable cash it’s going to be hard to drive a “hard core rig” as intended with custom one off hand fabricated OE’ish fenders.

I would think you would be time and money ahead to cut you’re fabricator lose with his imagination and let him build you some purpose built stylish fenders

 

[Delancy]

SO, you're NOT coming to cali?

Cali, yes....

stockton

Stockton.....unfortunately, no.

Couldn't fit me in, man, and I started to feel like a weird Beiber-ish groupie hounding.

Promises of vast amounts of cold, hard cash and even the rare Pig's ass, didn't sway.....mebbe next time.

If/when the call comes, I'll sell something to make it happen, even if an arm, leg, kidney or kid.

cup holder

You had me right there.

Well worth the price of admission.

I can’t imagine it would be feasible to do so on a true off road “hard core rig” at the going shop rate for true craftsmen.

Here's the deal.

A Land Cruiser enthusiast, first and foremost and, by right, off-road second.

That said, I've always wheeled with the intention of preserving, to the best of abilities, the vehicle.

If it happens on this, so be it. It's only metal, but if the goal were a true rock donkey, that I could roll, flip over, and carry on, I'd be a bidder on something like your retired U4 car.

you’re talking my language and I volunteer to make this fender mashup work. I'll PM address that you can ship a donor set of old and the new.

DUDE!! Thanks, Jim.

I can send the fenders AND a complete 70 body, to use firewall as the jig, and you can keep for a RHD to LHD or whatever conversion you want.

it’s going to be hard to drive a “hard core rig” as intended with custom one off hand fabricated OE’ish fenders.

One item to note is 7-8" of tire acting as a bumper, since it sticks that far past the fender.

Gonna have worse problems than just body work, should they ever contact anything.

I would think you would be time and money ahead to cut you’re fabricator lose with his imagination and let him build you some purpose built stylish fenders

Not possible with the current enlistee....

Sheet metal ain't his thang.

 

[Delancy]

Hats off, once again, to @orangefj45.

Hopefully the retainer will be here, today, to assess condition and get whatever else is needed to swap this out, soon.

Thanks, Georg!!

 

[J Mack]

A Land Cruiser enthusiast, first and foremost and, by right, I’m in need of serious mental help!

I briefly bought into your Land Cruiser enthusiast, first and foremost and, I could have bought two houses in my state for what’s left of my “Land Cruiser” cost me to build.



Lesson learned, ideology is an expensive a game I can’t afford to play, Toyota looking Chevy’s from here on out!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Have thought if a split case brake surfaced, I'd pick one up to eliminate.....one did......so I did..... But wondering if there's any reason not to use it, and/or any other known solutions (not line locks) that cost stupid money, aka are elegant.

T case mounted brake is fine on level ground with good traction.
Offroad or on mud, they are unreliable and dangerous.
Offroad, if one rear wheel is unloaded or on low traction surface, the diff can rotate and the truck can shift. In steep conditions this can be spell disaster.

I've used these calipers for a rear disc brake conversion.



They are from a late 70's early 80's GM sedan from Australia, but I'd be surprised if they didn't come from GM north America parts bin.

The have a cable operated e-brake built into the caliper. The cable pulls a lever that acts on the caliper piston. Self adjusting, very simple to set up.

 

[Delancy]

I'd be surprised if they didn't come from GM north America parts bin.

They do, on El Dorados.

Be it right or wrong, primarily a parking brake, and hope the drum brake is sufficient to serve as.

The manual and no experiences wherein I was reliant upon an e brake may provide a false sense of security, but the same split case brake on another Cruiser is (as reported by builder who is driving it, as I haven't seen in two years) sufficient.

That said, local driveline tech and I have discussed using the well used backing plate and drum to explore a vented disc and hydraulic caliper possibility, ala the pinion brakes he's familiar with on the domestic 'buggy' builds common to the area, on which they serve as the only brake.

I doubt necessary, but have the used parts and he's the experience, so no point in not exploring the option.

 

[Delancy]

@Flipper1938

I hold you responsible for this, so lemme know where to send the bill.