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- #1,141
Mine just came with copper crush washers with one flat side and one angled side about 1/4" thick.
I asked the injection shop and they said that was all this engine had.
He is still having the issue.
Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
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I asked the injection shop and they said that was all this engine had.
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- #1,142
I took the truck on a 600kms trip last night and today. Fought with progressively worse and worse power and tear able fuel consumption. I was at a loss as to why the sudden change.
This morning on my pre trip inspection I found the culprit. It turned out I may have forgotten to tighten the v band that holds the CHRA to the turbine. I saw a sooty burn on my oil drain and traced it back to the v band. I was able to spin the nut by hand so it was way loose. I tighten it up and then also found my coolant overflow completely full. I power my high point blender and found no coolant in the upper rad hose..... Great. Went through my bleeding procedure that is still a work in progress as to what and how to position the truck to get all the air out. One the water was pored back in the level in the overflow was back to where it was when I did the coolant last weekend.
We started out 300km trip home and after about an hour I stopped (off road light load) and it looked fine.
A plus one here is this turbine swap really woke up the turbo!! I just needed to get rid of the massive pre turbo leak that the loose v band had created. Feel like an idiot. Anyway I have boost as soon as I touch the accelerator and 12psi by 2000 and 17 by 2400rpm with EGT's topping out at 1050f. So yeah looks like the 6cm turbine was the trick.
Back to my coolant pushing into the overflow. It does it under load almost right away. With in 5min of boosting it will almost fill the bottle. I refill the rad and watch a steady stream of bubbles and froth come out once the t stat opens.
So blown HG or cracked head?
I'm going to go over everything tomorrow if I have time and make sure I am not missing anything or have a air pocket somewhere.
Fix one thing run smack into another.
This morning on my pre trip inspection I found the culprit. It turned out I may have forgotten to tighten the v band that holds the CHRA to the turbine. I saw a sooty burn on my oil drain and traced it back to the v band. I was able to spin the nut by hand so it was way loose. I tighten it up and then also found my coolant overflow completely full. I power my high point blender and found no coolant in the upper rad hose..... Great. Went through my bleeding procedure that is still a work in progress as to what and how to position the truck to get all the air out. One the water was pored back in the level in the overflow was back to where it was when I did the coolant last weekend.
We started out 300km trip home and after about an hour I stopped (off road light load) and it looked fine.
A plus one here is this turbine swap really woke up the turbo!! I just needed to get rid of the massive pre turbo leak that the loose v band had created. Feel like an idiot. Anyway I have boost as soon as I touch the accelerator and 12psi by 2000 and 17 by 2400rpm with EGT's topping out at 1050f. So yeah looks like the 6cm turbine was the trick.
Back to my coolant pushing into the overflow. It does it under load almost right away. With in 5min of boosting it will almost fill the bottle. I refill the rad and watch a steady stream of bubbles and froth come out once the t stat opens.
So blown HG or cracked head?
I'm going to go over everything tomorrow if I have time and make sure I am not missing anything or have a air pocket somewhere.
Fix one thing run smack into another.
Ahh that's great and super crappy news! Sheesh man I feel for ya, serously, and why bubbles now? It does sound pretty severe too. Could be either head or HG, but more likely HG I'm guessing.
Check with one of these or something similar http://www.blockchek.com/ results are always correct, removes all doubt.
my impression is that a positive is always correct and a negative is usually correct. in this case it is probably correct.
Really sorry to hear about this, btw
I would imagine going down the road of a false positive from a test kit is something most people would not enjoy travelling. I have got a similar kit in the shed and it has saved a lot of people a lot of time & money over the years. The kit will show the smallest leak. Quick google search reveals they can be had for $50 from Napa and some YouTube vids on how to use them or you might be able to borrow one from a mate.
The other usual questions that I'm sure you've already been over a thousand times; What pressure is your cap and is it holding pressure in the system? Does it all suck back in when it cools off? Temperatures? Anti freeze ratio?
And that bleeder arrangement, I must be starting to get old but that would drive me nuts, most of the successful OEM systems with the thermostat housing at the high point use a small expansion/purge tank with a radiator cap that is just higher.
If you had your system bled of air, and there is air in it again it would either be sucking air in from some sort of leak instead of recovering from the recovery bottle as it cooled or have a compression leak into the coolant. And if there is air or gases getting in there it cant purge itself via the overflow/recovery process because that doesn't happen at the highest point during normal operation.
Now don't get me wrong, I have a FJ80 gxl @435,000km tourer with a turbo'd 355 & 700r4 with all the good gear that I want to put a diesel in to improve range, our trip last year to Cape York avg 3.9 km/l towing a 1500 kg camper trailer over 7,500km, our planned trip for '15 to the Kimberly's is approx. 15.000 km. Remote area fuel can be up to $3.00 per litre x 240ltr tank and petrol is not available in some places . I also have a 78 fj45 @1,100,000 odd km I've had her for 20yrs, 19 yrs with a 318v8 on lpg & 770,000km, and the last few months with a 4bd1t & Isuzu 5spd splitter box ( had a npr400 given to me) and was really surprised by how well it goes, going form 4 km/l to 9 km/l really improves the range, then I stumbled in here looking for how this motor would go in an 80. I must say you have done an impressive job converting your rig so far, it's just that last little bit.
The other usual questions that I'm sure you've already been over a thousand times; What pressure is your cap and is it holding pressure in the system? Does it all suck back in when it cools off? Temperatures? Anti freeze ratio?
And that bleeder arrangement, I must be starting to get old but that would drive me nuts, most of the successful OEM systems with the thermostat housing at the high point use a small expansion/purge tank with a radiator cap that is just higher.
If you had your system bled of air, and there is air in it again it would either be sucking air in from some sort of leak instead of recovering from the recovery bottle as it cooled or have a compression leak into the coolant. And if there is air or gases getting in there it cant purge itself via the overflow/recovery process because that doesn't happen at the highest point during normal operation.
Now don't get me wrong, I have a FJ80 gxl @435,000km tourer with a turbo'd 355 & 700r4 with all the good gear that I want to put a diesel in to improve range, our trip last year to Cape York avg 3.9 km/l towing a 1500 kg camper trailer over 7,500km, our planned trip for '15 to the Kimberly's is approx. 15.000 km. Remote area fuel can be up to $3.00 per litre x 240ltr tank and petrol is not available in some places . I also have a 78 fj45 @1,100,000 odd km I've had her for 20yrs, 19 yrs with a 318v8 on lpg & 770,000km, and the last few months with a 4bd1t & Isuzu 5spd splitter box ( had a npr400 given to me) and was really surprised by how well it goes, going form 4 km/l to 9 km/l really improves the range, then I stumbled in here looking for how this motor would go in an 80. I must say you have done an impressive job converting your rig so far, it's just that last little bit.
Great that the turbo is working out. Topping out at 1000F means you can crank this thing up a lot more.
I guess I'll keep plugging away at swapping mine...
I guess I'll keep plugging away at swapping mine...
Sucks about the coolant.
Have you considered trying one of these:
When you get the above sorted out at least you get to turn up your fuel a little.
Honestly I would have thought that it would have boosted harder at the lower RPMS.
Dougal is such a fanboy for that turbo setup.
I do have a line on a Big 16G fancy wheel (same as I am getting manufactured) that is direct bolt up designed for the TD04HL.
Might get you boosting harder earlier if your looking to tinker more. Throw me a text for the details.
Have you considered trying one of these:
When you get the above sorted out at least you get to turn up your fuel a little.
Honestly I would have thought that it would have boosted harder at the lower RPMS.
Dougal is such a fanboy for that turbo setup.
I do have a line on a Big 16G fancy wheel (same as I am getting manufactured) that is direct bolt up designed for the TD04HL.
Might get you boosting harder earlier if your looking to tinker more. Throw me a text for the details.
That is a lot of compressor for that little turbine. You would need to give it as much energy from the exhaust as possible, but I still think your drive pressures would high. I recently came across a twin scroll td04l radial turbine with a 19t that I thought was a mismatch, but it is still not as extreme as your suggesting.
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- #1,150
As a former 1fz owner I have one of those HG tester kits from my old spares kit. I'm going to test it in a few min here.
I'm kind of surprised at my loss of fuel economy recently. I'm going to monitor it a bit more and see if it continues. Looks like I have lost 4ish MPG. At the moment but I have had some issue mainly the turbine v band being loose for part of the last tank.
I drove the truck up to Chilliwack to get my Cruisn off road sliders and t case skid installed. Driving on the hwy gave me a good test of the new turbine. At 100km/hr I have 720f EGT's and 6-9psi depending on the flatness of the road. If I tip my foot in to the throttle boost jumps right away to 16-17psi and EGT's do not go past 1070f after 2-3min. The 6cm turbine swap is what this engine and turbo needed. Truck maintains speed much better on hills now too.
I'm kind of surprised at my loss of fuel economy recently. I'm going to monitor it a bit more and see if it continues. Looks like I have lost 4ish MPG. At the moment but I have had some issue mainly the turbine v band being loose for part of the last tank.
I drove the truck up to Chilliwack to get my Cruisn off road sliders and t case skid installed. Driving on the hwy gave me a good test of the new turbine. At 100km/hr I have 720f EGT's and 6-9psi depending on the flatness of the road. If I tip my foot in to the throttle boost jumps right away to 16-17psi and EGT's do not go past 1070f after 2-3min. The 6cm turbine swap is what this engine and turbo needed. Truck maintains speed much better on hills now too.
If you are like me, you lost mpg's because you like boosting too much. haha
Well, at least the turbo looks like it is going to do the job. I still think the timing is off or something is not right, just based on how you describe it starting. Mine was like that for a long time. Once I got it timed right it made a big difference. I've offered it before but if you want the digital timing light adapter, I can send it by mail. I'd put a dial indicator down through the injector bore on cyl 1, verify the TDC markings on the balancer, and put it together and run it to see how close you are. Failing that, Dougal's method of advancing it until it sounds like a can of marbles and backing it off until it quiets down is probably a good way to go.
i am curious to see if you advance the timing and the difference it makes.
Not to mention your overall end tune and how much it changes your turbos performance.
Not to mention your overall end tune and how much it changes your turbos performance.
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- #1,154
Yeah I will take you up on that generous offer. It sounds like the easiest way to check/set it.
Well see. Right now it feels fairly good.
Tested the head/HG tonight.
Tried it 5 times each time was negative. I have read that these tests only work on Gas engines not diesels?
My bleeder was bubbling and foming for 30min once the t stat opened, no idea what is going on now.
Work just the same petrol or diesel, only changes colour when carbon dioxide is present. Looks like a good result.
I'd fit the pressure gauge to the system like you did before & go for a drive. See what pressure it is when it pushes fluid.
I'd fit the pressure gauge to the system like you did before & go for a drive. See what pressure it is when it pushes fluid.
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How is longbow's valvebody working out ? Your not having any issues there are you ? Do you have to watch your turbo and egt's when your in low rpm lockup under load ?
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- #1,157
It's working great, really impressed with it. If and when it locks at low rpm in OD the EGT's will get hot in the past. But now the turbo lights off much faster and the EGT's are cool.
So what's the change-log at now? Got the 6cm housing and advanced timing?
Jeremy-
Congrats man on getting some more boost! Hey I'm curious on your boost numbers...are those with the TC locked up and under load? Maybe I need to start saving for one of them there 6cm housings...
Andy
Congrats man on getting some more boost! Hey I'm curious on your boost numbers...are those with the TC locked up and under load? Maybe I need to start saving for one of them there 6cm housings...
Andy
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- #1,160
Just 6cm housing, was away camping all weekend. Found the loose turbine to CHRA v band in camp and tightened it. Made all the difference. Before it would struggle to get 12psi now it easily hits 18psi and EGT's are much cooler. It's night and day to the 7cm on this setup, tip in boost is much faster to build, more boost by almost 5psi and cooler EGT's.
I'm going to check and adjust the timing when I get the timing light adapter in the mail.
Fuel economy is still down quite a bit so I need to try and track that down. I'm in the 20L/100km range again for some reason. No visible smoke at all out the tail pipe. So not sure what is going on there.
