Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

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FWIW...we had a bit of cold snap here last week. I started the cruiser at 25-28F with no glow plugs. It needed some extra throttle to start and keep going for 15 sec, but was fine after that. I was pleased. I did get lots of smoke the first cold start, but bear in mind this is the first diesel I've ever really had and the first time I've ever started it cold...so I gave it a lot more fuel than it needed probably.

Hoping you get to an easy resolution on your coolant gas issues. It makes me worry about mine as I think out engines are darn similarly positioned and I have never really bled mine other than parking it on a slight uphill when I filled it. Hope I'm not frying the thing, but gauge seems to be working without issue.

I might need to drive up there before Christmas and use Fromage's timing light while its on this side of the continent...
 
Wow, I've never managed to burn 20 litres/100km. I've hit 15-16 twice. While towing another vehicle on a trailer. About 3 ton.
 
Dont take this wrong but do you think the old housing might have come loose too , and in fact cannot be compared . Plus could it be that your torqueing might be associated with the overheating? Wether its a head bolt , ip , or a hose clamp.. I've seen all three cause the same issues .
 
Dougal said:
Wow, I've never managed to burn 20 litres/100km. I've hit 15-16 twice. While towing another vehicle on a trailer. About 3 ton.
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Yeah I was surprised to see it that bad. I'm going to monitor it for a few tanks and see what it does. We did also s*** h to winter diesel in the last month so maybe that is part of it.
wrongway around said:
Dont take this wrong but do you think the old housing might have come loose too , and in fact cannot be compared . Plus could it be that your torqueing might be associated with the overheating? Wether its a head bolt , ip , or a hose clamp.. I've seen all three cause the same issues .
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Nope the old housing was good an sealed not issues there. The v band was not tightened due to distractions when I did the turbine swap and lack of time. Head bolt torque is good I checked them a month ago, engine has not gotten hot since the rad swap in September. All the heater hoses and clamps are tight and sealed. No leaks of coolant at all anywhere.
 
Drove it again tonight, seems to be starting better when cold with out glow now. Not sure what changed that but I'm not complaining. Such a pleasure to drive now that I have the boost and slow boost response sorted. I have not even turned up the fuel, still topping out at 1050f at 18psi.

Also still getting air out of the cooling system. I'm going to dry a diesel specific HG/head test solution in the next week I hope. I'm also going to weld a rad cap to the upper rad hose that is my high point in the system. With it there the rad cap will actually do its job and purge air out of the system instead of all my coolant.

Fingers crossed that resolves the issue.

Anyone see a drop in economy when winter diesel hits the pumps?
 
Your compression numbers will keep improving for a while yet. That'll help your starting and fuel consumption too.

My setup runs a small line from the highest point (T-stat housing) to a remote reservoir with the 15psi radiator cap. This may be easier to fit in. Because the line is small it doesn't hold much volume and self-bleeds well.

My winter fuel economy is always worse. Engines take longer to warm up, oil is thicker, air is thicker. Everything is against you really. IMO winter diesel is one of the smaller players in fuel economy.
 
Dougal said:
Your compression numbers will keep improving for a while yet. That'll help your starting and fuel consumption too.

My setup runs a small line from the highest point (T-stat housing) to a remote reservoir with the 15psi radiator cap. This may be easier to fit in. Because the line is small it doesn't hold much volume and self-bleeds well.
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Yeah I have looked at a few of those as well. It's a possibility, I think I have room for the rad cap on the upper housing. I'm going to do a playdough clearance test tomorrow.
 
I have always seen worse mileage in winter even in Texas. I imagine they put additive up your way so the fuel doesn't gel so your actually not getting a legit gallon or liter of diesel when bought. Block heater will help if you have one installed.
 
ForealBoreal said:
You did repiston.
Its going to take some time I figure.
I am still very curious on your injection timing.
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Yes new Clevite pistons. It's got about 2400kms on it so far. Timing will be checked shortly, Formage is sending his timing light adapter to me.
 
Awesome job documenting your work, it is much appreciated. I have completely disassembled (frame off) my 80 and will soon start rebuilding for a 4BD. In your thread here and on 4BTswaps (and the other 80 swap threads) from what I understand it is standard to mod the oil pan for clearance. What I haven't learned is why? Is it hood, trans tunnel, firewall clearance or a combination? I am planning on 440 split case as well.

I ain't a fearin' ta cut in the hood and do something totally rad! Seriously though it seems like smarter time management to cut the pan instead of modding the body or hood, but I am in no hurry and have it all torn down. If anything maybe I can improve your morale by asking an easy to answer question.

950-72119.jpg
 
dirtyboots said:
Awesome job documenting your work, it is much appreciated. I have completely disassembled (frame off) my 80 and will soon start rebuilding for a 4BD. In your thread here and on 4BTswaps (and the other 80 swap threads) from what I understand it is standard to mod the oil pan for clearance. What I haven't learned is why? Is it hood, trans tunnel, firewall clearance or a combination? I am planning on 440 split case as well.

I ain't a fearin' ta cut in the hood and do something totally rad! Seriously though it seems like smarter time management to cut the pan instead of modding the body or hood, but I am in no hurry and have it all torn down. If anything maybe I can improve your morale by asking an easy to answer question.

950-72119.jpg
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Well on the 4BD1T there is no oil pan modifications required. I did none and have lots of clearance. No need to put a silly hood scope or any other hood mods. This engine fits very easily and with quite a bit of room to spare.

I have a A440 and a stock 97 80series t case. Why are you going with a split case?
 
dirtyboots said:
Awesome must have remembered a different swap for the pan mod. Deleted ABS, adding locking hubs, and NWF black box for the split case.
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Maybe thinking of a 4BT swap?
 
dirtyboots said:
Awesome must have remembered a different swap for the pan mod. Deleted ABS, adding locking hubs, and NWF black box for the split case.
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The 4BD2T will require one of the side bumps to be cut off.

I don't even think the 4bt needs any pan mods. It really comes down to engine positioning. It's a balancing act, I had my adapter made with a 7* tilt and that ended up being too much I actually went with 5* till to the drivers side in the end. This allows room for the turbo and break booster and on the other side throttle bracket and firewall. The forward back positioning was dictated by the transmission mount and factory cross member.

Good luck with your swap!
 
So today I had to open my RTT and let it dry from my camping last weekend. Since it was open for a few hours I wanted to look over few things. Mainly try a bleed to air out of this damn thing. I started with the engine cold and let it warm up purging air as it went. Put quite a lot of coolant in it. But the air kept coming. I ran it for 1.5hours thermostat opened a few times right at 180f and it was a frothy air filled mess each time. Turn off engine and the bubbles stop, start engine and they start again right away. I stopped it at one point burped all the air out so there was nothing left. Then started it again and right away with in 10sec a stream of bubbles again. There is no way there could not be that big a bubble in the system and it not have worked it's way out.

So I'm hoping it's just a head gasket that got messed up when it overheated. I'm praying it's not a cracked head.

I do not know what else could be causing it.

I also discovered my loss of fuel economy.... My injection pump is leaking. It looks like it's coming from the seam in between pump body and the timing cover mounting plate. I get a drip of fuel every 5sec and in the 1.5hours it was running in my driveway it leaked enough to make a mark 6ft long by 3ft wide on my sloped driveway. So it's significant. I'm going to talk to the shop that rebuilt and re sealed it to see what they say.

More sigh's
 
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