Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (4 Viewers)

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I just ordered two of the gaskets since I do not remember seeing one on the pump outlet as well. Should be here mid next week. :cheers:
 
So small update and a big step in the project.

Last night I removed the engine from the assembly stand and installed it onto my run stand. From there I was able to bold on the rear seal hosing with new seal, rear bell housing and flywheel/flex plate combo (no torqued). I then went ahead and silicone and bolted on the oil pan only to spend the rest of the night lamenting the fact I had not investigated the lack of seal between the oil pump pipe and block. So the pan will come back off once the parts arrive (there is in fact supposed to be a seal). Other than that slight set back its feels great to have it on the run stand. At this stage I’m a few hours away from a test fire, just need to get a few things torqued and installed. I only plan to run it for a 30sec or so to make sure it runs and does not have any crazy noises or so on. I will crank it before with no Glow Plugs to get oil circulating before actually firing. Once that’s done it’s onto the trans adapter and converter mods. I also plan to get 90% of the wiring done on the run stand to make sure it all jives. I may even make a flying lead harness to make sure it’s all working with the truck before even getting it in.





I also got the pipe I got welded the other night painted and the final coat on the valve cover harmonic cover. Plan to get both those on in the next few days. No updates this weekend as I am replacing a timing chain seal, oil pan seal and valve cover seals on my Wifes 2006 Mazda 6.
 
You can pull the cover and then the drive gear for the oil pump off the side of the block and use a socket and impact gun to spin the oil pump. The oil pump drive gear runs off the cam shaft.

Also I noticed on your picture that the turbo oil drain isn't attached. Is your block different or is it just not attached?
 
Dazed said:
You can pull the cover and then the drive gear for the oil pump off the side of the block and use a socket and impact gun to spin the oil pump. The oil pump drive gear runs off the cam shaft.

Also I noticed on your picture that the turbo oil drain isn't attached. Is your block different or is it just not attached?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure the oil drain fitting from the turbo is in the oil pan, which isn't attached to the engine yet in that pic.

Looking good, keep with the updates and the pics!
 
Dazed said:
You can pull the cover and then the drive gear for the oil pump off the side of the block and use a socket and impact gun to spin the oil pump. The oil pump drive gear runs off the cam shaft.

Also I noticed on your picture that the turbo oil drain isn't attached. Is your block different or is it just not attached?
Click to expand...

Yeah I was not able to find a socket that fit, Ill just have to use the starter and crank it with no GP.

The turbo drain is the same as all the 4BD's mine is just still masked off and covered with tape.
 
So been working on it each night after work.

I got the valves all adjusted and the valve cover in place as well as the sonic cover with all new gaskets and sound seals.



made a notch in the sonic cover to aide in instalation.







I then started installing my injection lines, the broken injector stud came in and the injector was installed with out issue.



Went to install the fuel return line and ran into an issue.



Cross threaded bolt so I also ordered new OEM crush washers and the cross threaded bolt.



I then moved onto cooling, I had a Griffin Aluminum rad from an old project car of mine that had been used for 200kms and swapped. It was like new just 10 years old. The inlets and outlets are placed in the correct orientation the size is also right. its overall about 5" narrower than the stock 80 series rad and that's good.



The hope is I can modify the inlet and out let on the intercooler to wrap around the end tanks of the rad.





Plan to work on that once the swap is under way anything done there now would be premature.

I then dropped off the oil pan and installed the seal I was worried about then re re sealed the pan last night.

I also installed the filter to cooler line for my oiling system.



Had to make a custom cap head screw to secure it.

 
Last edited:
Got some more parts in last week too.







Since the engine sounds like a tractor.......



And Dakota Digital Tach adapter (found out later I needed the sensor so ordered that on its own)

 
I have to tell you, that first pic looks like a work of art. You should somehow figure out how to get that under a glass coffee table for a bit.
 
Love watching your work on this engine and overcoming all the hurdles. It really is a stout-looking diesel. I like the direct-mounted oil pressure gauge too, is it staying there?
 
Falco80 said:
Love watching your work on this engine and overcoming all the hurdles. It really is a stout-looking diesel. I like the direct-mounted oil pressure gauge too, is it staying there?
Click to expand...

Thanks! glad you are enjoying it. I plan to leave the oil gauge there, I will also have the stock toyota gauge working too for what its worth. Im going to also try and set up the stock Isuzu oil warning light switch as a engine cut incase of a loss in oil pressure. So when the switch would normally turn on a warning light it actually kills the engine to prevent damage. Toyota uses it on all there older diesel engines and i think its a great idea. Well see how that works out.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Im going to also try and set up the stock Isuzu oil warning light switch as a engine cut incase of a loss in oil pressure. So when the switch would normally turn on a warning light it actually kills the engine to prevent damage.
Click to expand...

I'd be a little careful with this.... what if it turns your engine off at a critical moment ie when passing a large truck...... a loud audible alarm, yes, but something that has autonomous control over your running engine, not for me...

Keep up the great thread :cool:
 
ozwallaby said:
I'd be a little careful with this.... what if it turns your engine off at a critical moment ie when passing a large truck...... a loud audible alarm, yes, but something that has autonomous control over your running engine, not for me...

Keep up the great thread :cool:
Click to expand...

I agree. Most engines will run for quite a long time with no oil pressure before anything catastrophic happens. Most turbodiesels I have seen run low or out of oil cook the turbo long before any bottom end bearing damage occurs. A loss of functioning turbo is a very noticeable indicator there is a problem for most drivers.

Quite a few 5.9 Cummins engines have been run with zero oil pressure because the oil filter base/cooler gaskets have several different port designs that are easily installed wrong if you aren't aware of this. The wrong gaskets can even look like the correct ones if you don't have the old ones to compare. Of the local shops I know who've done this, some for 30+ minutes of driving, none of the engines suffered any damage.
 
ozwallaby said:
I'd be a little careful with this.... what if it turns your engine off at a critical moment ie when passing a large truck...... a loud audible alarm, yes, but something that has autonomous control over your running engine, not for me...

Keep up the great thread :cool:
Click to expand...

69rambler said:
I agree. Most engines will run for quite a long time with no oil pressure before anything catastrophic happens. Most turbodiesels I have seen run low or out of oil cook the turbo long before any bottom end bearing damage occurs. A loss of functioning turbo is a very noticeable indicator there is a problem for most drivers.

Quite a few 5.9 Cummins engines have been run with zero oil pressure because the oil filter base/cooler gaskets have several different port designs that are easily installed wrong if you aren't aware of this. The wrong gaskets can even look like the correct ones if you don't have the old ones to compare. Of the local shops I know who've done this, some for 30+ minutes of driving, none of the engines suffered any damage.
Click to expand...

Both good points I had not thought of. I just know Toyota did that on there 2H and 3B diesels, it was a 5psi switch that if after starting it would give the engine 5sec to build that pressure before turning it off. If after 5 sec it had not built up pressure it would kill the engine.

I may just set it up to a buzzer, would be a lot easier for sure.

Thanks guys.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Both good points I had not thought of. I just know Toyota did that on there 2H and 3B diesels, it was a 5psi switch that if after starting it would give the engine 5sec to build that pressure before turning it off. If after 5 sec it had not built up pressure it would kill the engine.

I may just set it up to a buzzer, would be a lot easier for sure.

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

you could do an engine/fuel cut off relay. If you want to have the best of both, run the low oil to the buzzer and a time to open relay, which would then go to the fuel cut relay. Would be better if the low oil has a 5 second delay relay too.

Low oil, buzzer starts buzzing, you have ten(or whatever) seconds to pass or pull over and then the engine cuts out.
 
cody c said:
you could do an engine/fuel cut off relay. If you want to have the best of both, run the low oil to the buzzer and a time to open relay, which would then go to the fuel cut relay. Would be better if the low oil has a 5 second delay relay too.

Low oil, buzzer starts buzzing, you have ten(or whatever) seconds to pass or pull over and then the engine cuts out.
Click to expand...

I was actually going to run though this little controller.

http://www.aartech.ca/elk-960-elk-variable-delay-timer-module.html

Its got a 5-60 second adjustment was going to set it for 10sec so the engine would start and built pressure. The idea of using a second one to give me a adjustable amount of warning before shut down would be nice too. Unfortunately it gets up there in complexity and cost for something I want as simple as possible.

I ordered one of these today to hook into the oil pressure switch.

http://dx.com/p/ad16-22sm-mechanical-buzzer-w-red-indicator-dc-12v-146684

Should get my attention if oil pressure drops while driving, will probably also be annoying as all hell starting it before it builds pressure.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Damn! Yeah that would have been good to know about 2 weeks ago.

Any idea what they cost though?

Shoot, wish I had known.
Click to expand...

About $700. Shipping to Canada from South Africa is also a bit of a pain (they told me they've only done it twice, and one of the packages didn't make it).
 
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