Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (1 Viewer)

[Wheelingnoob]

Jeremy,

On my 4BD2, the turbo oil feed comes from the filter head and supplies freshly filtered, and somewhat cooler oil to the turbo. If you tap into the oil supply somewhere else, the possibility of a small piece of crud going to the turbo is higher.

Is this a problem, not sure. But oil, directly after filtering also supplies the IP pump which is a high precision part too.

I would try to supply the oil from clean side of the filter.

Doug

Yeah my feed stock comes off the clean side of the filter as well. I would think teeing into the vac pump feed would have clean filtered oil as well. It just gets the oil from the oil galley on the other side of the engine. I may just leave that all stock for reliability sake and keep the turbo oil feed where it is factory.

Thanks,

 

[longbow]

Also on that oil feed for the vacuum pump there is a small orifice in the fitting to restrict oil flow to keep pressure up throughout the system. I don't know if the flow would be enough for a turbo through that orifice, and if you open it up enough to flow it may drop your oil pressure.

Since I am using hydroboost on my 40 I'm going to use that feed for a bypass oil filter unit that I have, but I'm keeping the orifice as is.

Don

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Thanks Don, I think I'm going to use the stock oil feed location. I did not realize there is a restrictor built into it, makes sense i cant see the vac pump needing a lot. Ill see how I can tie the oil feed for the turbo into my new oil pipe from filter to cooler.

Thanks,

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Had a few hours last night to work on the engine. I’m at the slow stage now of custom work. Up till this point it was all bolt on and things went quickly, now I am designing and making parts. Part of the issue is its hard to make some of these bit without the engine in the engine bay. I have no spaceill reference points. So a lot of these parts are made to a point where I can easily change them once in the truck or not completed till in the truck. Last night I started on the mounting flange for the main oil feed from the filter head to the oil cooler. The stock piece was cast and we cannot get a good weld onto cast it seems so I am remaking that part. It’s got a few challenges, one its thick I used 1.5” x 1.5” bar as a starting point. The next challenge is the O ring groove I do not have a lathe so need to get someone to do it for me. Last is getting the oil feed for the turbo placed in a way that does not interfere with anything else.

I started by using a centering punch to get the mounting holes placed like the stock one and started drilling.



I was able to get both holes drilled fairly easily last night, I now need to take it and get a machine shop to put a O ring groove in it and then drill out the middle for the oil. I hope to get that done next week.

From there I moved onto heater lines. I just can’t see myself running 4ft of heater hose in a large loop around my turbo and stuff, it’s just not my style although very effective. So I started looking at some other engines such as my 1FZ in my truck now, Toyota uses hardline for as much as possible to minimize potential problems. It also keeps things nice and neat. So I started playing with my home made tube bender and some .75” OD 1/16th wall pipe. I bent as tight a 90* in the one end as I could without crushing the tube. From there I looked for possible mounting points along the exhaust side of the engine, there are 3 two are usually used to secure the turbo to intake manifold pipe (not used) and one is unknown. I decided to use the rear and front most for the mounting tabs.
View from the front:

Side, the one with no bend will go to the port below the T stat and attach via a rubber 90* elbow.



Brackets to hold pipes in place, just testing placement here.

Possible cut line for the tubes, I ended up staggering them slightly to allow room for the hose and clamps.


In a design induced insomnia last night I thought it all through and think I may be better off to stack to the two pipes rather than have them side by side as pictured. My reasoning for this is twofold, first it gives me more room against the firewall (I hope) and secondly it allows me to take the turbo water-cooling feeds off those lines. The stock feeds will be plugged and eliminate some long pipe runs. All I can do on this now till it’s in the engine bay is remake the mounting tabs to a vertical mounting position. Once it’s in the engine bay and all sorted out it will be removed for powder coating.

I was also able to swing by a friends fab shop last night and roll beads on the ends of the pipe to further aide in there attachment to the rubber hose.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Nice work on the home made pipe bender, very simple, but clever!. I'll be borrowing that idea for sure!

A tip for your bender, to prevent the little indents in the pipe from the post on your bender, cut a short length of heavier pipe in half lengthways and place it between the post on your bender and the pipe you're bending to spread the pressure point.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Nice work on the home made pipe bender, very simple, but clever!. I'll be borrowing that idea for sure!

A tip for your bender, to prevent the little indents in the pipe from the post on your bender, cut a short length of heavier pipe in half lengthways and place it between the post on your bender and the pipe you're bending to spread the pressure point.

Yeah, I had the same idea. I did this bender fast as a proof of concept. I plan to adjust it now to prevent that indent as well as a few other changes. None of these water pipes are 100% set design wise till I get the engine into the bay. I have a growing list of things that I can not finish till its in the engine bay.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Ok so a weekly update.

I have been working on it for a few hours each night after work the last two days. Making the final push to get the engine to a point I can test fire it. But I have been crippled with trying to make a hard pipe from the filter housing the to the oil cooler housing. Its got two angles one is 90* and the other is a read tilt of 10-15*. For the life of me I cannot get this pipe close enough to TIG. I have made 3 different pipes and each one I have over or under trimmed or not got the angle just right. If I was mig welding it would be no problem but I am worried about leaks with a mig weld.

Here are a few pictures showing my process.

Oil cooler flange 1.5” X 1.5” hot rolled. Using the drill press with a hole saw bit to make a O ring groove. Worked awesome.




Pipe side


From there I trimmed off the excess and taped it to 1/8th NPT for a mechanical oil pressure gauge and turbo oil feed.



I did the same out of ½” plate for the lower. I then needed to find a way to make it portable so I could take it and get it TIG welded. Some 1/4” steel rod to the rescue (this is after about 2 hours making a jig that did not work at all 



And off the engine but still maintaining the required shape.



The gap I am fighting back and forth with….



So after all that wasted and frustrating time I needed to move onto something I knew would be no problem…. Install my newly rebuilt and balanced injectors. So I install the copper crush seats and slip them in and start tightening the nuts down to 15ft/lbs all goes well to the second to last nut and its not feeling the same right off the bat. It will not get the torque and I know its stretching compared to the other and it finally let loose.





With that I called it a night…..

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Man o man, look how much that thing stretched!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Man o man, look how much that thing stretched!

Its not as bad as it looks, there is a section in the middle that does not have threads and is tapered I can only amuse to keep you from over tightening it.

 

[jb BJ73]

Its not as bad as it looks, there is a section in the middle that does not have threads and is tapered I can only amuse to keep you from over tightening it.

Man I hate it when that happens, especially exhaust studs

Is it not possible to fill in that gap with your tig? Haven't used a tig yet myself

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Its not as bad as it looks, there is a section in the middle that does not have threads and is tapered I can only amuse to keep you from over tightening it.

I don't know if 'stretch bolts' were in vogue already when this engine was built, but, if that were a stretch bolt, which often have a tapered section with some engineered weakness built in, the objective is for the bolt to have a spring-like tension.

Typically these are supposed to be thrown away after removal and replaced with new bolts.

Over in the VW community there is an unfortunate cult of stretch bolts. Any number of different bits of hardware here and there are referred to as stretch bolts that probably aren't. Often, VW or Bentley will recommend new bolts for an R&R just on principle, is my perception, but this is not to say that the bolts were designed as stretch bolts or that they were torqued to such tension that they are likely to have stretched.

So, there are innumerable online vendors that sell maintenance kits, and invariably one or two of them will bundle all new bolts and claim that they are stretch bolts and should be replaced. This makes people feel extra responsible when performing their own maintenance and makes the vendor a few extra bucks. And then the rest of the vendors end up following suit.

It's stupid.

The first time i changed the timing belt on my Mk4 1.8T, the Internet Wisdom was that i should replace all three motor mount bolts as they are stretch bolts.

I bought my parts from a good local vendor who did not have any motor mount bolts.

So i went to the dealership, where the parts guy explained that they had never ordered a set. Because they reuse them 100% of the time. Because they are perfectly normal cadmium plated shoulder bolts.

That belt was at 35,000 miles (water pump failed) and i put three more belts on it using those same motor mount bolts every time, over the course of more than 100,000 miles, before someone ran their subaru into me on I15.

Below is a photo of the four subframe cradle bolts from a Mk5 Golf / Jetta / GTI / GLI chassy. The weird ones are stretch bolts, and you can see where the upper one has been visibly stretched. Exactly where it is supposed to stretch.

This design, fwiw, is a bunch of nonsense. The subframe cradle was designed with a significant amount of side to side play for some reason (ease of assembly maybe? Just sort it out when you do the front end alignment?), and the stretch bolts (torqued to 54 ft/lb) are an abject failure at keeping it from shifting around on hard cornering.

The B6 Passat has the same subframe cradle, same bolts, and same problem. There is a VW TSB specifying that drivers complaining of this issue should have installed a kit containing some spacers with grippy spots on them between cradle and frame, and some regular shoulder bolts, torqued a bit harder.

That also does not work.

At this point i have a very expensive kit to install that includes four CNC milled bronze bushings that eliminate the subframe cradle play and two ARP M12 shoulder bolts.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Sorry Slim i need to digest that a bit lol.


In other news I was able to get the pipe welded!

Tested for leaks and all good. I need to take a rat tail file to the insides to clean it up a bit but other than that and a coat of paint its done.

Onward.....

 

[longbow]

Looks great Jeremy!

Love the ingenuity of the hole saw for the o-ring groove!

Don

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Looks great Jeremy!

Love the ingenuity of the hole saw for the o-ring groove!

Don

Yeah I was planing on sending it put to a friend with a lathe but I like doing things I know I can do myself so started looking for alternatives. I was cleaning up the tool box and realized I had a hole saw that was almost the perfect size. I was worried it would leave to rough a finish but it turned out great! My fabricator friend that did the TIG welding for me was very impressed with the way it turned out too and laughed when he heard I used a hole saw.

I will admit a few things on this build so far have had me thinking out side the norm for tools and fabrication.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Just dropped my 14" 6061 Aluminium disc off at a company that is going to water jet and lathe the step into it for my adapter (trans the Isuzu bell). I got the spec's from Longbow (Don) and am using 90% of those for mine with a few experimental changes. If they do not work I can have the ring cut down to the same spec's as Longbow used. I'll get into more details once I get it back and start the remaining work. If it works it will help space my engine forward another 1/4" and allow for a slight change to the adepter for the converter.

Ordered my gages for this engine today, I got the GlowShift Maxtow line Diesel EGT (1500f), Boost 35psi and trans temp. I was able to get blems on there outlet store on Ebay, got them all for a little over 50% off.

I also ordered a Dakota Digital DSL-1 tach adapter. I will use this to convert the signal from the injection pump sensor on the front of the timing case to the stock Toyota tach.

I'm almost done the "buying parts" stage of the swap and just need to get it all together.

 

[bluehawk]

Hi there Jeremy, Haven't read your entire thread yet but it looks to be really informative. Gonna start from the beginning this weekend and read the whole thing from start to finish. Looks like you have some good skills for fabing up things. Will post up after reading.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Hi there Jeremy, Haven't read your entire thread yet but it looks to be really informative. Gonna start from the beginning this weekend and read the whole thing from start to finish. Looks like you have some good skills for fabing up things. Will post up after reading.

Enjoy the read, most of it so far covers the rebuild of the engine and a few bumps along the way. Thanks on the fab props, most of it is just trial and error, fortunanlty I have had lots of projects before to get most the error out of the way.

I have been following yours for a few months now, looking good.

 

[cody c]

I'm almost done the "buying parts" stage of the swap and just need to get it all together.

Hehehe. Ya, me too, shouldn't need to but anymore parts soon.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Something has been bugging me since I got the bottom end together. The pipe that goes from the oil pump to the block oil galley does not have a seal or O ring on the pipe to block connection. I did not get one with my gasket kit nor is there anything shown in the manual. I'm finding the manual severely lacking in some regards and this is a main one. I checked an on line Isuzu parts site and they show a gasket from the pipe to pump but nothing from the pipe to block in there diagram, when I check that seal part number is says a quantity of 2 required?!?! I just took the engine off the engine stand last night and put the rear of the engine together as well as the oil pan.... I would much rather remove the pan now to install a gasket than deal with lack of oil pressure because of a missing gasket if it in fact needs one? HELP

 

[69rambler]

There is a thin gasket at each end of the pump to block oil tube.