- Thread starter
- #361
Ouch, OK I'll stick with what I have. Only got $220 into all the gauges.
Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
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Ouch, OK I'll stick with what I have. Only got $220 into all the gauges.
Jeremy - this is an amazing build.... it also reinforces my belief that I can never accomplish myself what you have done here in those last 18 pages - brilliant work. Good luck wit the rest of the build - we'll all be watching with interest.
- Thread starter
- #363
Thanks for stopping in and reading through. Mine is much more involved than most partly because I cant leave well enough alone and secondly I want to do it right the first time. "Pay once, hurt once"
I didn't know how much the Madman gauge cost, thought it was around $400, but I finally found the other one I read about:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19
I did also find this:
http://www.enginewatchdog.com/
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19
I did also find this:
http://www.enginewatchdog.com/
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- Thread starter
- #365
I have seen those, nice units but difficult to mount anywhere. What I have now will do. I find usually once you have everything set they do not change so the gauges need to be relied app on less. The simple LED buzzer will be sufficient for oil pressure warning. Im fighting with my own desire to know what is going on with my need to keep it simple (KISS).
- Thread starter
- #366
Got a bit more done on the engine this week/weekend.
I drilled and tapped my manifold for the EGT probe and got the prob positioned right in the middle of the exhaust stream.
Then I installed my flywheel tooth sensor for the tach.
Backed it out from touching 3/4 turn (about 1/16th)
Turbo oil line ran and positioned
Crank damper installed and torqued to 315ft/lbs crank nut and damper marked to visually tell if anything moves.
Wix coolant filter head mock up ( will wait till the filter arrives to finish.
Fittings installed for water filter and turbo water cooling.
I spent the day today cleaning out our shop from top to bottom. Got things organized a lot better and everything cleaned even the hoist. Reason for that and how it pertains to this is it means I'm getting ready to bring the truck over and start the actual swap. Im just waiting on a few parts before I bring the truck over to start the swap. I hope to get the trans adapter made up this week possibly. I also (if my parts show up from Isuzu) hope to start the engine next weekend.
I drilled and tapped my manifold for the EGT probe and got the prob positioned right in the middle of the exhaust stream.
Then I installed my flywheel tooth sensor for the tach.
Backed it out from touching 3/4 turn (about 1/16th)
Turbo oil line ran and positioned
Crank damper installed and torqued to 315ft/lbs crank nut and damper marked to visually tell if anything moves.
Wix coolant filter head mock up ( will wait till the filter arrives to finish.
Fittings installed for water filter and turbo water cooling.
I spent the day today cleaning out our shop from top to bottom. Got things organized a lot better and everything cleaned even the hoist. Reason for that and how it pertains to this is it means I'm getting ready to bring the truck over and start the actual swap. Im just waiting on a few parts before I bring the truck over to start the swap. I hope to get the trans adapter made up this week possibly. I also (if my parts show up from Isuzu) hope to start the engine next weekend.
Looking good bud!
As for the coolant filter, where are you tying into for the supply and return?
I haven't really searched this much but have heard of it... What's your main reason for it and how long do the filters last?
As for the coolant filter, where are you tying into for the supply and return?
I haven't really searched this much but have heard of it... What's your main reason for it and how long do the filters last?
- Thread starter
- #368
Thank you!
For supply and return its tied onto the fitting closes in the last picture that is the return. The feed is feed off the old turbo coolant feed by the water pump.
Main reason for doing it was you saw how rusty this things cooling system was. Secondly I saw how badly plugged my rad was on my truck when I got it. Thirdly it cant do any harm, its cheap so why not. I like to go overboard on things as I'm sure is evident
As for interval of changing most say 40k miles. Im sure my first one will fill up fast. So will probably change it within 10k kms. The only way I know of to tell if its plugged is to feel if it gets hot along with the coolant or not.
Here is that cone filter I talked to you about Jereme. It worked great to catch big stuff that would clogg your rad. It flows well and does a good job as a full flow filter. I accidently left it in when I towed my trailer this summer in my 1fzfe and coolant temps didnt suffer. That debris is about half the size of a pea from my 3B. Pretty big actually. I was shocked when i saw it. That was after the rad flush too.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/544287-suggestions-1hdt-coolant-flush.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/544287-suggestions-1hdt-coolant-flush.html
- Thread starter
- #370
Here is that cone filter I talked to you about Jereme. It worked great to catch big stuff that would clogg your rad. It flows well and does a good job as a full flow filter. I accidently left it in when I towed my trailer this summer in my 1fzfe and coolant temps didnt suffer. That debris is about half the size of a pea from my 3B. Pretty big actually. I was shocked when i saw it. That was after the rad flush too.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/544287-suggestions-1hdt-coolant-flush.html
Yes I am defiantly going to do that for the first few 1000 kms, do not want the rad getting all plugged up. The other filter I'm putting in is just a filter to maintain the coolant and keep particles form building up. I plan to flush the cooling system after the first couple thousand kms when I remove the mesh filter. Before any of this gets used though the engine is getting a good flush with the garden hose to flush out anything that broke loose since I had the block cleaned. The heater cores in the truck are going to get a good back flush too once I get the 1fz engine out.
Still got that mesh cone?
Yeah I sitll do. Let me know when your working on it over the next week and Ill come over with it for ya. It looks retarded, but worked really well. I did a back flush on my heater core plumbing and got disturbing amounts of crap out from them. They put out way more heat after. I think they were very clogged. That bypas filter is a great idea and will maintain your system really well. Your motor might shed scale for quite some time as the pics you showed from when you recieved it were pretty nasty.
- Thread starter
- #372
Awesome, plan to be working there tonight and Wednesday night. I'm now out of things to work on till some parts come in.
I got a surprising amount of what looked like sand out of my heater cores when I back flushed them last. I think this coolant bypass filter is a great way to maintain the cooling system for minimal cost ($50 total). I have no doubt that this engine will have lots of crud coming out of it no mater how well I tried to clean it when it was apart.
If you mix green with red or pink, the acid in the red/pink causes the silica in the green to drop out as pretty much literally sand.
- Thread starter
- #374
Yeah, mine was full of it when I first got it. I completely flushed the system 2-3 times and then filled with new red. I think I am going to do the same again and just fill with regular green. There will be no Red/Green mixing going on. The main concern at this point is just stuff working free from the engine since it was such a mess on the cooling side. I know the rad is clean and do not want to have it get plugged up.
Donaldson has done a lot of work on cooling system filters and they have some good info on there effectiveness on there web site. I know that almost all my cooling system issues in the past have been due to contaminates in the coolant plugging things up.
I've been watching your work for a bit and love your steady push, I get bogged down from time to time on my projects.
I am collecting parts for same swap so thanks a million.
A far as your coolant filter, isn't that the thermostat housing, thus no flow until it opens? You mentioned the t-stat or upper connection was your return,,,,that should be the inlet or pressure side, hot coolant is pumped into the block at pump and out the top rad hose?
Anyway super work and thanks again for all your work.
I live a bit south in western WA. I hope I can repay you someday.
Butch
I am collecting parts for same swap so thanks a million.
A far as your coolant filter, isn't that the thermostat housing, thus no flow until it opens? You mentioned the t-stat or upper connection was your return,,,,that should be the inlet or pressure side, hot coolant is pumped into the block at pump and out the top rad hose?
Anyway super work and thanks again for all your work.
I live a bit south in western WA. I hope I can repay you someday.
Butch
Coming along really nicely, can't wait to see the finished product!
- Thread starter
- #377
Thanks, I have gotten bogged down in projects in the past and know how that goes. This one I am pushing all the time to try and get it done, do not want this to be a long drawn out affair.
I have been fighting trying to figure out the flow of the cooling system. I picked the two lines that I have because they are the same ones used by the stock motor to cool the turbo. Also I believe that the hot water flows out of the engine on the top rad hose ( if cold water flowed into there the T stat would be continually closing with the inrush of cold water). Honestly though I had the hardest time trying ot visualize the flow of the this cooling system. If this filter is only filtering when the T stat is open that's ok, not idea but I do not have many other choices.
Yes you are not far away at all, if when done and I am driving by I could stop in and you could see it for your self. We travel down there a fair amount.
Thanks me too, getting really pumped to see how it all comes together.
- Thread starter
- #378
I'm going to leave the coolant filter plumbing and mounting till I have the engine in the truck now the way I had it plumbed it was going to be a high point in the cooling system and that would not work.
Last night I talked to my Turbo Builder and he is going to have the turbo done Friday or Monday for me. He is also going to CNC my engine to trans adapter. he is going to map out both the bell housings on a CNC maping machine, supper high accuracy and then make a CNC file for the cutting machine. Its going to cost me a bit but it will be 100% dead on. That will be done in 2-3 weeks, he is trying to clump it in with a big CNC order so the cost is less.
So back onto oils, I have Moble Dalvac for break in (dino oil). I plan to change that oil out after 500kms to get out all the junk that will be suspended in it. Now my next oil change I want to be a full dino oil as well (for another 5000kms) but I am planning on going back to Winnipeg for Christmas (inlaws and 2600kms each way) and am worried about how think dino 15W40 gets at -25c, its like Molasses from what I hear. I do not think I will have enough mileage on it to comfortably switch to full synthetic oil at that stage though. Synthetic oils handle cold temps like what we may see back there much better. My hope is that I can get 5000kms on it before I go but knowing how engine swaps go it maybe a tall order. If I can get that mileage on before I go I will swap to full synthetic at that oil change.
I have already set up my engine for a 1500W circulating coolant heater and am looking at getting the stick on oil pan heaters (125W) for both the oil pan and trans pan. My hope is that the combination of those will keep the engine warmish if its gets cold, that time of year it could be -45c or it could be -5c, I just do not want to get stuck out with a frozen up engine.
Last night I talked to my Turbo Builder and he is going to have the turbo done Friday or Monday for me. He is also going to CNC my engine to trans adapter. he is going to map out both the bell housings on a CNC maping machine, supper high accuracy and then make a CNC file for the cutting machine. Its going to cost me a bit but it will be 100% dead on. That will be done in 2-3 weeks, he is trying to clump it in with a big CNC order so the cost is less.
So back onto oils, I have Moble Dalvac for break in (dino oil). I plan to change that oil out after 500kms to get out all the junk that will be suspended in it. Now my next oil change I want to be a full dino oil as well (for another 5000kms) but I am planning on going back to Winnipeg for Christmas (inlaws and 2600kms each way) and am worried about how think dino 15W40 gets at -25c, its like Molasses from what I hear. I do not think I will have enough mileage on it to comfortably switch to full synthetic oil at that stage though. Synthetic oils handle cold temps like what we may see back there much better. My hope is that I can get 5000kms on it before I go but knowing how engine swaps go it maybe a tall order. If I can get that mileage on before I go I will swap to full synthetic at that oil change.
I have already set up my engine for a 1500W circulating coolant heater and am looking at getting the stick on oil pan heaters (125W) for both the oil pan and trans pan. My hope is that the combination of those will keep the engine warmish if its gets cold, that time of year it could be -45c or it could be -5c, I just do not want to get stuck out with a frozen up engine.
I only believe in synthetic oils period.
There seems to be a lot of info out there about breaking in an engine wtith Dino and then switching to synthetic afterwards. Well, I don't subscribe to that theory. Both of my engines were started with synthetic and have been run on it since startup. It does take longer for the engine to break in with synthetic, but breaking in is just wearing in of the rings and bearings etc. and I don't mind if it takes longer( about 4 to 5k miles on mine) because I plan on running these engines as long as I can before rebuilding again.
The only changes I saw with my engines due to break in we're increased mileage and smoke reduction.
Also I have started my truck down to 17 degrees F with no block heater and two 20 second glow plug cycles. I run either Amsoil 15/40 marine diesel or sometimes Mobil1 15/50. Both of these oils have the proper zinc levels for flat tappet engines. With a block heater you should be fine. With a pan heater it will start up like its summer!
Whatever you choose to do for oil will be fine I'm sure. These are just my choices that have worked for me.
Don
There seems to be a lot of info out there about breaking in an engine wtith Dino and then switching to synthetic afterwards. Well, I don't subscribe to that theory. Both of my engines were started with synthetic and have been run on it since startup. It does take longer for the engine to break in with synthetic, but breaking in is just wearing in of the rings and bearings etc. and I don't mind if it takes longer( about 4 to 5k miles on mine) because I plan on running these engines as long as I can before rebuilding again.
The only changes I saw with my engines due to break in we're increased mileage and smoke reduction.
Also I have started my truck down to 17 degrees F with no block heater and two 20 second glow plug cycles. I run either Amsoil 15/40 marine diesel or sometimes Mobil1 15/50. Both of these oils have the proper zinc levels for flat tappet engines. With a block heater you should be fine. With a pan heater it will start up like its summer!
Whatever you choose to do for oil will be fine I'm sure. These are just my choices that have worked for me.
Don
Isn't the main point in break-in oil that you need a different additive mix? A lot of molybdenum and zinc iirc? I recall my engine builder friend freaking out and doing a lot of research some years back when GM sent out a service bulletin announcing that their list of recommended break-in oils was null and void due to changes in the formulation.
I am not an expert by any means.
I am not an expert by any means.
