Is the 200 Series Frame Prone to Rust? (1 Viewer)

[AnyMal]

Rust is one of the main reasons why I wont live on the east coast or midwest.
Killing your car is just another Fing tax for being there. I care about my things and in the rust belt cars are practically disposable.
I cant be chasing brine half the year.

 

[katit]

There are some in NH or even in MA. I go DIY route. Not too bad of a project and I know it's done thoroughly. They sell an excellent sprayer kit. The first application is the worst, each one after that is essentially touch up as Corrosion Free stuff lasts really well.

Wish I had a lift though...

I have lift but don’t do and don’t allow friends to do this in my garage. I keep things clean and I’d rather spend some time outside laying on plastic/tarp than smell and clean this stuff in garage

 

[unclemat]

Rust is one of the main reasons why I wont live on the east coast or midwest.
Killing your car is just another Fing tax for being there. I care about my things and in the rust belt cars are practically disposable.
I cant be chasing brine half the year.

Preach, brother. Might move out of here one day.

Half of my fleet sleeps in winter. Driving season here is like 6-7 months max. Keeping other in shape requires effort. Doable and can keep the car clean beyond its useful life. i3 is a perfect car for this: aluminum frame, carbon fiber body structure, plastic body panels. Almost nothing to rust.

The really problem is overuse of road salt. They totally overuse salt here, at totally insane, uncessary levels. This stuff pollutes water and ground and never disappears. This cannot continue forever, but for the time being the idiots here demand black surface roads regardless of conditions. The answer is pretty simple: winter tires, and just don't go when you do not absolutely need to. World will not end if take a pause when mother nature interferes. If not, it will come around and bite us in the ass. Already is.

 

[AnyMal]

Preach, brother. Might move out of here one day.

Half of my fleet sleeps in winter. Driving season here is like 6-7 months max. Keeping other in shape requires effort. Doable and can keep the car clean beyond its useful life. i3 is a perfect car for this: aluminum frame, carbon fiber body structure, plastic body panels. Almost nothing to rust.

The really problem is overuse of road salt. They totally overuse salt here, at totally insane, uncessary levels. This stuff pollutes water and ground and never disappears. This cannot continue forever, but for the time being the idiots here demand black surface roads regardless of conditions. The answer is pretty simple: winter tires, and just don't go when you do not absolutely need to. World will not end if take a pause when mother nature interferes. If not, it will come around and bite us in the ass. Already is.

Seriously. Nobody plows anymore. They just dump what basically amounts to toxic waste on the roads as if its going out of style.

The reason i had to give up my 470, which I'm STILL mad about BTW was rust serviceability.
I bought it for a decent price before the overland scene really exploded but once I left NYC in 2019 and actually had a chance to get a nice newish LX 570 locally in TX, I dumped that POS. I got really lucky making that move when i did as I practically stole my 570.

I dont care what ANYONE has to say. The 2005-2007 100 LX-470 is the best ****ing Land Cruiser ever offered in multiple regards.
Its from the era before Toyota stopped trying. If you compare a 100-200, there is actually more missing from the 200 than previous model. And that trend is continuing.
At least if you gave up your SFA from your 80 to 100, you would have gained a hell of a whole lot for the trade. The 200 didnt gain anything but weight.

If i could get into a 100 that isn't falling apart or obscenely overpriced, I would in a heartbeat.

Point of the story, F SALT.

 

[blaise]

I finally finished a coat of Corroseal. It is kind of a hassle trying to get it in all the nooks and crannies, but it really did take care of the surface rust. Looks pretty good for the moment.

I need to followup with a coat of fluid film, or some corroseal touch up, probably next week.

 

[NewLCGuy]

I finally finished a coat of Corroseal. It is kind of a hassle trying to get it in all the nooks and crannies, but it really did take care of the surface rust. Looks pretty good for the moment.

I need to followup with a coat of fluid film, or some corroseal touch up, probably next week.

Did you just applied it directly on the rust or scraped the rust off and then applied? Thanks

 

[blaise]

Did you just applied it directly on the rust or scraped the rust off and then applied? Thanks

My rust wasn't too bad, just surface & not to the point of flaking off - so just power-washed & applied directly.

Hopefully it doesn't return after the Fluid Film is applied.

 

[redeye]

I was very disappointed when I looked under my 2021 Cruiser and discovered surface rust on many weld areas. I haven't looked at the KDSS valve but will do so soon when I'm installing my sliders. At the time I looked I had less than 2,500 miles on the truck. Hit as much of the front suspension areas with a wire brush and spot painted but really, really wish I didn't need to do this. I am in NJ though, so Fluid Film and bi-annual "quality" time on my vehicle undercarriages are a constant.

 

[linuxgod]

I was very disappointed when I looked under my 2021 Cruiser and discovered surface rust on many weld areas. I haven't looked at the KDSS valve but will do so soon when I'm installing my sliders. At the time I looked I had less than 2,500 miles on the truck. Hit as much of the front suspension areas with a wire brush and spot painted but really, really wish I didn't need to do this. I am in NJ though, so Fluid Film and bi-annual "quality" time on my vehicle undercarriages are a constant.

Make sure they're not rusty (if they are then hit with a wire brush and make sure they will turn), then coat the KDSS screws with some good quality marine grease. I live in salty Chicago and after 5-6 winters mine still look virtually new and turn without issue. I don't worry about the rest of the KDSS system

 

[04UZJ100]

I was very disappointed when I looked under my 2021 Cruiser and discovered surface rust on many weld areas. I haven't looked at the KDSS valve but will do so soon when I'm installing my sliders. At the time I looked I had less than 2,500 miles on the truck. Hit as much of the front suspension areas with a wire brush and spot painted but really, really wish I didn't need to do this. I am in NJ though, so Fluid Film and bi-annual "quality" time on my vehicle undercarriages are a constant.

The frames could sit naked outside for months in Japan. It’s normal.

 

[redeye]

@linuxgod oh for sure. My sliders will arrive next week, and during install while I'm spending quality time underneath my truck I'll be taking care of that KDSS valve. No doubt.

 

[Bunga]

Its normal and not in keeping with a top tier brand and vehicle. After a few ski trips it looks worse than my old tahoe that was driven all winter long. The muffler is the same way. I had an x5 that looked better after 10 years than mine after 1 winter with the same driving conditions. I would never trade it, and it is the only problem I've had, but it is lame.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I'll play. I said I'd never buy a truck from the North East again after my 100-series from PA. But I found what looks to be a very clean 200 in NJ. My dad took a look at it today. It has the usual surface rust on the frame welds and some of the skid plate brackets. Everything else looks clean. And the front half looks like a West Coast truck. But definitely much more rust than our '19 Volvo from the GA or our '12 Hyundai and '14 Jeep that spent their lives in Socal.

I'd prefer that our cars stay brand spanking new underneath forever, we live in Richmond, VA now. Not a lot of snow or road salting, but much wetter. Things won't stay pristine like they did in CA.

What do you think? Is this one good for being 3yrs old, or keep looking?

 

[blaise]

Looks great IMO.

 

[stonepa]

I'll play. I said I'd never buy a truck from the North East again after my 100-series from PA. But I found what looks to be a very clean 200 in NJ. My dad took a look at it today. It has the usual surface rust on the frame welds and some of the skid plate brackets. Everything else looks clean. And the front half looks like a West Coast truck. But definitely much more rust than our '19 Volvo from the GA or our '12 Hyundai and '14 Jeep that spent their lives in Socal.

I'd prefer that our cars stay brand spanking new underneath forever, we live in Richmond, VA now. Not a lot of snow or road salting, but much wetter. Things won't stay pristine like they did in CA.

What do you think? Is this one good for being 3yrs old, or keep looking?

Id say that frame only has about 25 more years in it.

 

[GoISU]

I don’t believe that 200’s are more prone to rust. I think the products sprayed on roads has gotten nastier in recent history. I had a FJC for ten years and all the fasteners and heat shields were decaying. Frame was fine (no holes but it was unsightly) but when I stepped up the a 200 I knew I couldn’t let this thing get wrecked like my FJ did. Did my research and discovered what I needed to do…

Fluid Film, Fluid Film… Fluid Film. If you want to prevent rust or stop it in its tracks spray it every year. Cheap insurance. If you can find one buy a southern truck, close second would be a truck from the salt belt that’s been FF’d every year. Here’s a couple pics of a Tacoma that’s about 10 years old. Whole life in Chicagoland where they lay salt by the ton and spray brine on the roads when they “think it may snow the next day”. First pic is after a winter and when the guy cleaned the FF off the suspension in the spring. The UCA’s only had one or two winters when the pic was taken but the spring and the rest of the frame have done hard time in the salt. Zero rust present. This stuff works. First thing I did when I got my ‘13 from TX was spray it with FF. Been spraying dozens of trucks in Wheaton IL every year since 2017.

 

[yonah]

Here are pictures taken by my cousin of the undercarriage. These are the only places with any rust visible. None really noted on the frame. To my it doesn't look that bad but I would like to hear from those on here with way more knowledge and experience than myself. Sorry for the poor image quality. View attachment 2765885View attachment 2765886View attachment 2765887View attachment 2765888View attachment 2765890

For the sake of posterity due to this being a late reply, the KDSS components have numerous machined surfaces that are not painted - this is nothing new to those on this forum. A few of your photos capture some of those areas. My 2021 had light surface rust in the same spots, when I first looked under the vehicle in my garage with 40 miles on the odometer; I drove it home the day after it was delivered to the dealer. I would venture to guess all 200s were the same condition when they rolled of the ship in CONUS. I never will understand why Toyota did not apply some sort of coating and/or grease in those areas. Regarding your photos, a little Fluid Film, Woolwax, or Surface Shield would be the solution.

The control arm and chips in the paint (at the tailgate area) are easy fixes and no real concern whatsoever.

I don’t believe that 200’s are more prone to rust. I think the products sprayed on roads has gotten nastier in recent history. I had a FJC for ten years and all the fasteners and heat shields were decaying. Frame was fine (no holes but it was unsightly) but when I stepped up the a 200 I knew I couldn’t let this thing get wrecked like my FJ did. Did my research and discovered what I needed to do…

Fluid Film, Fluid Film… Fluid Film. If you want to prevent rust or stop it in its tracks spray it every year. Cheap insurance. If you can find one buy a southern truck, close second would be a truck from the salt belt that’s been FF’d every year. Here’s a couple pics of a Tacoma that’s about 10 years old. Whole life in Chicagoland where they lay salt by the ton and spray brine on the roads when they “think it may snow the next day”. First pic is after a winter and when the guy cleaned the FF off the suspension in the spring. The UCA’s only had one or two winters when the pic was taken but the spring and the rest of the frame have done hard time in the salt. Zero rust present. This stuff works. First thing I did when I got my ‘13 from TX was spray it with FF. Been spraying dozens of trucks in Wheaton IL every year since 2017.

View attachment 2779575

View attachment 2779576

I agree with everything stated in your post.

I believe the salt products that local governments are spraying on the roads are likely more corrosive than in decades past. I’m sure there is some serious lobbying done at the state and local level by these salt distributors and the general public just goes along with the salt standard quo. It’s a real shame the environmental impacts of road salt/brine have not been exploited to stop this - especially due to the fact that green/sustainable practices are en vogue. One would think it’d be an easy fight. I simply think most people do not care or really understand the problem. As some in this thread have already stated, proper tires, patience, and a level head are 90% the solution to winter driving.

At the current time, I’m down here in VA and the road salt seems to be fairly tame when compared to what you guys in the NE and Midwest experience. Your photos are very promising - thank you for sharing. I just finished applying a mix of Blaster Surface Shield (new lanolin product on the market), Woolwax (HV), and CRC Rust Inhibitor to my 2021. The truck wept lanolin out of the frame, etc. for the better part of a month after I sprayed it. The process was a real PITA, but 100% worth it and I’d do it again in a heartbeat. It really is great hearing your feedback and seeing the results from a decade of use . The proof is in the pudding, or in this case the lanolin.

Sure it’s a mess to the touch, but I’ll take my greasy, sheep oil-saturated undercarriage over one with even a slight amount of surface rust.

 

[m3fan]

There are a couple of comments here about 100 vs. 200 series corrosion- make no mistake the 100 series is a million times worse and the body gets really, really bad. That said not structural and even after 140K+ miles and 12 years of salt my 05 LC was always solid, quiet, safe, and smooth. That 2005 LC, 100% midwest car, by the time that thing was 10yrs old it looked like a coral reef underneath and I had to deal with body rust at all corners and almost all the doors and hood and rear hatch, upper and lower, nightmare. There are pockets at all 4 wheel arches to collect and retain leaves and mud and moisture and rust is guaranteed on those. Rust-o-rama on the 100 series. Same with every midwest 100 I looked at while buying that one. It was the "least rusty" so it "won". The amount of time I spent under that thing with a needle scaler and POR-15 is time I will never get back. Brutal.

On the BODY the 200 has way less susceptibility to rust, so far it seems. Lots more plastic in the wheel arches, actual liners in the front fenders, simpler back tailgate (e.g. wiper comes out of the window in back vs. through steel, less holes for the rear latch because it's electric, etc.) and underneath things are holding up really well on my 14. I've Fluid Filmed every year, a job I absolutely loathe, but it seems to be worth it.

All of this said 99% of customers are not going to worry about cosmetic frame rust, as such neither will financiers nor insurance companies nor any dealers, nobody but us cares, seriously.

 

[ToothDr]

The frames could sit naked outside for months in Japan. It’s normal.

Wasn’t normal on the 1994 80 series we bought new nor on our new 1987 60 series.
Never saw any surface rust on my new 2001 4Runner. Don’t think it matters either way.