Is My Rack Blown?

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How low is the reservoir?
I had the same issue with my 98 while I was in Mexico on vacation, I put some Lucas power steering leak stop and never had any issues after that.

A.J
 
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It does not sound good.

Here is what I'd do: First check rack gear by raise just the one wheel off the ground. Use a video camera or have a helper. Grab wheel at 9 and 3 on the clock. Twist wheel back and forth while watching to see if play between rack & TRE. It's hard to see but doable, but don't be fooled by whole rack moving it is designed to. If you've remarkable play in your rack gear then it's shot, replace it.

If not:

Is boot swollen from fluid setting in it? Yes you've a leak.

Clean boot and any oil spots & top power steering reservoir as normal with ATF, mark level with piece of tape cold or hot. Now watch closely for few days/ miles for leak. See if level dropping an by how much.

Confirm leak is from rack and not spillage or other leak..

If leaking you've two choices: Either replace rack or add ATP At-205 re-seal. Re-seal replaces an additive that seal manufacture use during manufacturing process which dries out over time. Run for 5 hours the exact amount direction state to use. If leak stop you my have just bought years. You can leave AT-205 in or flush after the five hour of run time.

I flush often: FWIW: Steering Flush & Cleaning
Note: most stop leaks or high mileage oils are designed to stop leaks are petroleum based. These are not good for your seals in the long run, I avoid then.
Re-seal is good for old dried out seal according to manufacture seals which ATP Automotive is.
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I second the ATP AT-205. It's like magic snake oil... fixed my rack leak and the leak at my tcase front output shaft oil seal.
 
I want to believe in AT-205...and definitely 2001LC's endorsement carries a lot of weight. If you go on Amazon it has many good reviews...but what do people think about all the negative reviews saying how it made things worse? Amazon.com: Customer reviews: ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

I have a very slow rear main seal leak (drop or two every week). Keeping an eye on my power steering--unsure if it's got an issue, but it's greasy where the supply line goes to the pump. Safe to use in these scenarios...?
 
I spoke with manufacture and they convinced me. They make the seals and this is what they use to make them. If it does not work your only out $10. Better than a new rack. If seal is rip or worn out it will not work, but if only dry it will. Hope you've been using ATF in the first place. I love the M1 MV full synthetic ATF in my power steering, and I flush often. I'm now doing every 10K mile, as I like it clear.

I just had one rack a Dealer had put Zmax in, I could not believe how good the old fluid looked. I may start using that stuff, but normal I don't use any additives.

This is not like a high mileage oil. Those are like crack, you'll never get off after two flushes.

The AT-205 should only be used once in ten years or IIRC. Use as direct don't over do it.
 
I finally checked for play in my rod ends this morning and it is pretty bad. DS TRE play was ridiculous. I realize it gets exaggerated by larger tires, but thinking how much of a difference the new rack made on my little Honda Civic I can't wait to do this.
PS had play as well, but seemed much "slower" or somehow damped - not sure if that makes sense?
 
Pull your dust covers back of your inner track rod ball joint and see where the play is, you can change just the inner joint itself. But if you want a new rack then it would probably be cheaper in the long run.
 
Pull your dust covers back of your inner track rod ball joint and see where the play is, you can change just the inner joint itself. But if you want a new rack then it would probably be cheaper in the long run.

The play is in my inners, and now I am leaking as well. Rack has about 165k on it, proabably original 1999 hardware, so I am guessing those seals are feeling a little old...
 
We pay a lot more over here for a rack in the Uk, but the job looks a lot easier being RHD to the LHD version you have. So when the time comes I will look into it myself as mine is original at 180,000, I did have a report of leaking rack but when I pulled the dust covers back they where bone dry, so I think the dealer just wanted some extra work. Are you going to tackle it yourself?
 

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