Is anybody still interested in a center console? (2 Viewers)

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Aeneiad said:
The start frame describes me. :doh:

I'll go back to doing some research to figure out a decent spot to wire up to an ignition source.
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no worries, we all start somewhere!

Depending on if you're a smoker or not, the cig lighter can be a good source of ignition switched power.
 
Aeneiad said:
The start frame describes me. :doh:

I'll go back to doing some research to figure out a decent spot to wire up to an ignition source.
Click to expand...
Also, be SURE to fully protect those wire connections on the bottom of the relay to avoid any possibility of shorting out the main power wires if something in the console comes in contact with it.
 
Household voltage in the US and Canada is 120/240 (literally 240VAC split-phase with a center/neutral tap on the transformer (on the pole). One leg of 240VAC to the neutral (not ground!) will give you 120VAC.

household voltage in a lot of other places (Europe, Russia) is 220VAC (yup, at the plug).

There is no “110”. that’s the voltage on an electric motor rating plate. If the voltage gets that low, something is wrong, but at least the motor and wiring will be adequately-protected at the stated current draw (amps).

Oh yeah, volts burn, amps kill. If volts killed, you’d never survive a 20,000 volt static discharge from waking across carpet in wool socks.
 
Delta VS said:
no worries, we all start somewhere!

Depending on if you're a smoker or not, the cig lighter can be a good source of ignition switched power.
Click to expand...
There are also typically “spare” or “aux” fuse protected circuits in the fuse panel.
 
Delta VS said:
We have them, just don’t have any decent pics of them installed!
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There still aren’t any decent pics. I guess this will have to do for now.

869E8266-D492-473B-90EA-7413BA3AA153.jpeg
 
You can use an add-a-fuse in your fuse panel by your left knee. Just pick a circuit that only gets power when the key is on, then use the add-a-fuse to run a 3amp fused wire over to your big relay in the console. You can ground the relay right to the mounting bolts at the bottom of the console. That is how I wired mine up.
 
Just going to drop this here... Not really relevant to the center console topic, but a great point related to relays. For anyone looking to power accessories in the rear of the truck - especially in the rear quarter panel - the plug that powered the original factory sub woofer has an accessory power lead. For less than $10, you can plug into that factory harness and run a full suite of "switch to accessor on" relays. works flawlessly. Relays are the gateway to safe wiring.
 
midfat said:
Just going to drop this here... Not really relevant to the center console topic, but a great point related to relays. For anyone looking to power accessories in the rear of the truck - especially in the rear quarter panel - the plug that powered the original factory sub woofer has an accessory power lead. For less than $10, you can plug into that factory harness and run a full suite of "switch to accessor on" relays. works flawlessly. Relays are the gateway to safe wiring.
Click to expand...
Can you be more specific on where this plug is located? And would you just buy the opposite side of the plug or just cut off the original one?
 
Relays all need:

Hi-current in
Hi-current out
Trigger/low amp signal to bridge/hold the relay
Negative ground (grounds the trigger input)

ZCissner said:
House 110/220 Volt can kill you, but 12volts WILL burn your truck to the ground
Click to expand...

Amen. You can (but don’t) - lay a wrench across the battery terminals & see why morons who don’t fuse an amp or properly grommet the firewall pass-thru - burn down their little “boom-boom stereo” shytbox cars.

Fuse as close to the battery as you can for all who do the stereo junkums.
Buddy makes a living fixing home installed items ;)
 
LINUS said:
Relays all need:

Hi-current in
Hi-current out
Trigger/low amp signal to bridge/hold the relay
Negative ground (grounds the trigger input)



Amen. You can (but don’t) - lay a wrench across the battery terminals & see why morons who don’t fuse an amp or properly grommet the firewall pass-thru - burn down their little “boom-boom stereo” shytbox cars.

Fuse as close to the battery as you can for all who do the stereo junkums.
Buddy makes a living fixing home installed items ;)
Click to expand...
Many people forget that the fuse is to protect the wiring not the device, hence protect as much of the wiring as possible by fusing close to the battery.
 
Dubbinchris said:
Many people forget that the fuse is to protect the wiring not the device, hence protect as much of the wiring as possible by fusing close to the battery.
Click to expand...
Bingo.

Ideally, if the average guy can’t access a Bussman (IME the best when exposed to water, but takes a special tool to pin out a block $$$ ) - Blue Seas is a great brand/no special tools.

———————
2 best blocks brand-wise from a collective of over 50yrs of boat rigger staff from my uncle’s old dealership, I have a Bussman on the boat motor ECU / OBD-M electronics of a LS3 & a Blue Seas panel under the dash splitting power to the GPS/depth-map/auto-pilot & various like lighting, downrigger power ports, yadda yadda.
———————

Back to vehicle app :

Best way to avoid accidental “welding” :oops: - run a single BIG gauge cable (fused right at the battery, having a master switch is nice as an addition, not replacement for said master fuse) - thru the firewall to a place in the cab you want the acc panel fuseblock.

Exception being a underhood fuseblock if you run all acc as exterior options where going in & coming back out the firewall is bass-ackwards engineering.

I’ve seen well intended wired rigs where there were 4-6 or more -fuses at the battery, then those same number of wires running thru the firewall.

Wires chafing each other even with a firewall grommet can & do wear, shorting across wires esp if 1 acc is live & the other may not be ‘on’ - bottom line, you get lucky if just a few underhood fuses pop.


Bottom line, do alot of google-fu before you haphazard wire things you never have done prior.

Murphy is M-F’er when he shows his head.

I’m exceedingly “wire concerned“ b/c of the boat - I have a bad situation/fire, I could easily not come back warm from the ocean.
At least in a car you can cut & run, call AAA or whatever.


And scotch—locks are Murphy’s ‘batsignal’ ;)
 
LINUS said:
Bingo.

Ideally, if the average guy can’t access a Bussman (IME the best when exposed to water, but takes a special tool to pin out a block $$$ ) - Blue Seas is a great brand/no special tools.

———————
2 best blocks brand-wise from a collective of over 50yrs of boat rigger staff from my uncle’s old dealership, I have a Bussman on the boat motor ECU / OBD-M electronics of a LS3 & a Blue Seas panel under the dash splitting power to the GPS/depth-map/auto-pilot & various like lighting, downrigger power ports, yadda yadda.
———————

Back to vehicle app :

Best way to avoid accidental “welding” :oops: - run a single BIG gauge cable (fused right at the battery, having a master switch is nice as an addition, not replacement for said master fuse) - thru the firewall to a place in the cab you want the acc panel fuseblock.

Exception being a underhood fuseblock if you run all acc as exterior options where going in & coming back out the firewall is bass-ackwards engineering.

I’ve seen well intended wired rigs where there were 4-6 or more -fuses at the battery, then those same number of wires running thru the firewall.

Wires chafing each other even with a firewall grommet can & do wear, shorting across wires esp if 1 acc is live & the other may not be ‘on’ - bottom line, you get lucky if just a few underhood fuses pop.


Bottom line, do alot of google-fu before you haphazard wire things you never have done prior.

Murphy is M-F’er when he shows his head.

I’m exceedingly “wire concerned“ b/c of the boat - I have a bad situation/fire, I could easily not come back warm from the ocean.
At least in a car you can cut & run, call AAA or whatever.


And scotch—locks are Murphy’s ‘batsignal’ ;)
Click to expand...
I also do some boat wiring. ;)
 
Delta VS said:
We've been working on one for a bit now, incorporating into our Cummins 2.8L FJ80 swap along with a bunch of other parts that you'll be asked for feedback on in the near future.

Most of our designs start in the virtual environment. We recently purchased a 3D scanner to help speed that process up.

View attachment 1687556

Once we get all the essential geometry into the computer, we can use it to come up with the first approximations. Contrary to popular belief, 3D scanning is not quite a "blow and go" operation yet. There is either a lot time spent post processing, or a lot of money spent on software (and by a lot, think $20,000). Since we like to keep both of those categories as light as possible, we still use tape measure and calipers to verify basic scan info.

Once we consolidate this info, we start modeling what a product will actually look like and how it will function. We also verify fitment in the vehicle with basic scan data.

View attachment 1687557

A lot of our prototyping work happens in house, but for finer detailed things that involved a lot of precise sheetmetal, we do contract outside laser cutting and CNC press brake work.

View attachment 1687549

This particular design utilizes both mechanical fastening (through multiple pieces of sheetmetal) and welding in key areas for strength. The threaded mechanical fasteners double as mount points for future accessories, the layout of which will be published so folks can even make their own accessories (so you can have a two-bottle holder OR a single Thirsty-two ouncer holder). A mount plate inside will also be used so things like holsters can be attached. This is one of the big areas where feedback is actively sought.

View attachment 1687550

As you can see, the back side of the console has an easily adapted layout of threaded inserts as well. Each unit will come with a printed out sheet of both the front layout and rear layout, and we will have a pdf on our website when the time comes for that.

The prototype unit in these pictures has been installed in @swankstar's rig for fitment and drive testings. While he may be a short little troll type, the height has been verified by multiple drivers as being nice when on the road. It is quite cavernous inside, with lots of space to add shelves and cubbies.

If you've got any questions, ask away!
Click to expand...
Please send any info and price to jpmreno@yahoo.com thanks
 
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