Introduction (1 Viewer)

[smokedpig]

About a month ago I purchased a 1974 FJ40 and checked off a long-awaited bucket list item! Based off the engine's serial number it is powered by a 1971 1F. It has a 4-speed transmission, disc brakes in the front, an upgraded HEI Ignition System, a new(er) aftermarket H3662 carb (21100-61012 replica), and 33" BFGs on 15" stock steelies w/ OEM hub caps.

In the past month (thanks to the folks in the IH8MUD forum) I have adjusted the timing, adjusted the carb (lean drop method), added new plugs, front brake pads, and changed the oil. It starts right up, still running a little rich, but will get me up and down the street just fine. Today put plates on her and took her on a maiden voyage around town. It started buck at speeds above 35 mph and stalls on an incline when at an idle. Probably starved for fuel, I am thinking more carb issues, likely float adjustment but not sure. Back to the forums...

With the amount of time spent on IH8MUD this month I figured it was time to join. Thanks to all for the help so far, looking forward to continuing to talk 40s with y'all.

-SmokedPig

 

[South Texas 97]

Vacuum hoses replaced? And check your timing. If you have the mechanical fuel pump take a look at the condition of the pump.

 

[Pighead]

Probably starved for fuel, I am thinking more carb issues, likely float adjustment but not sure.

Easy enough to check, look in the porthole window in the front of the carb to see the fuel level in the floatbowl.
You can adjust the float by just taking the top off the carb. Don't have to remove the whole carb.

 

[60 40]

I'm guessing fuel pump as well.

Stop calling it and FJ!

Welcome!

 

[Pighead]

Stop calling it and FJ!

Welcome!

Yes, that too

 

[Paul_A]

Yes, that three.

 

[Green Bean]

Welcome. When time permits post some pics of you truck.

 

[smokedpig]

Vacuum hoses replaced? And check your timing. If you have the mechanical fuel pump take a look at the condition of the pump.

Thanks for the feedback South Texas 97. Here is what I have done:

1. [PASS] The vacuum hoses appear to be in good condition and my vacuum pressure gauge shows that I am holding 15 in/hg at 650 rpms off the manifold.
2. [PASS] Timing was set to 7 degrees BTDC using an Innova 5568 Pro Timing Light at 650 rpm. Aligned with timing mark (TDC) not the BB.
3. [FAIL] Fuel Pump is pushing about 3.1 psi. Spec says 3.4-4.8.

Do you think that fuel pressure is low enough to cause an issue? It is on the hairy edge but close to the minimum.

Consider that it stalls when idling on an uphill, not under acceleration. This is what led me to the float theory rather than a fuel delivery issue. Interestingly enough my float bowl is draining while parked and then takes a while to fill once started. Once idling it appears to be above the site glass but not overflowing. With this carb close to flooding and the host of other carb symptoms I am considering pulling it off, tearing it down, and cleaning and adjusting everything. I'll hold off and wait to hear from others though. Willing to test any and all theories.

I appreciate the help!

 

[smokedpig]

 

[Pighead]

can you get a rebuild kit for the carb?

 

[Green Bean]

Nice looking rig and copilot.

 

[brooklyn]

I am a firm believer in two carbs. One on the bench for rebuilding and another to run until it needs a rebuild. I like the City Racer Fuji carb. Never can have enough back up parts

 

[cruiserkev]

I am a firm believer in two carbs. One on the bench for rebuilding and another to run until it needs a rebuild. I like the City Racer Fuji carb. Never can have enough back up parts

Agree with brooklyn, get yourself a city racer carb and rebuild the one you have. All my carb issues went away when I swapped in the Fuji. OEM 76 carb is patiently waiting to be rebuilt a second time (Jim C rebuilt it in the 90s!) on a shelf. Back up cruiser parts definitely help when owning an FJ40!

 

[smokedpig]

can you get a rebuild kit for the carb?

Agree with brooklyn, get yourself a city racer carb and rebuild the one you have. All my carb issues went away when I swapped in the Fuji. OEM 76 carb is patiently waiting to be rebuilt a second time (Jim C rebuilt it in the 90s!) on a shelf. Back up cruiser parts definitely help when owning an FJ40!

I can get a rebuild kit but do like idea of having a spare carb to drop in now. I could use some help figure out what I want/need though.

I currently have a '71 1F motor and the carb appears to be a H3662 Chinese built aftermarket version of the Aisan 21100-61012. I also have the original Aisan sitting on my bench, it is pretty beat though. I am not sure it is worth putting the time into quite yet.

While shopping for a replacement carb it appears I am not going to find an original Aisan so a Chinese clone will have to due. Based on the thread below it seems wise to buy from a reputable, US vendor vs. buying the Ebay or Amazon version.

Help Identifying Aftermarket 2F Carb

Hey everybody. Just joined the world of 60s a couple months ago, and now I'm finally digging into the engine bay to get familiarized and to tidy up some of the PO's work. It's been desmogged (at the top of the list of things to double check) and has some aftermarket carburetor that I need some...

forum.ih8mud.com

Q: Is it really worth paying 2-3 times more for the City Racer clone vs. the Amazon clone? For that price what are your thoughts on other options, a Weber for example?

 

[60 40]

It is worth paying for the City Racer carb, it's made in Japan and the cheeper carbs you speak of reputably often have small shards of metal or other obstructions in the internals that require a rebuild right off the shelf. City Racer is not so expensive if you consider what a new or even nice rebuilt OEM will likely run you. My back up carb is the Fuji from City Racer, they have great service on quality goods and fast shipping!

I would consider a Weber almost last but that's just me others here use them and have mixed results.

 

[smokedpig]

It is worth paying for the City Racer carb, it's made in Japan and the cheeper carbs you speak of reputably often have small shards of metal or other obstructions in the internals that require a rebuild right off the shelf. City Racer is not so expensive if you consider what a new or even nice rebuilt OEM will likely run you.

I would consider a Weber almost last but that's just me others here use them and have mixed results.

Understood. Thanks for pointing that out. After looking a little closer I now see "Made in Japan" stamped right on it. City Racer it is.

Good info on the Weber too!

 

[Pighead]

I also have the original Aisan sitting on my bench, it is pretty beat though. I am not sure it is worth putting the time into quite yet.

What year original Aisan? there's a date code stamped on it. If it's the '74 I would make every effort to make it work.

 

[mrboatman]

Weber is the very last to consider. Holley 2 barrel works fine. Holley Sniper FI is the way to go .

 

[60 40]

Weber is the very last to consider. Holley 2 barrel works fine. Holley Sniper FI is the way to go .

So true Sniper may the way to go in the end, but you might want to make sure you are planning on keeping the rig.


It's spendy and not EMP proof.

 

[knuckle47]

Just read thru your entire thread. Welcome and good luck with the new truck. My very first new car was my 1974 FJ40 in 1974. 50 years later it is still in my blood.
My 2F 1975 had a Weber on it when I bought it and a set of 6 into 1 headers but I immediately went out and ordered the Holley Sniper EFI. That sat in the box from Mosley for over 15 months because the Weber was running very well once it warmed up. Finally installed it with the in-tank fuel pump

On the other hand…WOW… my Sniper EFI has turned out to be an amazing turn around . Instant starts, zero hesitation even when you jam the accelerator to the floor. And once it dials itself in I expect even more from it. The motor seems to enjoy a bit more of an advanced timing than the specs call for.

Once again, congratulations on the purchase.