Builds Introducing Oliver

[mr jits]

I'm not heavy on the skinny pedal, but with some 39.5 iroks or 37 pitbulls (they measure almost exactly the same, hence the choice) in the near future, im really thinking the transfer case is going to be the weak link. I have no desire to build up the Toyota case because of its known weaknesses.

 

[mr jits]

Installing the add a leafs to the rear today to get him leveled out. Estimating about 2" lift with the spring addition which should put the rear 1" taller than the front without passengers and gear. I'm hoping that it sits level with the addition of the kids, one or two jerry cans, and the occasional spare.

 

[mr jits]

Installed the front calipers over the weekend. I had to grind off the cooling fins from the 4runner calipers to fit my wheels, but other than that pretty straightforward.
I have some stuff coming from RockTactics so will weld up the rear antiwrap in the next day or so. I'm still waiting on a front flange for the transfer case, but I'll soon have front wheel drive!

 

[mr jits]

Does anyone know the installation kit needed for a Grant steering wheel? Tonsofun hooked me up with one (getting rid of the school bus wheel) .

 

[mr jits]

It looks like the drive shaft yokes are going to the machine shop for a little work. Although the spicer u joint is labeled as a replacement part for the early FJ40, it's in fact dimensionally bigger. Bearing cap diameter is 1.125 vs the FJ40's 1.123, overall length is 3.219 vs the FJ40's 3.070.
I would break out some hones and the dremel, but for something that tends to go bad anyway (u-joints) I may as well have it done right so that I can lessen the failure rate (as much as is possible on a square tube shaft). Spicer part #5-787x, 1310spec.

 

[mr jits]

So, I'm extremely frustrated. I took the pan off the TH350 (oh, forgot to mention that after getting the truck home I found it to have a 350/350 combo rather than the 350/400 combo the PO had stated) and found that there is no clearance for a larger flange so I'm stuck with a small flange, a new transmission (sm465), or a new transfer case (np205). The transmission and transfer case are my choices because they're free (minus whatever is needed to install).
Ideas???

 

[mr jits]

And keeping the small flange means a custom front shaft. Quoted at $500 from Tom Woods.

 

[White Stripe]

That is an issue with a rig that sits low using the auto tranny. A sm465 would fix it easy. If you went with a np205 wouldn't you have to center the rear diff idealy? Plus with a sm465 your gonna be less likely to break stuff because of the low gearing in the trans. Did you keep the 3.70s in the fj60 axles? I guess if you went with a np205 you could drop a 14bolt in the back for cheap for a centered axle.

 

[mr jits]

I was thinking of the 14bolt with the 205 but have 4.11 thirds. Finding the 4.10 14bolt's is getting harder to do. I could run the 205 with the 60 series axles but then run into multiple angle issues on the driveshaft.
Any way I look at this I'm $500 or more to fix something that wasn't expected.

 

[White Stripe]

Yes but worst case you just have to put a ring and pinion in. Plus you never have to worry about your rear axle breaking or your tcase. Kill two birds with one stone and call it a day.

 

[mr jits]

I need to figure a way to make the th350 work. Switching things out is a bigger headache than I want. I've an email into AA and will see what we can come up with.

 

[mr jits]

After an email to AA (worthless communication on their part. Their recommendation was to give Tom Woods a call, which I had explained in my email to AA that I'd already done) and a conversation with a friend who wheels Toy stuff mercilessly, I've found the solution to my driveline woes: a doubler!
Since any solution was going to cost $$, we came to the conclusion that a 203/ 3 speed doubler would give me two things I need anyway. Clearance for the front drive shaft and the ability to run a full size drive flange, and that extra low range I'm going to need when I switch to 39.5's.

 

[boots4]

Back when I was setting up my rig I went with a doubler for the same reasons. Overall it was barely more than getting an adapter from my tranny to my splitcase.

 

[Elk Hunt]

I know that you've pushed you rear end back but are you certain that your rear driveshaft length (lack of) wont be an issue?

 

[mr jits]

Not at all. Rear was extended by almost ten inches. That still leaves me a net 4 even with the addition of the doubler for driveshaft length (getting a custom shaft made for the rear, so no real issue.

 

[Elk Hunt]

And keeping the small flange means a custom front shaft. Quoted at $500 from Tom Woods.

Received my shafts from Tom Woods a couple of weeks ago, very responsive and overall a great company to work with.

 

[mr jits]

Spent a moment working on the rear antiwrap bar today. 1.75"x.188 wall dom. I still need to add some gussets, but will not add the front heim until I see whether or not I need to move the crossmember when I install the doubler.
Don't mind the muffler, I'm ripping out the rear portion of the exhaust. Going to run a single 24" cherry bomb.

 

[mr jits]

I picked up an np203 to put a doubler together. That's a heavy chunk of metal!
Hopefully I'll have the transfer case stuff sorted this week and have the cases bolted in.

 

[mr jits]

I pulled the toyota case and started the teardown of the np203. I may have some trouble with the output on the th350 as it looks like the spud shaft was swapped out with the small block swap.

 

[mr jits]

I've found that the adapter is a Downey Offroad product. Part#33153-PT400. Its a very thin adapter plate that uses a short 23 spline spud shaft mated to the 3 speed case. The more I dive in to this thing to solve my driveline issue, the more I find that I need to "fix" to correct my problem.
It looks as if I'm going to have to replace the spud shaft to make the 203/3 speed doubler work. That's an entire weekend job all by itself.