Builds Intro: Ugly Betty(so far)

[tmarx]

Thanks guys. Yeah, Max was a special one as he suffered from a huge identity crisis - he just didn't realise that he was not human. We all took it very hard as he was seen as one of the children and a brother to the kids.

Don we did debate getting a new pup but the consensus was that it was too soon and that it would not be fair to the new pup as he/she would be continiously "measured" against Max. The kids wanted Max back and not a new pup. But who knows , in a month or two ...

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Sorry to hear about the pup. That's simply no fun--at all.

Any chance I could talk you into more pictures of that PS pump, and how it mounts to the bracket? Do you have a part number for it? I suspect it's a 44320-60080, but if you have a part number, it would help a lot. The later trucks used (and the EPC shows) that 44320-60090 superceded it, and I got a 60090. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to bolt onto my bracket--which looks identical to the bracket you've got there.

Is the PS all original to the truck, or from something else? October '82-November '84 is different from November 84-November '85. My PS stuff came from an unknown truck, as did the engine, so I'm trying to piece it all together....

That motor and frame look fantastic.

Dan

 

[tmarx]

Sure Dan !
Mine is a 11/83 LX so the P/S is all original AFAIK. I don't have the rolling frame with me at the moment but it should be back in about a week, so if you need more pics etc just shout. In the mean time I hope these help you ....

Your number ?

 

[tmarx]

Dan I just checked all my pics and the closest to a number on the pump I could find is this

It reads C at the top and 3H05711 at the bottom. TOYODIY lists the pump part# for my truck as 44320-60080 but I cannot find a listing for the pumpbracket at all . Compare the part# on your bracket to mine ?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I won't know for sure until I get back up to the shop, but I do believe you may just be an angel!

I was trying to mount the PS pump too high I think. We'll see if I can't get it to fit that way...

EDIT--you've got the 44443-60040 bracket (it's visible in one of the pics), which means you should have the 44320-60080 pump. The 44320-60080 pump is no longer available. The 44320-60090 pump is still available from Toyota (it's also used on the FJ-62). In about an hour I'll be able to tell you if you can use the early (October 82-November 84) bracket with the later model pump.

Dan

 

[tmarx]

So what's the verdict, Dan ?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Verdict is that the old bracket and the new pump are not compatible. I'm about ot post some pictures on my FJ to BJ thread in the diesel section showing why...

Dan

 

[71 redwood]

ya congrats on the find, I too am loving your rig I want one...I like the snorkel look, I think it makes it undestructable.....

 

[tmarx]

Thanx redwood. I have since galvanized the snorkle and am looking for a Safari head to go with it. That previous head was just plain ugly

 

[lostmarbles]

Great thread Theo.

I spent quite a few hours yesterday studying it (with all your beautiful photographs).

It reminded me of a post I made a long time ago saying that I would never hot-dip a frame. - But that opinion was based on the work of a local galvanising company over here. (I noticed the galvanising tended to stay away from any lap joints etc.) And also I had difficulty getting paint to stick to hot-dipped steel.

But after seeing your frame (much better hot-dipping) and your painting methods (including your thorough preparation) - hot dipping is obviously the way to go for the ultimate corrosion protection. (I note that Roberto has gone down this route too.)

(Incidentally - My local hot-dipping company has changed hands and now achieves higher standards too.)

You must be very proud of your results. (In all areas - not just the frame!)




Tom

 

[tmarx]

Thanks TOm, much appreciated ! I am happy with the amount of galv that I got on the frame. We measured the galv thickness all over the frame and the ave was 4 times more than what is considered good in the market !


Unfortunately it is beginning to look like my worst nightmare may come true. We need a window period of 3/4 clear days to blast and paint the Rust Bullet but it seems Cape Town winter arrived early. Rain predicted for the next 6 days.. Just to make matters worse my imported Rust Bullet is about 11 months old so it is supposed to be nearing the end of it's "racklife"

 

[tmarx]

Well the Cape winter didn't play along with our plans, as we need at least 3 or 4 days to blast and Rust Bullet the tub and all panels and according to the latest forecasts that window period will only happen from next week Wednesday.

I had a few outstanding odd jobs to do, so yesterday being workers-day, was good for me but I don't work at Auto Magic everyday. What great service again from Gordon.Not only did he open the place for us but even lent us a helping hand and bought us lunch ! Thanks Gordon, the sacrifices you make for your clients are amazing
I needed to to test the new custom tubmounts that we had made which meant I also had to drill the holes for the supports(and 3mm lift) I had made for the rear tubmounts.I was sceptical about the tubmounts but not anymore. They worked great and the tub was level. (Sorry about the crappy cellphone pics :whoops: )
It was good to see the tub on the chassis and to get an idea of the lift gained, from the longer shackles...

I also needed to drill the swivel's holes on the bib that we had modified/repaired earlier which meant we had to assemble and align the front in order to mark and drill the holes. At the end JT remarked: "That was a lot of work for 5 holes" and I have to agree.

Thanks for offering up your time also JT, it is much appreciated.

 

[tmarx]

Time for an update: With the weather finally clearing we got our window of 4 days to blast all panels and spray the Rust Bullet. Yesterday the first load of stuff went to the blasters.It was not finished on time but that was not the worst of it. Instead of picking the tub up and turning it over the way most people would do it, these guys, in their infinite wisdom decided to roll the tub over on it's side and in the process bent one of the panels

The damage was not that bad but it was already 15H30 and we still needed to weld up the few small new pinholes, clean the remaining seam-sealer(that OEM stuff is very tough!), panelbeat the new dent and then prep and spray the 2 coats of Rust Bullet. It is fair to say that I had a total sense of humor failure ...

Enter the guys at Auto Magic again. They were fantastic ! Realising the pickle we were in with all the panels and tub being down to bare metal, they just started clicking like a unit.

I even got a shirt

While we were doing the seams Wouter set about on the beating of the tub etc.

Eventually it was just the 3 of us but at 19h20 we started spraying the 1st coat of Rust bullet

With the 2nd coat on we dragged ourselves out of there at 22h40 but very glad that we had achieved what we wanted to ...

Thanks guys, you were great !

Side notes:
The quality of the blasting with fine sand is very good- no warped panels , holes blown through etc.
My tub is actually in much better condition than what most(including myself) thought, initially.
Rust Bullet silver label is too thick and we had to dilute it with Xylene(thanks again Keith)
Rust bullet amplifies all the dents and imperfections making it easy to see the areas where work is needed.
Doing this in the Cape winter time is stressfull.

Today the the procedure was basically the same but thankfully minus any mishaps

Panels done and prepped for Rust Bullet

First coat going on ...

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Looks great!

How long until it gets paint?

Dan

 

[tmarx]

Looks great!

How long until it gets paint?

Dan

Thanks Dan !

Initially the plan was to paint as soon as possible after the filler work etc but after the mishap I want to test-fit all the panels again first, to check the alignment.(I know I am a tad anal, but what else can I do - I suspect that the area where the left fender cover and the tub meets, might also be slightly bent.We unfortunately didn't have time to check & correct that while the metal was all bare ) Seeing that the Rust Bullet application was spread over 2 days we have to wait out the 72 hrs till after the last panels were sprayed anyhow ...

 

[tmarx]

Now that the Rust Bullet has been sprayed it is time for the fine beating and the unavoidable filler-work. From the onset I insisted on all the panels being back on the chassis during this stage and the great bunch of guys at Auto Magic, agreed. So tonight, Hendrik and I had the entire shop to ourselves and got some work done ...

Alignment done ..

Then the rest ..

Last one

On to the next stage ..

 

[tmarx]

The dreaded filler work started. All of which is very slow and "old school" style, but at least it matches the old school welding

Rust bullet going on over the filler and the edges where the 10+ hrs of building up and sanding down, thinned the initial rust bullet coat a little

Starting on the next panel ...

 

[millas]

Good looking job, well done so far..

 

[Roberto]

M

I plan on RB mine as well, dont u have to paint within so many hours? or did you just ruff it up anyway since there was filler that was needed and then u will prime and then paint? how many quarts did it take to do all ur parts so I know how many to buy for mine as well, looks great, my Body is getting ready to go out.

R

 

[tmarx]

Hi Rob.

We blasted everything and then gave it the 2 coats of RB. After testing some filler, we found it best to wait the advised 72 hrs for the RB to cure before starting the filler work but yes you then have to scuff it up to improve adhesion as the RB is PU based. When the filler work is done we will cover all the filler with RB, wait another 72 hrs and then give it a light sand/scuff and thereafter prime and paint. How much RB ? Initially I brought in 4x 950ml for myself but thanks to a friend I managed to obtain a further 3x 950ml and I am praying that it would be enough cos there is no more RB left in ZA anywhere ....