Interior rebuild part 1 - Carpet Removal / Dynamat install (lots of Pics) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Spare wire for future rear vehicle AC inverter wired through the firewall direct to battery.
 
Thanks for documenting your project, I'm preparing the same. My stupid question of the day is:

Why not a sprayable product (like Lizardskin), did you consider it or not have access to a compressor?

I'm looking at cost on each product vs application time vs water/moisture resistance. I'm considering topping Lizardskin with a bedliner (I have some Raptor on hand), probably over-the-top...

If your really looking to go over the top...use Dynamat or Rattle Trap Extreme it's a FatMat product thats every bit as good if not better than Dynamat and half the cost.. the aluminum backing is much better. I purchased 100Ft pack for $132.00 ... and then brush or shoot on a sound deadener like Second Skin..or Lizardskin. You can top off with bedliner...
I used Dynamat Extreme and Dynaliner on the roof and floor

Here's a few shots of my doors and the process ...As you can see ..one can get little carried away:)

Lou


attachment.php

attachment.php
attachment.php
attachment.php
attachment.php
 
Other jobs to tackle while Im in there:

fuel pump intake filter
wiring for rear sub
gamiviti replacement gears for front seats

What else?

I can vouch for those gears, they were the very first thing I did after I got it home :)

If you want any ideas on the rear sub let me know I replaced mine with a small one a few months ago
 
Thanks for documenting your project, I'm preparing the same. My stupid question of the day is:

Why not a sprayable product (like Lizardskin), did you consider it or not have access to a compressor?

I'm looking at cost on each product vs application time vs water/moisture resistance. I'm considering topping Lizardskin with a bedliner (I have some Raptor on hand), probably over-the-top...

I considered it, briefly but I really just didn't want to deal with the mess. I did a bunch of reading, here and on lots of other forums about different products, and just finally decided to go the Dynamat route.

As I said in the initial post, this just started out as cleaning the carpet and morphed into this. I'm ready to put the carpet in today, or start it anyway. I haven't started her in 3 weeks because the rear seat heater lines have been disconnected. I'm ready to get this wrapped up :)
 
I can vouch for those gears, they were the very first thing I did after I got it home :)

If you want any ideas on the rear sub let me know I replaced mine with a small one a few months ago

Yes, please share your setup if you havent posted it already.
 
Jonasx: Thanks for the pictures and write up on this project. I've wanted to do the same on my 94 to clean the carpet, then add sound deadening in the entire interior like Luke did. I would expect that it will make a huge difference in road noise on a long trip. Please let us know how much difference in road noise you hear after all this work.

Luke...enjoyed reading your old thread as well. Cool write up and pictures. How much quieter was your rig after this work?
 
Jonasx: Thanks for the pictures and write up on this project. I've wanted to do the same on my 94 to clean the carpet, then add sound deadening in the entire interior like Luke did. I would expect that it will make a huge difference in road noise on a long trip. Please let us know how much difference in road noise you hear after all this work. Luke...enjoyed reading your old thread as well. Cool write up and pictures. How much quieter was your rig after this work?[/QUOTE

Thanks, it's pretty darn quiet ... and a lot cooler in the summer.

Lou
 
This is just a little public service announcement for one attempting to replace the carpet in their FJZ80. WD-40 is an excellent solvent for the residual carpet mat that may still be attached to the sound deadening material on the floor pan. I was expecting to spend my entire weekend scrubbing it off but a generous amount of WD-40 seemed react with the surface of the sound deadening material and the mat came off without a struggle. Got it done in an hour, tops.
 
Just an FYI. I just stripped my interior. If you have a pressure washer it makes quick work of all the "Fuzz" left stuck to the floor. Mine has been thoroughly abused and used. It looked much worse than the OPs pictures and it just blew out like nothing. Now I have some patch pannels to make to cut the rust out. I am going to linex the entire inside. Then I have the big box of fat mat to put over that.

Jason
 
Just an FYI. I just stripped my interior. If you have a pressure washer it makes quick work of all the "Fuzz" left stuck to the floor. Mine has been thoroughly abused and used. It looked much worse than the OPs pictures and it just blew out like nothing. Now I have some patch pannels to make to cut the rust out. I am going to linex the entire inside. Then I have the big box of fat mat to put over that.

Jason

Jason,

why put fat mat on top of linex? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the liner? I was considering the same thing but was not sure how to get both the liner and sound deadening. I was thinking I might put fat mat on the underbody but have not executed yet. thoughts?

-Alan
 
The purpose of the linex for me is just to cover the repairs I am doing to the floor and add an extra layer of weather and heat defense with sound deadoning coming in also. The fat mat is the true sound deadening. I will retain my carpet. Most use it on the interior so they can leave the carpet out. I'm just using it instead of repainting after I redo the floors. The other benefits are added.
 
The purpose of the linex for me is just to cover the repairs I am doing to the floor and add an extra layer of weather and heat defense with sound deadoning coming in also. The fat mat is the true sound deadening. I will retain my carpet. Most use it on the interior so they can leave the carpet out. I'm just using it instead of repainting after I redo the floors. The other benefits are added.

Gotcha, I think what I might do is get it linex-ed' and then get sound deadening but just throw it on top without the adhesive on the linex. I want to be able to put messy stuff on the linex if I'm going to spend for it. Looks real nice too, can't see throwing deadener on it permanently.
 
Gotcha, I think what I might do is get it linex-ed' and then get sound deadening but just throw it on top without the adhesive on the linex. I want to be able to put messy stuff on the linex if I'm going to spend for it. Looks real nice too, can't see throwing deadener on it permanently.

This is odd to me because you can have the Line-X sprayed OVER the Dynamat. In fact thats what the Line-X shop wanted to do for my 60.
 
This is odd to me because you can have the Line-X sprayed OVER the Dynamat. In fact thats what the Line-X shop wanted to do for my 60.

ok, I was thinking that the mat might be too soft for linex to be sprayed on top. Never done a linex before but I'm a believer. I take it still reduces noise pretty well even with the hard linex top coat?
 
Its dried hard but its still pliable which is what you want since both the metal and the polyurea have different expansion rates with heat/cold.
 
I just insulated the inside of my doors and rear quarter-panels with a product a friend recommended to me from amazon (Amazon product ASIN B0751CBXBT) - I used one box, it went super well, was really easy to cut to the right size and its a bunch quieter already.

tempImage561RB6.png
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom