Interior rebuild part 1 - Carpet Removal / Dynamat install (lots of Pics) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Threads
9
Messages
30
Location
La Vergne, TN
Hello all,

I originally started this project as a carpet cleaning exercise. There was a black oily stain on the drivers side floor that I couldn't seems to shampoo up. I intended to take out the carpet, and go at it with a pressure washer and some Simple Green. That where this whole thing began.

I pulled all the seats and lower trim out and stowed it in the garage -

IMG_0517.jpg


I pulled the carpet out and laid it on the driveway to assess the situation. You'll see the dark area that was the stain in question on the upper left hand corner, plus the loads of dog hair-

IMG_0456.jpg


Inspecting the existing heat shield/sound deadener, I found that in some places, notably the drivers side and passenger side floor pans, it had deteriorated. I was able to scoop of some gooey chunks with a putty knife. I assume this may have been what caused the stubborn stain on the drivers side. I decided at least to take this up and re-lay some aftermarket stuff in its place. It's tough to tell from the picture but you can see that the carpet padding had kind of fused with it -

IMG_0457.jpg


IMG_0472.jpg


I thought I'd remove all the other stuck padding with a brush, tried my dogs wire brush and a scouring pad neither worked, I finally decided on using a slag brush from my welding rig-

IMG_0473.jpg



This was turning into a headache and I wasn't really getting good results. After finding a few more deteriorated spots and not really being able to clean the padding from the factory deadener, I decided it was time to go nuclear and rip it all out. Putty knife, screw driver, razor knife and several gouges and scratches in the sheetmetal later, this obviously wasn't working. Did some googling and learned about the dry ice route. Dropped buy the local Publix and picked up 5 pounds of the stuff. That was enough for one floor pan and another small section about the same size. From the supermarket, it came in blocks which I crushed with a mallet for better coverage -

IMG_0484.jpg


I was going to need alot more dry ice. Found a localish supplier, Continental Carbonics, that sold the stuff in pellet form for about a buck a pound (half the supermaket price). Loaded up the cooler and got 40 pounds of the stuff. I found it easier to put it in plastic shopping bags and kind of hang it off fixtures in the interior, especially for the vertical surfaces. One key to this is to make sure to let it sit for a while. Ten to fifteen minutes per area. I had 3 areas going at once and rotated between them as I worked, this made the process faster. You'll be able to hear the deadener popping loose when the ice has done its work. The freezing does a couple of things i think, first it makes the deadener brittle and second it contracts the metal a bit. I was able to pull lift off large chunks of it at once after it was sufficiently frozen.

IMG_0492.jpg


IMG_0497.jpg


After removing all that I could with the ice method, there was still a good bit of residue in place, as well as some little chunks here and there. Especially in the channels, and as my wife calls it "the built in leg warmer" on the passenger side -

IMG_0516.jpg


IMG_0515.jpg


IMG_0512.jpg


I tried simple green and a scouring pad (ineffective) , some paint brush cleaner, which also removed the paint (duh), the slag brush and some Goof Off (worked well on the residue, not so much on the little stubborn chunks), finally said the heck with it and went and dropped 8 bucks on a wire wheel brush for a drill. I had already decided i was going to have to repaint it. After a few hours with that, which I'm sure the neighbors loved, it made huge racket, I felt like everything was nice and cleaned. -

After the Goof Off and slag brush cleaning -

IMG_0639.jpg


Sorry, don't have a picture after the wire brush cleaning, was too beat to take anymore, was alot of work :)

Now there were lots of little dings, scratches and gouges, not to mention my little experiment with the paint brush cleaner that left exposed metal. Got a couple of rattle cans of filler primer and went over all the areas where the factory deadened had been installed, and let that dry for a couple of days, til there was no more paint smell.

IMG_0637.jpg


IMG_0636.jpg


IMG_0635.jpg


IMG_0634.jpg



Now it was time for the Dynamat install, which I thought would be the easy part. I was wrong. It was by far the most time intensive task yet. As I'm rather meticulous, it took me over 4 days and 20+ hours to do the whole thing. Granted I didn't work non stop and I was distracted now and then, but it was alot more work than I estimated.

....Continued in next post
 
Last edited:
Interior rebuild part 1 - Carpet Removal / Dynamat install (lots of Pics) cont.

I ordered 3 boxes of the Dynamat XTREME Bulk Pak product, a bit over 100 sq ft. My plan was to do the floor areas first and work my way up the sides until I ran out of it.

Never having worked with this before, I was a little nervous and kind of laid it out ahead of time to get an idea of the amount I'd need -

IMG_0646.jpg


Then put my first pieces down. I used good old thumb power (and jesus are my hands sore) and a racket ball to press it down. The large flat parts were easy to do with full sheets -

IMG_0648.jpg


I worked my way up the floor -

IMG_0654.jpg


Covering the driver/passenger floor and trans hump area -


IMG_0656.jpg


and finally covering the the structural ribs and tricky parts -

IMG_0666.jpg


IMG_0667.jpg



The competed floor section, used just over One and a half boxes, around 15 sheets, i believe. -

IMG_0661.jpg


Next onto the wheel arches, i found it immeasurable easier here to cut the Dynamat into strips. I got far less wrinkles and it was much easier to work with. I hope this doesn't lessen the effectiveness, even if it does there's more deadener her than there was before :). -

IMG_0670.jpg


Next I moved on to the exterior sides. I first tried to peel off the existing vapor barriers to preserve them for reuse. That proved futile. I ripped them out and applied the remaining Dynamat inside all four doors and both the back two quarter panels, using the strip method. -

IMG_0679.jpg


IMG_0678.jpg


I also applied it inside the tailgate ( i have Wagongear's mod installed).

I used all 3 boxes and it covered -

The entire floor , tailgate all the way to the firewall

The rear wheel arches

~90% of the rear quarter panels, (I left the existing deadener in place on the rear passenger quarter panel and didn't cover it)

~85% of rear doors ( i could only reach so much)

~95% of the front doors (almost all areas accessible)

Completed Dynamat install -

IMG_0676.jpg



Some other notes -

I pulled the rear seat heater under the passenger side. I had to cut the hoses off the pipes as they had melded into one entity over the past 17 years. Make sure you have something to catch the fluid that will drain when you do this. You can't buy these hoses from the dealer, or at least my dealer didn't think so, I went to the local auto parts store and found a suitable replacement.

Make sure you have a big box of bandages for all the cuts your going to get on your hands and arms. Utility knife aside, there are lots of little sharp edges you'll find when reaching inside the doors and panels.

Regardless of what the marketing material says, Dynamat is not easy to work with! Granted i was working in about 60 degree temperature and it may be more flexible when warmer. It's extremely tacky (which is good), the only thing it sticks better to than the metal is itself. Keep that in mind when your working with larger sheets. It's extremely difficult to position it into place you can't lay it flat onto, applying it to unexposed or covered areas at an angle can be maddening. As the instructions say, its better to peel off the backing as you apply it rather than all at once. It will pull bandages off your fingers, stick to your skin, clothes etc etc. I'm not knocking the product, but it is a pita to work with :). I'm sure all the competitors are equally frustrating.

The carpet came today and I'll be doing another write up on that.

I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have on the experience.
 
Looks good.
 
Very thourough! Thanks for taking so many pics.
 
This is great, bookmarked for the future.
 
Did you shave sheep in the back of the truck before you took the carpet out?:lol:
 
Its look great i want to do the same to mine how much dynamat did you use total maybe say how many sq ft and cost maybe the link of where you bought it.
Once I'm ready to do it I'm thinking of putting new carpeting as well I saw and these guys are about the only ones I found that have LC80 mold http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=21802&MakeId=37&ModelId=709
dont know if anyone has installed one from this forum but the price is very tempting .
 
Its look great i want to do the same to mine how much dynamat did you use total maybe say how many sq ft and cost maybe the link of where you bought it.

I used 3 full boxes which is 108 sq feet. I double layered parts of the driver and passenger floors, where the heat was an issue. Maybe used 2 extra sheets for that.

I bought mine off ebay -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Dynamat...32-/331036892563?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

that was the cheapest i could find it at the time. If you want to do every possible surface on the lower half and every sq in of exposed metal I'd go with 4 boxes to be safe. I could have gone a little further up the firewall and with some ridiculous effort maybe put more inside the rear doors.

Once I'm ready to do it I'm thinking of putting new carpeting as well I saw and these guys are about the only ones I found that have LC80 mold http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCa...37&ModelId=709
dont know if anyone has installed one from this forum but the price is very tempting .

I got my carpet from them, came in yesterday, gonna try to do the install this weekend and I'll do a write up on it too.
 
Last edited:
good write-up, always wanted to rip my carpet out and do a really good job cleaning it.
 
Just a suggestion for future efforts. A heat gun or even a hair dryer will make the dynamat/sound deadener 1000x easier.
 
Great job.. since you have everything out drop the headliner and do the roof.... really helps in keeping the truck cooler and quiet


Lou

I plan on doing that when I replace the headliner (next project after I finish the bottom half.

How much Dynamat did you need to do the entire roof ? Did you do the pillars?
 
If you still need to scrub your carpet definitely use a power washer to blast it. I pulled my carpet and used my powerwasher and scrubbed it for like an hour with Woolite, came out awesome. Woolite is gentel on the carpet, cleans amazing, rinses well, and wont leave it feeling crunchy. My carpet came out brand new looking and it has 230k miles on it!
 
I plan on doing that when I replace the headliner (next project after I finish the bottom half.

How much Dynamat did you need to do the entire roof ? Did you do the pillars?

I did not do the pillars..and can't remember how much i used...but did Dynamat and covered that with Dynaliner... I also used marine vinyl when recovering the headliner.

Lou
 
When you do the headliner plan on repairing roof rack holes and corrosion. It's a PITA to do the Dynamat and headliner and then repair roof leaks.
 
Other jobs to tackle while Im in there:

fuel pump intake filter
wiring for rear sub
gamiviti replacement gears for front seats

What else?
 
Thanks for documenting your project, I'm preparing the same. My stupid question of the day is:

Why not a sprayable product (like Lizardskin), did you consider it or not have access to a compressor?

I'm looking at cost on each product vs application time vs water/moisture resistance. I'm considering topping Lizardskin with a bedliner (I have some Raptor on hand), probably over-the-top...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom