Intake hose went kaputnik

[Spook50]

So I went to start the 62 today to roll it out of the shop and take a couple "after" pics of the body lift, and it gave me symptoms of a nasty vacuum leak. I figured maybe a line had been yanked while jacking up the body (so to speak) to swap out the mounts, but it turns out the rubber intake hose connected to my throttle body finally gave up the ghost and split along three separate "ridges". It broke apart completely when I went to remove it, so now I need a new one, but IIRC Toyota doesn't make a replacement. Anyone know of a good alternative to use, or if maybe I'm wrong in thinking it's no longer available new?

The truck is stuck in the shop without a workable intake

 

[Godwin]

Duct tape for a temp fix. Seriously.

 

[wesintl]

17882-61070 is still available from Toyota

 

[Spook50]

Duct tape for a temp fix. Seriously.

I had duct tape over a broken portion for a couple years. Now with the new splits being where they are, even duct tape is no bueno

Sent from my Motorola DynaTAC 8000x

 

[krzyabncanuck]

I just ordered and got the other soft intake hose in front of that so it should still be able to be got a Toyota.

 

[brayden]

when i bought my 62, that thing had probably 5 layers of duct tape around it. that was 2 years ago, and i haven't touched it yet. still working (as a temporary fix, of course!) i will eventually fork out the cash for a new one. i've heard they cost around $75 - $80. can anyone confirm that price range?

 

[TEXASYETI]

Got one for my 60 recently. 80 bucks or so.

 

[Michael Hanson]

18 wheelers use large hoses, I have one from a truck on one of our fj62s. It works great and has been on for years.Not sure where it came from. MIke

 

[tonkota]

Try these guys:
HPS Silicone Hose - Performance Reinforced Silicone Hoses Manufacturer T-Bolt Clamp

I've not ordered from them, but when the red RTV fails on my intake hose, I'll probably go this route just for fun.

 

[Spook50]

Try these guys:
HPS Silicone Hose - Performance Reinforced Silicone Hoses Manufacturer T-Bolt Clamp

I've not ordered from them, but when the red RTV fails on my intake hose, I'll probably go this route just for fun.

That'd be a good way to go. Gotta live on the cheap until I get paid though. Can't even get the OEM part from Dan so I've got to jerry rig something up to last me a few days.

Sent from my Motorola DynaTAC 8000x

 

[Spook50]

Well no bueno finding anything in the junk yards nearby, but I got an el cheapo universal 3" ID flex pipe from Napa that should work as a temp fix. I see the 80mm ID hose from HPS is $55, so I'll go with that once I get paid and be done with it.

 

[doug720]

Try these guys:
HPS Silicone Hose - Performance Reinforced Silicone Hoses Manufacturer T-Bolt Clamp

I've not ordered from them, but when the red RTV fails on my intake hose, I'll probably go this route just for fun.

I tried the silicone hose on my diesel swap and would not recommend it. I used the hump on each end between the air filter housing and air intake on the engine with a aluminum pipe center section.

What I found was the silicone was too stiff and did not allow enough flex as the engine moved. It looked like it would destroy the air filter housing.

I went back to a flexible accordion style hose and all is well 12k miles later.

My 2 cents.

Doug

Before and after shots.

 

[Spook50]

I tried the silicone hose on my diesel swap and would not recommend it. I used the hump on each end between the air filter housing and air intake on the engine with a aluminum pipe center section.

What I found was the silicone was too stiff and did not allow enough flex as the engine moved. It looked like it would destroy the air filter housing.

I went back to a flexible accordion style hose and all is well 12k miles later.

My 2 cents.

Doug

Before and after shots.

With that short of a silicon hose (looks more like just couplers actually, which would explain why it was all so stiff) versus how you did the whole length with accordion style, I can see what you mean. Not sure how stiff the HPS hoses are, but a longer run I would think would allow much more flexibility, especially with as long of an intake runner 60s and 62s have (with diesel swaps too). Given the cost difference and the longevity of silicon, I'm still thinking the HPS part (need to measure so I can be sure if it needs an 80mm or an 83mm diameter) would do well in my application. It's longer than just a coupler so it should provide a little bit of flex to take up for engine vibrations with a gasoline. A diesel like yours OTOH could be a different story. Hopefully I don't upset the Cruiser Gods or end up having Dan put a hex on me for using a non OEM part

 

[doug720]

The short couplers I used were "Hump" hoses and made to allow flex, but not enough in opinion.

Even a long piece of silicone hose is very rigid compared to the "Flex" type. I tried a long silicone hose also, but over time I was still concerned about damage to air filter canister from engine movement and transmitted vibration.

The AF can is just sheet metal and a gas engine moves enough to damage it over time. My diesel is fairly smooth at idle, but I'm sure it still moves more than your gasser.

MHO is find a flex hose. Didn't someone post recently he was making new aftermarket intake hoses for Cruisers? Maybe a quick search.

Good luck

Doug

 

[Spook50]

The short couplers I used were "Hump" hoses and made to allow flex, but not enough in opinion.

Even a long piece of silicone hose is very rigid compared to the "Flex" type. I tried a long silicone hose also, but over time I was still concerned about damage to air filter canister from engine movement and transmitted vibration.

The AF can is just sheet metal and a gas engine moves enough to damage it over time. My diesel is fairly smooth at idle, but I'm sure it still moves more than your gasser.

MHO is find a flex hose. Didn't someone post recently he was making new aftermarket intake hoses for Cruisers? Maybe a quick search.

Good luck

Doug

I know back in the day (maybe still; would have to look) someone was making a cold air intake for the 3FE, but I wouldn't want to have another oil-type air filter in my rig. Lets too much particulate matter in, especially compared to a OEM filter. Plus a cone style filter of any type would negate the benefits of using a snorkel, which I plan to add in the near future. Now if an airtight housing could be fit in place over an OEM Toyota cone style filter, that'd be a great way to go with a cold air intake setup (especially in addition to the MAF conversion that Moby is working on). I'm going to have to snoop around now. You've got my curiosity piqued.

 

[astr]

I just destroyed my intake hose and this is what I plan to use: SCEET AIRCRAFT DUCTING from Aircraft Spruce It is tough, flexible and at $12/ft for 3", it hard to beat price-wise. They also have less expensive stuff impregnated with neoprene rather than silicon for $9.50/ft. Search for CEET Aircraft Ducting. The silicon stuff is called SCEET.

You can reinforce the ends where the clamps go by taking a strip of the fabric from an extra piece of duct and wrapping the end of the hose with this extra fabric using the red silicon sealer that you get at any automotive store as an adhesive. If you don't reinforce the end, eventually, the clamps will chew their way through the duct fabric.

Most aircraft service facilities at any airport carry this stuff.

Don't use the original Toyota wire clamps. Instead, use the band-type clamps so as to spread the clamping force over a larger area.

Edit: Decided that the 3.25" diameter duct would be more appropriate rather than the 3".

 

[Spook50]

I just destroyed my intake hose and this is what I plan to use: SCEET AIRCRAFT DUCTING from Aircraft Spruce It is tough, flexible and at $12/ft for 3", it hard to beat price-wise. They also have less expensive stuff impregnated with neoprene rather than silicon for $9.50/ft. Search for CEET Aircraft Ducting. The silicon stuff is called SCEET.

You can reinforce the ends where the clamps go by taking a strip of the fabric from an extra piece of duct and wrapping the end of the hose with this extra fabric using the red silicon sealer that you get at any automotive store as an adhesive. If you don't reinforce the end, eventually, the clamps will chew their way through the duct fabric.

Most aircraft service facilities at any airport carry this stuff.

Don't use the original Toyota wire clamps. Instead, use the band-type clamps so as to spread the clamping force over a larger area.

Edit: Decided that the 3.25" diameter duct would be more appropriate rather than the 3".

Just now caught your post. That's a really good idea using SCEET. I think I can probably get some from the junk bin in our backshop too. Just have to get a pair of proper clamps for it and I'd be good to go.

 

[The BurgerMeister]

I just destroyed my intake hose and this is what I plan to use: SCEET AIRCRAFT DUCTING from Aircraft Spruce It is tough, flexible and at $12/ft for 3", it hard to beat price-wise. They also have less expensive stuff impregnated with neoprene rather than silicon for $9.50/ft. Search for CEET Aircraft Ducting. The silicon stuff is called SCEET.

You can reinforce the ends where the clamps go by taking a strip of the fabric from an extra piece of duct and wrapping the end of the hose with this extra fabric using the red silicon sealer that you get at any automotive store as an adhesive. If you don't reinforce the end, eventually, the clamps will chew their way through the duct fabric.

Most aircraft service facilities at any airport carry this stuff.

Don't use the original Toyota wire clamps. Instead, use the band-type clamps so as to spread the clamping force over a larger area.

Edit: Decided that the 3.25" diameter duct would be more appropriate rather than the 3".

So, has SCEET proven to be effective for you or anyone else? Looking to replace the accordion hose, too.....

Thanks!

 

[billmc]

You can also try cleaning it and repairing the cracks with Shoe Goo. That stuff is amazingly strong and doesn't get brittle. Just be sure to get the hose back in place before it fully sets, so it sets in the right shape because is doesn't stretch much. I've used it on accordion hoses in the past and it's worked very well.

 

[The BurgerMeister]

You can also try cleaning it and repairing the cracks with Shoe Goo. That stuff is amazingly strong and doesn't get brittle. Just be sure to get the hose back in place before it fully sets, so it sets in the right shape because is doesn't stretch much. I've used it on accordion hoses in the past and it's worked very well.

I like that idea!

My dad used to use shoe goo on our sneakers when we were kids. Very tough stuff!