Install 60 dizzy and side panel (1 Viewer)

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Well I installed the big dizzy and replaced the side panel gasket. I will start it up tomorrow as soon as I go read the write ups on cooler mans website. Also have to figure out where the two ports on the dizzy go. I know one goes to the carb because Jim C drilled me a port on the carb when I sent it on to him! Wish me luck!
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if its a stock fj60 large cap, then use the outer port for vacuum advance, the inner port "the one u currently have hooked up" provides to-much advancement.
 
Advance the outer port...check. Cap off the inner port? It is a dizzy out of I believe an 87. I bought it from Georg about a year ago or so.....
 
yup just cap the inner
 
On a 60 (or a late 40) the inner advance diaphragm is the main advance that connects to ported vacuum on the carb base, and the outer one is connected to the High Altitude Compensation system. If it is connected and functioning, the HAC diaphragm gives an additional 6 degrees of advance above 3,930' elevation.
 
This is conflicting information!
 
It is. I put a big cap dizzy in my Pig a couple weeks ago, started with the vacuum line from the base of the carb to the inner diaphragm. It seemed to run fine. Read that it should go to the outer diaphragm so I switched it. Still runs fine.
 
This is conflicting information!

Just letting you know how it works on a stock truck. There may be more than one way to adapt it to an earlier truck.
 
not conflicting, if your motor has been De smoged then use the outer, you could try to use the inner but if you start pinging switch to the outer,

in a Desmoged motor with out an EGR to cool off the cylinders the inner port provides to much advancement and the motor will suffer from pre-ignition under hard acceleration.

1911 is right the outer port gives about 6* of vac advance, and to utilize this dizzy to its potential u should have Jimc recurve it.

but if you dont want to do that just use the outer port and set ur base timing just out of sight in the window and give it a run,

BTW i have been very happy with my large cap dizzy in my De-smoged 40
 
BTW i have been very happy with my large cap dizzy in my De-smoged 40


Agree. Was running a rebuilt '69 dizzy with the Pertronix. Big cap seems to run smoother at the freeway speeds, up to 65 MPH! Now that I'm thinking about it, it seems to run smoother at freeway speeds using the inner diaphragm. Been running with the BB half visible at the lower edge of the window. Just now set the BB right at the pointer and switched back to inner diapragm, will see how it runs tomorrow morning. Seat of the pants and my ear says there's a mild miss/slight roughness at freeway speeds on the outer diaphragm.
Was not aware that a functioning EGR cooled the cylinders...I assumed that injecting hot exhaust in place of cool air would increase cylinder temps. My Pig's 2F is about as de-smogged as you can get (bored 50 over, RV cam, '74 late-F head, '69 wide-runner intake manifold, Downey header, August '73 carb, 2 vacuum lines...)
Was thinking about running a vacuum line from one of the unused ports on the dizzy to a hand vacuum-generator...I have one from a brake-bleeder kit...mount the vacuum maker to the dash so I can adjust my advance manually while I drive.
 
Time out for family trip to pumpkin patch. Yeah! At last attempt, engine turned over would not start and backfired out of the tailpipe......loud!
 
Yes, one thing I don't care for with the big cap....that small adjustment availability.
I had to pull and re-clock once or twice to dial it in.
 
x2 up ur probably off a tooth or two
 
In the small amount of time after the patch of pumpkins I still have not gotten it to start. Still backfiring.

When I took out the original Dist. the rotor was pointing at the #2 spark plug. Am I wrong in assuming that there is only two ways the new one could go in. Either the exact same way or 180 degrees in the opposite direction. I am certain I had the rotor in the new one pointed in the correct posotion, but it may have been more towards the third spark plug. Anyway I KNOW it was not pointed in the 180 wrong position. Am I missing something? Of course I am doing this by myself so it is a little more diffucult than having someone start it for me (or attempt to). Maybe I can have my 5 year old sit in the drivers seat!
 
You really need to get the engine to TDC #1, then back up 7* to show the BB in the timing window.

Install dissy so rotor is pointing approx to #4 plug, and star tooth is at signal generator. See fig 13.19 in the haynes book for clarification.
 
Thanks Jim. Haynes is the only book I DONT have. I have every FSM, Chiltons and some ofther off the wall one. I will mess with it tomorrow. l tried to find the BB in the timiing window to no avail. I guess I will pull off the clutch cover and feel around for it.

PS Just to let you know, I did move the coil and the ignitor to the firewall and off the engine like you always suggest!
 
Remove #1 plug and turn engine by hand while poking in the plug hole w/ coat hanger or small screwdriver. You should be able to tell when the piston gets to TDC and starts back down. Find the TDC mark in timing window, then turn engine backwards a few degrees (7 to be exact) until the BB is aligned with pointer.
 
Was not aware that a functioning EGR cooled the cylinders...I assumed that injecting hot exhaust in place of cool air would increase cylinder temps.

its all about relative temperature, as the gases expand they begin to cool down, cast iron dose not like to shed heat, EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders, this inert exhaust displaces the amount of combustible matter in the cylinder.remember an EGR was designed to prevent the formation of NOx witch forms primarily when a mixture of nitrogen and oxygen is subjected to high temperature, the lower combustion chamber temperatures caused by EGR reduces the amount of NOx the combustion generates. because of the "Inert" gases in the cylinder it takes the spark that much longer in Advance to ignite the "Mixture" .
 
Take a look this post for a pretty detailed step by step on getting everything lined up that may help you. Make sure you confirm you have oil pressure when the engine fires up.
 
Take a look this post for a pretty detailed step by step on getting everything lined up that may help you. Make sure you confirm you have oil pressure when the engine fires up.

Thanks I will try this tonight and let you know!
 

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