Install 60 dizzy and side panel

[Coolerman]

I posted the extracts from the Haynes manual Jim C. refers to on my web page.

Might help as it has pics. Scroll down to the bottom of that page for instructions on stabbing the dizzy.

 

[FJ40Jim]

I don't see the pic of the star wheel pointed at the pickup coil. That's what allows the setting of the timing exactly before even starting the engine.

 

[Coolerman]

Hmmm your are correct! I also found a couple of broken links which I just fixed. I'll get the Haynes manual back out, find that pic, scan it and add it to the page tomorrow with the text to match. Thanks Jim! Always glad when folks find errors , things missing or bad info on the web page that I can fix.

 

[flaa1a]

Remove #1 plug and turn engine by hand while poking in the plug hole w/ coat hanger or small screwdriver. You should be able to tell when the piston gets to TDC and starts back down. Find the TDC mark in timing window, then turn engine backwards a few degrees (7 to be exact) until the BB is aligned with pointer.

Just checking but to turn it by hand you have to get a wrench on the crank shaft right?

 

[Pighead]

Just checking but to turn it by hand you have to get a wrench on the crank shaft right?

That's one way to do it. Or use the handcrank, or put it in 4th gear and the handbrake off and rock it and roll it. Or use the starter motor or use the fanbelts or a screwdriver blade between the flywheel teeth and the bellhousing...

 

[Weber Sarge]

If you ever bump it , hand crank it , or use the belts to turn that engine , make absolutely certain the ignition is turned OFF first !!
I accidentally started one or two that way.... one vehicle managed to pretty much run over my dumb a$$.
Sarge

 

[flaa1a]

I was changing the valve cover gasket anyway so I took it off and hit the starter until the first two arms were in the closed position. Walked over to the sight window and the BB was right there! Followed the directions on Ricardo's thread on how to stab the dizzy and got it on the second try! Started right up! Got the timing light and the BB is right on the pointer. That is correct, right? The BB is actually 7* BTDC so that is what you want on the pointer.

I had the advance tube that attaches to the carb base nipple and sucked/blew in it and it did not really affect the engine. If I remember once Jim C told me that was a way to check the advance. The vacuum tube that I am using may not be sealing well enough around the nipples on the carb or dist body.
It is 11 here or I would go give it a test run. i guess I will wait until morning. Thanks for the help everyone.
Randy

 

[RicardoJM]

...Started right up! ....

Sweet isn't it - did you confirm you have oil pressure? This is real important and in the excitement of getting things running - please do not overlook this and sieze your engine.

Got the timing light and the BB is right on the pointer. That is correct, right? The BB is actually 7* BTDC so that is what you want on the pointer.

The factory setting is BB on the pointer. Being at 5200 feet above sea level, my rig runs with the timing a bit more advanced than that, YMMV.

I had the advance tube that attaches to the carb base nipple and sucked/blew in it and it did not really affect the engine. If I remember once Jim C told me that was a way to check the advance. The vacuum tube that I am using may not be sealing well enough around the nipples on the carb or dist body. ...

It does not take much vacuum to activate the advance, but it is more than I want to do by sucking. I use a vaccum pump when I am checking on parts that are vacuum activated.

 

[flaa1a]

Confirmed oil pressure! Check.

 

[Coolerman]

OK I updated the FJ60 dizzy install page to include a couple of missing pics that Jim C. pointed out. I also changed the text to include more detailed information about putting the dizzy in.

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/5F.htm

Flaa1a, Jim pointed this out to me a couple of years ago, so I'll point it out to you.

You may want to re-locate the coil and ignitor to the inner passenger side fender well. Toyota moved it there for a good reason: To get it away from the heat and vibration of the engine.

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks for the update Coolerman, I'm only the delivery of a dented cover from installing my Jim C recurved Big Cap + coil & igniter.

 

[flaa1a]

Thanks cooler man. I did move the coil to the fire wall as Jim C recommended me to do that 2 Fj 55s ago! Thanks for all ur help everyone. Got it timed and it is running like Carl Lewis!!!! Happy Halloween!!!!

 

[77mustard40]

New Year Eve Install

I'm reviving this thread since I finally started by big cap install in my 8/77 FJ40 to replace and old model with Petronix. Here is the progress so far
Jim C recurved big cap and coil/igniter ready to go, but first I needed to clean up the dented cover i picked up and it was a real mess, take a look at the crap coming off and out of the cover! Ended up soaking it in gas and then pressure washing it to get all the crud out

Next I went after removing the cover and getting things ready to go back together

 

[77mustard40]

Now for questions...

What are the little deals that stick out off the block under the cover? They look like they are threaded, does something go there? Head gasket was replaced several years ago at a local shop (wish they painted the head after the valve job) and I'm wondering if something was missed?


Before I pulled the old components, I set the motor to 7* BTDC and confirmed that the #1 piston was on the compression stroke. With the cover removed, I went for a test install and seated the dizzy. Next I mounted the coil and igniter to the fender in place of the old and started looking at the wiring. It looks like the connection from the coil to the big cap is too short, is this a common problem? Looks like I need to slice wire into this to make it reach the dizzy.


If I understand what I have read in other threads, the large black/yellow wire is the one that will need to be connected to the larger connector coming off the igniter. Also wondering if I should re-attach the black/white ground to the base of the mounted coil the way I found it? I know the coil on the 60 series coil igniter is self grounding through the mount, just wonder if I should reattach this ground in the wiring harness?

 

[FJ40Jim]

What are the little deals that stick out off the block under the cover?
They look like they are threaded, does something go there? Head gasket was replaced several years ago at a local shop (wish they painted the head after the valve job) and I'm wondering if something was missed?

Casting titties. Nothing to see here, move along.

I mounted the coil and igniter to the fender in place of the old and started looking at the wiring. It looks like the connection from the coil to the big cap is too short, is this a common problem? Looks like I need to slice wire into this to make it reach the dizzy.

Yes, an FJ60 igniter will need to have the signal lead lengthened, or move the ignitor closer to the engine block.

If I understand what I have read in other threads, the large black/yellow wire is the one that will need to be connected to the larger connector coming off the igniter.

Yes.

Also wondering if I should re-attach the black/white ground to the base of the mounted coil the way I found it? I know the coil on the 60 series coil igniter is self grounding through the mount, just wonder if I should reattach this ground in the wiring harness?

If it was grounded before, then it should remain grounded.

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks Jim, working on extending connections now in the comfort of home in front of the fire. Appreciate wiring confirmation, Happy New Year.

 

[77mustard40]

Big thanks to Jim C for the recurve, Coolerman for your contributions and website and 1911 and others. Just finished the install and new plugs. Two pumps of the pedal and half choke and she fired right up. Put the timing light on her and I was about a BB width off perfect pointer timing.

I will report back on drivability and economy after collecting some data. Cheers Gents!

 

[firestopper]

Big thanks to Jim C for the recurve, Coolerman for your contributions and website and 1911 and others. Just finished the install and new plugs. Two pumps of the pedal and half choke and she fired right up. Put the timing light on her and I was about a BB width off perfect pointer timing.

I will report back on drivability and economy after collecting some data. Cheers Gents!

Don't forget to plug or run the vent lines on the dizzy cap to keep moisture out.
firestopper

 

[77mustard40]

Don't forget to plug or run the vent lines on the dizzy cap to keep moisture out.
firestopper

Yep. Picked up a small air cleaner at NAPA today, just need to measure the openings and pick up some vac line and set it up. Saturday project.

 

[Pighead]

One other nice thing about the 60 dizzy install, I found a wire that wasn't being used and hooked the wire from my aftermarket tach to it...and it works.