Inspection results and a few questions (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Threads
7
Messages
21
Location
Greenville
So, I ended up at Toyota of Greer earlier today, which I just happened to be driving past, and I decided to roll in and get an inspection. They came up with a list of issues, most of which I was already aware of. But, there were 3 things which all jumped out at me because they were expensive:

1. Replace both O2 sensors. They quoted $371 and $445 respectively to fix them. Anyone know if there is a cheaper work around to those, otherwise, I think the CEL will just be my new dashboard buddy.

2. My front axle shafts are borked and leaking badly, which I knew, but they quoted $1200 to fix it. How hard is this to do on your own with access to a shop and a few mechanically inclined friends (both of which I have, :o)? I really don't want to shell out that much if I don't have to. But, this is the only part which I am sure has to be fixed, so I do need to do it. I'm guessing that it must be fairly involved if they can so casually drop that kind of number.

3. Finally, they also recommended replacing all the U joints at a cost of $320. How hard is this to do?

Everything else they found, I feel competent enough to do (like trannie/brake flush, replace valve cover gaskets, new motormounts, etc). But, the first 3, I just don't know enough about to guess on, and I figured you all would, :)
 
I can't remember what kind of model / year cruiser you have but a quick answer is probably what you already know.

Dealership prices involve lots of expensive labor units (especially on something like a front axle service). The good news is that you look like you can avoid that since you have the facilities, help and know how - plenty of members close to you that can help with the know how part...

You'll just need to source the parts and there are many options for that, namely Rick Arflin at Ralph Hayes Toyota down your way since they are a primary club sponsor and UC club members get 25% off.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=65205

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=125335

Good luck!!
 
I'd check with Ralph Hayes before I went any further. Then if your not happy with the price tyhen yes you can do that stuff on your own. But first what year is your cruiser?
 
Its a 92, IMHO price seems petty high for O2's. Sensor for my wifes 100 was a little over a $100 at Ralf hayes. All the OEM parts for a front rebuild should be under $300 so buy a factory manual, search the 80's section http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php and dive in. U-joints? are you having vibrations from your drive shafts?
 
1. Replace both O2 sensors. They quoted $371 and $445 respectively to fix them. Anyone know if there is a cheaper work around to those, otherwise, I think the CEL will just be my new dashboard buddy.

If you have a 1992 (3FE) there is only one 02 sensor, post cat. Later model (1FZ) have two, one pre, one post cat. They got this wrong and the price is too high. I would order the sensors from RHT and do it yourself. If the bolts aren't rusted it is literally 1 plug and 2 12 or 14mm bolts in plain view to get this done yourself.

2. My front axle shafts are borked and leaking badly, which I knew, but they quoted $1200 to fix it. How hard is this to do on your own with access to a shop and a few mechanically inclined friends (both of which I have, :o)? I really don't want to shell out that much if I don't have to. But, this is the only part which I am sure has to be fixed, so I do need to do it. I'm guessing that it must be fairly involved if they can so casually drop that kind of number.

I assume by front axle shafts you mean the knuckles are leaking. This repair has been covered MANY times and $1200 is not uncommon for shops since it is very messy and time consuming (all labor). Parts are a lot less than this ($250 to $350 depending on if you do bearings and races) and you can do the work yourself with the FSM and/or someone that has done it before.

3. Finally, they also recommended replacing all the U joints at a cost of $320. How hard is this to do?

If you don't have vibrations and they will certify the truck without doing this, I would simply grease them up and call it a day. If you do have vibrations $150 per driveshaft for new U-joints, including parts, is not uncommon. The work is not too bad, again, if you know what you are doing. A press is handy for this type of work if you are doing it yourself.

Everything else they found, I feel competent enough to do (like trannie/brake flush, replace valve cover gaskets, new motormounts, etc). But, the first 3, I just don't know enough about to guess on, and I figured you all would, :)

Do not "flush" the tranny. Drain it. Refill. If you want to do the filter, just pull the pan and clean the metal filter. Don't buy a new one...no need. Once you pull the pan, clean the filter, and refill...drain and refill it for the next two oil changes. It will clean itself and not stir up a bunch of crap and clog the valve body.

Brake flush is straight forward.

Valve cover gasket leaks are usually caused by loose bolts and blocked PCV valves. I would try these/add these on when you do this gasket.

Motor mounts? They suggest you get new motor mounts? Aside from looks, are you seeing the engine move when you torque? Fan hitting shroud, etc?

Odd...

Anyway...that is my two cents :)
 
the axle rebuild isn't technically hard but is rather time involving....... you would most likely need to set aside a full day for that job. as has already been stated there are members who have done axle rebuilds before and would be willing to lend a hand :D
 
the axle rebuild isn't technically hard but is rather time involving....... you would most likely need to set aside a full day for that job. as has already been stated there are members who have done axle rebuilds before and would be willing to lend a hand :D

Sometimes it is a full day and a little bit more, depending on the unknown state of the axle before you rip it into it... :D
 
Awesome, thanks for the help.

Regarding the motor mounts, they said they were completely sheared off. I believe them, because the engine clunks in the bay pretty hard when it shifts. The truck was involved in a front end collision, so they probably broke then and never got replaced. I dunno.

I must only have 1 O2 sensor then, but it seems weird that a toyota mechanic wouldn't have realized that. But, equally good to know that it is something I can take care of myself!

I'll definitely look into the axle links you guys put up, and go from there.
 
Motor mounts are not bad if you have a hoist to move said big motor out of the way...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom