Inside door handles

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Nothing wrong with the approach ginmtb took to cure the rattle. Not having access to the bushings he used I revised his first approach. I defined the center line of the stepped pin and then drilled a 1/8" diameter hole (drill for tap) 3/8" deep. Then I used a 1/4" diameter bit, a piloted wood bit that is "square" rather than have the 59* lead, to remove the peened portion. Then I set the unit on top of a deep well socket and punched the pin out. Clamped in a vice I tapped the hole. I found a washer that was .062 thick that required just a slight amount of Dremel sanding drum to fit over the pin. Assembled I screwed in a 3/4" long screw with blue threadlocker in the hole. I put a washer over the hole and installed two nuts. I adjusted the first nut to take out the slack and then jammed the second nut on so that it can't back off when operating the handle. I do not recommend this approach, it is too easy to screw up the pin and/or break the small tap off. What I will do (I will provide a sketch later) is have two new pins turned and rather than peen the end over to secure I will have it welded in two or three spots to secure. But what I did solved the rattle. The plastic handle on the passenger door was not loose and did not rattle, like the drivers side so I mixed up some JB Weld and used a toothpick to push it down between the plastic and the steel handle to hopefully cure that rattle as well.

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On the topic of handles... Has anyone came up with a fix for play in the square hole? I'm thinking of making a shim out of aluminum to tighten it up. Either two pieces of angle, box, or bending some sheet metal.

Another option would be to build it up by weld (or brass) and then grind for a snug fit.

Thoughts?
 
The square hole? The one the outside handle fits into? I haven't seen that be an issue.

I've had issue with the hole in the door skin going oblong, and have mig-ed that hole smaller and filed out.

I've had issue with the retracting part of the latch wearing out the socket in the latch body, causing the door to rattle. I have pulled that piece out and welded it until it filled the hole.

But not the square hole for the outer handle.

Mark
 
The sliding latch on one of my CCOT inside door handles cracked, I think it is a cast piece. I had a local machine shop fab me a new one. Charged me $20, and it fills the latch body quite nicely. I've not had a problem with the square hole in the paddle handle body, however, as noted, the hole in the door is a bit sloppy on the handle shaft. I like Mark's fix better than mine, but a few wraps of duct tape took care of the rattle:).
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Well it took me forever but I finally got this project done! I still need to make one more but this one turned out great. Really happy with it! Not going to get rich making these things. Used a belt sander to get shape, drill press for hole in handle, and a file to take off the sharp edges.

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I agree, they are available, however, even these require some attention. The pivot screw for the handle rattles and the plastic knob for switching from locked to unlocked is sharp and a great finger pincher. So I certainly understand the need to fabricate on our own to improve the condition of the equipment.
 
How do the aftermarket handles compare to OEM ones? I am guessing all the aftermarket ones being sold are probably made by same place.
Would used OEM handles in reasonably good condition and rebuilt/reconditioned be better than the aftermarket handles?

The only new OEM handles I've found available are passenger side ones from Cruiser Corps. It isn't the price but availability, would like OEM if possible, but used OEM handles will probably have rough looking handle grips.

But if someone made OEM style handle grips and I got a pair of good used handles, can they be restored to like new or are the going to be worn parts that can't be repaired to look new?

Allen
 
Can someone with the aftermarket part post a pic? Kind of curious...The vendors only show the marketing shots, and those look pretty good. Most of the OEM ones I've seen are in pretty poor state, so one would think a new one can't be a step back.
 
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The square hole? The one the outside handle fits into? I haven't seen that be an issue.

I've had issue with the hole in the door skin going oblong, and have mig-ed that hole smaller and filed out.

I've had issue with the retracting part of the latch wearing out the socket in the latch body, causing the door to rattle. I have pulled that piece out and welded it until it filled the hole.

But not the square hole for the outer handle.

Mark
Yes, the square hole where the outside handle goes through.

On the drivers side, there was a lot of slop. I filed it square again and hammered in a 90 deg aluminum shim into the gap to make the smaller inside square tight in the somewhat larger square hole. The nut tightening down on the assembly holds it all tight together... now the outer handle doesn't droop.
 
Decided to round it off more - I like this better, not as blocky.

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Looks good, I'd probable round it off even more. :D

Can you use a cotton buff to polish it... or a torch to heat it and remove the tooling marks?
 
@JohnnyC So you have a printer only but not a scanner? Best way would be to scan the OEM one so that you'll have an exact duplicate.

yep .... no scanner... If somebody had the time to make a file in tinkercad (and online free 3d program) I would be able to try and print one... I have green, dark green, white, and black filament

If they come out good I can see about purchasing my own gray filament to use for others
 
Looks good, I'd probable round it off even more. :D

Can you use a cotton buff to polish it... or a torch to heat it and remove the tooling marks?

Okay, I'll work on it more later. I have some plastic polish and a polisher I'll see if that will work. I'll do a test on my leftover material to see if heat works also. Goal will be to look like this (well, maybe some day I'll paint the assembly so it looks purdier):

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Okay after spending way too long extracting the sheared off screw here is the best it is going to get:

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I used 400/1000/1500 wet sandpaper to get a pretty nice finish.

One thing I didn't know was how much easier the doors are to open with the extra length of the handle. So nice now!
 

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