- Thread starter
- #101
Know what really sucks? I did the PHH about 900 miles before starting all of this work (along with a ton of other PITA engine maintenance).
Inexperienced noob about to tear my FZJ80 apart - Any tips to re-emphasize before rebuilding axles, brakes, steering, and suspension? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Joe Link
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Know what really sucks? I did the PHH about 900 miles before starting all of this work (along with a ton of other PITA engine maintenance).
- Thread starter
- #103
This entire project has gotten out of hand. At this point I feel like I have no other choice but to lean into it. I blame you guys 
I bought this 5.3L LM7 years ago, to swap into my Impala when someday I had the skills. I feel like I'm already playing with fire, so....
I bought this 5.3L LM7 years ago, to swap into my Impala when someday I had the skills. I feel like I'm already playing with fire, so....
At this rate at least one of us will have a drivable rig by Summer, right?
Yeah - One look at having to integrate all of that wiring and I passed. I'd be hunting electrical gremlins for 3 years.
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- #107
This is by far the scariest part for me, but like the rest of what I'm doing, it's something I've always wanted to learn. I feel like the only way to minimize the risk of being stranded in the middle of nowhere is to either pay a reputable shop (like you're doing) or to learn the wiring inside and out (my plan). I think anywhere in between is asking for trouble. Reliability and simplicity are my main goals/focus, but I'm still incredibly nervous. Hoping this is one of those "you get out what you put in" types of things, as I'm willing to put in the time and effort. Fingers crossed!
Hi guys, incredible amount of great information here. I looked through the chain but could not find part numbers for inner and outer bearings and seals for rear full floating axle. I have 97 with center diff lock only. Rear axle is leaking behind dust cover. I found the inner Timken numbers but need outer bearing and seal part numbers. Is there also a paper gasket involved? Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I don't have the part numbers for the bearings themselves but Cruiser Teq (Cruiser Outfitters) sells full seal/bearing kits. Partsouq also has a great search function that will allow you to find part numbers based on assembly drawings. There is a paper gasket between the drive flange of the axle and the hub on the rear full float axles, just had mine open last week.
No sealant. The paper gasket is the gasket.
Can also go to Cruiser Outfitters www.cruiserteq.com
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Yeah you don't need sealant, just a new gasket and CLEAN surfaces. When you remove the axle shaft scrape off any old gasket material that remains and clean up both surfaces (the axle flange and the hub surface). I removed the hub entirely so I used steel wool. If you're not taking the hub off be careful what you use as bits of the steel wool will shed and get into the bearings/hub. The point is to make sure the new gasket seals properly. Having clean mating surfaces is the way to get there.
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- #114
Work has kept me busy these last few months, finally got a chance to get back to this for a couple days. Man, I missed it!
Got the cat portion of the exhaust removed along with the rear heater hard lines (I'll be replacing the hoses and re-installing). Also removed the front fenders for easier access to everything, absolutely the way to go in my opinion. You don't have to separate the inner and outer fenders, pulling them while they're still bolted together is far easier. I've got a (fairly common) crack below the steering box, where the crossbar is welded to the frame. Made a template for reinforcing the frame in that area so hopefully it doesn't happen again.
Next up is welding the crack and the reinforcement plate, painting everything, and then getting the front axle/suspension put back together
Got the cat portion of the exhaust removed along with the rear heater hard lines (I'll be replacing the hoses and re-installing). Also removed the front fenders for easier access to everything, absolutely the way to go in my opinion. You don't have to separate the inner and outer fenders, pulling them while they're still bolted together is far easier. I've got a (fairly common) crack below the steering box, where the crossbar is welded to the frame. Made a template for reinforcing the frame in that area so hopefully it doesn't happen again.
Next up is welding the crack and the reinforcement plate, painting everything, and then getting the front axle/suspension put back together
Can you show a picture of the crack ?
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- #116
I don't have any great photos, but you can sort of see it at the very top of this one (two holes in the weld). Check out this thread for more info.
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- #117
Busy with work so thing are slow but I got the frame reinforcement plates welded in, frame painted, and front axle housing re-hung, and the knuckles re-installed 
Well, I mean - since you are this far in, why not just tear it down completely? Complete body off, frame up restomod. "While you are in there". 
Nice work, man.
Nice work, man.
Man, every time I look at this build I feel like I'm a complete slacker with mine.
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- #120
