I've been ordering parts for the better part of a year now in preparation for the rebuild of the axles, brakes, suspension, and steering on my 1996 FZJ80. It's been an expensive endeavor ($2k+ in just parts!), as all parts are OEM (except the P/S paperclip), but I'm hoping that once this is done they'll be ready for another quarter million miles. If it matters, the vehicle is factory locked with 262k miles, lifted on a OME J lift, running 33" tires (upgrading to 35's when they wear out).
My biggest obstacle is my own lack of mechanical experience, but I've always been a "learn by doing" type. I'm fortunate in that I have access to a lift, and if it takes me a week or two it won't be a big deal if the vehicle can't move.
I've probably spent 40 hours researching this, but I'm starting tomorrow and completely overwhelmed by the thought of all this work. I'm using today to refine my game plan as much as possible. Basically, I'm looking for any general tips but also tips which might make this easier considering everything will be done at the same time.
Axles (factory locked)
- Rebuilding both axles.
- Disassembling both driveshaft for inspection and replacing the U joints. Can't swing a DC driveshaft right now but I understand it'll probably be necessary in the future.
- Installing an ARB diff breather kit.
- Question: I'm thinking it'd be easier to rebuild the axles in the truck, both for breaking hardware loose and so I can adjust the height for comfort. Do you agree or is there something I'm missing?
- Question: My lockers seem slow to actuate, usually taking 50 yards or so. Is there any way to speed this up, or any sort of locker 'maintenance' I can/should do while I'm in there?
- Question: Can/should the rear birfields be swapped side to side like the front?
Suspension
This rig was wheeled before I got it, and I imagine it has over 100k on the current suspension. Quite a few of the bushings are cracked and disintegrating and a couple are missing entirely. I bought every piece of rubber I could find to replace. Once it's back on the ground with fresh bits I'll evaluate my angles and see what else I might need (panhard bars, adjustable upper links, bump stop drops, etc).
- Replacing all OEM suspension bushings.
- Replacing used OME J lift with new OME J springs, OME NitroCharger sport shocks, and the OME steering stabilizer.
- I've been running 1" Daystar plastic coil spacers in the front to correct the rake, which I'll be swapping out with 2" MetalTech spacers.
- I'll be removing the front OME caster correction bushings and installing MetalTech caster correction plates.
- Install Man-A-Fre swaybar drop kit.
Question: I have a press for bushing removal, any tips for easier installation?
Brakes
The brakes on this (like most 80's) have always sucked. I've heard good things about the Power Stop K1155-36 kit, so I went with that for pads and rotors.
- Function test calipers and rebuild/replace if needed. I came out of the store and noticed the face of the right front rotor is shredded, leaving metal shavings on the wheel, but it didn't make a sound (not sure how that can happen).
- Replace front and rear brake pads and rotors.
- I haven't decided if I'm going to keep or remove the LSVP, but I'm leaning toward removing it and installing a proportioning valve.
Steering
If I rock the steering wheel side to side going down the highway the vehicle takes a good while to respond and leans hard in the opposite direction. I'm not sure if it's due to the worn suspension, worn steering components, or both.
- Replace tie rod ends.
- The PS system has leaked since I bought it, so I'll replacing all of the hoses, clamps, etc, hoping it's not the pump or the box.
- I tried tightening the PS box screw a couple years back which seemed to help. I'll check this again after the new stuff is installed.
Other Notes
- I intend to paint everything as I go so that all of it looks new. I've never painted undercarriage parts before, so any cleaning/prep/paint tips are appreciated.
- If there's something I'm overlooking that I should do while I'm in there, I'd rather spend the money and do it now. A good example is the engine oil pan, which I think may be leaking.
Thanks in advance guys!
My biggest obstacle is my own lack of mechanical experience, but I've always been a "learn by doing" type. I'm fortunate in that I have access to a lift, and if it takes me a week or two it won't be a big deal if the vehicle can't move.
I've probably spent 40 hours researching this, but I'm starting tomorrow and completely overwhelmed by the thought of all this work. I'm using today to refine my game plan as much as possible. Basically, I'm looking for any general tips but also tips which might make this easier considering everything will be done at the same time.
Axles (factory locked)
- Rebuilding both axles.
- Disassembling both driveshaft for inspection and replacing the U joints. Can't swing a DC driveshaft right now but I understand it'll probably be necessary in the future.
- Installing an ARB diff breather kit.
- Question: I'm thinking it'd be easier to rebuild the axles in the truck, both for breaking hardware loose and so I can adjust the height for comfort. Do you agree or is there something I'm missing?
- Question: My lockers seem slow to actuate, usually taking 50 yards or so. Is there any way to speed this up, or any sort of locker 'maintenance' I can/should do while I'm in there?
- Question: Can/should the rear birfields be swapped side to side like the front?
Suspension
This rig was wheeled before I got it, and I imagine it has over 100k on the current suspension. Quite a few of the bushings are cracked and disintegrating and a couple are missing entirely. I bought every piece of rubber I could find to replace. Once it's back on the ground with fresh bits I'll evaluate my angles and see what else I might need (panhard bars, adjustable upper links, bump stop drops, etc).
- Replacing all OEM suspension bushings.
- Replacing used OME J lift with new OME J springs, OME NitroCharger sport shocks, and the OME steering stabilizer.
- I've been running 1" Daystar plastic coil spacers in the front to correct the rake, which I'll be swapping out with 2" MetalTech spacers.
- I'll be removing the front OME caster correction bushings and installing MetalTech caster correction plates.
- Install Man-A-Fre swaybar drop kit.
Question: I have a press for bushing removal, any tips for easier installation?
Brakes
The brakes on this (like most 80's) have always sucked. I've heard good things about the Power Stop K1155-36 kit, so I went with that for pads and rotors.
- Function test calipers and rebuild/replace if needed. I came out of the store and noticed the face of the right front rotor is shredded, leaving metal shavings on the wheel, but it didn't make a sound (not sure how that can happen).
- Replace front and rear brake pads and rotors.
- I haven't decided if I'm going to keep or remove the LSVP, but I'm leaning toward removing it and installing a proportioning valve.
Steering
If I rock the steering wheel side to side going down the highway the vehicle takes a good while to respond and leans hard in the opposite direction. I'm not sure if it's due to the worn suspension, worn steering components, or both.
- Replace tie rod ends.
- The PS system has leaked since I bought it, so I'll replacing all of the hoses, clamps, etc, hoping it's not the pump or the box.
- I tried tightening the PS box screw a couple years back which seemed to help. I'll check this again after the new stuff is installed.
Other Notes
- I intend to paint everything as I go so that all of it looks new. I've never painted undercarriage parts before, so any cleaning/prep/paint tips are appreciated.
- If there's something I'm overlooking that I should do while I'm in there, I'd rather spend the money and do it now. A good example is the engine oil pan, which I think may be leaking.
Thanks in advance guys!