Builds indycole's 2016 200 Series Build and Retrospective

[BVCOTaco]

Ya, I ordered 3 and they’ll be here Friday. Probably going to put my Slee 3-can basket back on in place of my RotoPax mount on my ladder side. Would love to free up interior space and move water outside.

When I eventually add a sub fuel tank, fuel cans will be a thing of my past.

Did the 3 can basket come with your Slee bumper or did you have to get that separate? I kind of assumed it came with it like it does on their 80 series bumper, but wasn't sure.

 

[Markuson]

Did the 3 can basket come with your Slee bumper or did you have to get that separate? I kind of assumed it came with it like it does on their 80 series bumper, but wasn't sure.

No. It’s an add on. The assumption is that you want to use the very stout ladder than come built in. The basket makes ladder use tough. If you really need the ladder, consider their hinged RotoPax mounting plate, which allows you to swing the pax out of the way for ladder use.

 

[BVCOTaco]

When I stopped at Slee they showed me a bumper they were installing, they said you can now mount a 4 gal rotopax behind the spare tire carrier. I might have to add the basket to the rear. Would be nice to use for cooler, water or extra fuel.

 

[Markuson]

When I stopped at Slee they showed me a bumper they were installing, they said you can now mount a 4 gal rotopax behind the spare tire carrier. I might have to add the basket to the rear. Would be nice to use for cooler, water or extra fuel.

Right. Regardless of what size mount on the ladder side, I have a 4 gallon RotoPax behind my spare.

 

[indycole]

Just a general update along with a ton of photos (primarily focused on the rear bumper).

Spare Parts in Baja

A few folks have asked about the spare parts we brought to Baja — especially which ones we ended up using.

To my knowledge we brought along the following specific to our LCs.

• Fluids and Lubrication: Engine Oil, Diff Oil, Coolant, Grease => we used a bit of coolant but wasn't a must have... we almost needed some diff oil
• Filters: Air Filter, Oil Filter (coincidentally I also had a cabin air filter but I just forgot to replace before the trip)
• Serpentine Belt
• Extra set of wheel studs
• Rear shock bolts for the lower mount
• Front shock bolts for the top mount
• Rear LCA bolts
• Front LCA hardware => used the nut and kept the bolt handy just in case as it got chewed up a bit
• Front UCA hardware => used the nut
• U-Joints
• Driveshaft hardware
• Oil pan drain plug
• I also heard there was a CV and a starter floating around?
• Various fuel, air, coolant hoses
• Assorted M6-M14 hardware

Here's a rundown of the part numbers from the order but I don't have the info off-hand to connect the dots for you.

Bumper Photos

I've received requests for more bumper photos and am happy to show off @reevesci's handy-work. The white lines near the driver-side combination light are a reflection. There's also a small scratch on the bumper itself from my shovel rubbing against it when I didn't strap it down tightly enough with the Quick Fist.

You can also see the Baja Designs Squadrons I mounted to the light pole behind the tire. The cable goes through a rubber grommet behind the quarter panel plastic into the bottle jack bay. Pretty simple. The lights are actually white with yellow covers so I can do yellow or white light. The lights are dimmable as well.

 

[indycole]

Preparation for New Storage System

As mentioned in the last update, I decided to redo some of my electrical as part of preparing for the Trekboxx install later this month.

• Installed Trekboxx rear monitor cover and took off the Escape Gear stuff for cleaning.
• Moved the ham radio to the glovebox. I had intended on mounting it behind the dash but it was honestly more trouble than it was worth. However, I did successfully mount an Icom speaker in the headliner near the overhead console which was both easy and clean. I may need to revisit the mounting location with some felt tape, though.
• I re-routed the 6 awg power to the bottle jack bay through the quarter panel. The quarter panel was surprisingly easy to remove.
• The bottle jack bay is now home to a Blue Sea fuse block, a Blue Sea dimmer for the rear light, and a relay for the fridge power.
• There will be Blue Sea Belowdeck Power Panels on both the passenger and driver side Trekboxx wings. I've prewired this to include 1 12v plug, 1 dual USB socket, and 1 dual Powerpole socket on the driver side and 1 12v plug + 2 dual USB plugs on the passenger side.
• The passenger side also includes an on-off switch (driving a relay) for the fridge power, an on-off switch for the light pole on the bumper, and a dimmer switch for the same light.
• The driver side has a blank switch panel for accessories to be named later (perhaps water pump/heater if I go all-in with an onboard water setup).
• Picked up a National Luna refrigerator.

Resonator Removal

This happened maybe one hour after I took the bumper pictures above. Obviously, the spare tire still impacts clearance but I wanted to remove the resonator for situations where I'm either running a single spare tire or have both tires mounted on the bumper. Adios, resonator.

Headlamp

Anyone else have condensation problems with the headlamp? This has been going on for a while and I've been unable to find the source of the leak. I'm thinking about stopping by the dealer hoping this will be covered under my extended warranty.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Just a general update along with a ton of photos (primarily focused on the rear bumper).

Spare Parts in Baja

A few folks have asked about the spare parts we brought to Baja — especially which ones we ended up using.

To my knowledge we brought along the following specific to our LCs.

• Fluids and Lubrication: Engine Oil, Diff Oil, Coolant, Grease => we used a bit of coolant but wasn't a must have... we almost needed some diff oil
• Filters: Air Filter, Oil Filter (coincidentally I also had a cabin air filter but I just forgot to replace before the trip)
• Serpentine Belt
• Extra set of wheel studs
• Rear shock bolts for the lower mount
• Front shock bolts for the top mount
• Rear LCA bolts
• Front LCA hardware => used the nut and kept the bolt handy just in case as it got chewed up a bit
• Front UCA hardware => used the nut
• U-Joints
• Driveshaft hardware
• Oil pan drain plug
• I also heard there was a CV and a starter floating around?
• Various fuel, air, coolant hoses
• Assorted M6-M14 hardware

Here's a rundown of the part numbers from the order but I don't have the info off-hand to connect the dots for you.

Bumper Photos

I've received requests for more bumper photos and am happy to show off @reevesci's handy-work. The white lines near the driver-side combination light are a reflection. There's also a small scratch on the bumper itself from my shovel rubbing against it when I didn't strap it down tightly enough with the Quick Fist.

You can also see the Baja Designs Squadrons I mounted to the light pole behind the tire. The cable goes through a rubber grommet behind the quarter panel plastic into the bottle jack bay. Pretty simple. The lights are actually white with yellow covers so I can do yellow or white light. The lights are dimmable as well.

Looks great, solid work.

But I have to say, that sensor is just not in a good spot, it’s just asking to be dragged and damaged on something. It’s also aided down, that would go off all the time if wheeling with grasses.

 

[Willy beamin]

Remember You can turn off sensors no biggie. I agree placement is not optimal. I never even hooked mine back up
Nicely outfitted truck man

 

[indycole]

Looks great, solid work.

But I have to say, that sensor is just not in a good spot, it’s just asking to be dragged and damaged on something. It’s also aided down, that would go off all the time if wheeling with grasses.

I guess due to pre-bumper days I'm already accustomed to replacing sensors so it's just not a huge deal to me. Obviously, it'd be better to never have to worry about that but it's a trade-off I'm okay with, personally. Just curious, any thoughts on how you'd rework it? I guess you could locate the sensor higher or figure out a way to recess it?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I guess due to pre-bumper days I'm already accustomed to replacing sensors so it's just not a huge deal to me. Obviously, it'd be better to never have to worry about that but it's a trade-off I'm okay with, personally. Just curious, any thoughts on how you'd rework it? I guess you could locate the sensor higher or figure out a way to recess it?

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking. Maybe the panel that’s above it, that will aim it more to the rear and strait out like stock. That would be way better.

I feel it’s one thing if a sensor gets damaged from a rear end collision. Can’t stop that, but to be mounted low on a natural drag line is bad, so really anywhere higher. Shouldn't be too hard to move, drill a hole that will clear the swing arm pintle. Then you could weld in the hole or just put in a rubber plug.

 

[Markuson]

If I ever lose a sensor, I won’t know it...since I turned mine off within a few days of buying my 200. They drove me nuts.

 

[linuxgod]

I turned mine off as well, but I had the same thoughts - I don't understand why the sensor wouldn't get mounted higher up in the bumper unless there's an internal clearance issue. The factory Toyota bumper has it higher up and only angled with a slight down tilt and slight angle towards the outside corners

 

[Romer]

I turn them on when in tight parking situations in town. Otherwise, mine are off. It does come in handy parking downtown

 

[Willy beamin]

I will say when designing and working in my rea bumper the space is limited behind the bumper and frame for
Moumting options. The struggle is real

 

[RET2]

I will say when designing and working in my rea bumper the space is limited behind the bumper and frame for
Moumting options. The struggle is real

Tell me, I'm trying to install a shore power pass thru

 

[Roy Park]

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking. Maybe the panel that’s above it, that will aim it more to the rear and strait out like stock. That would be way better.

I feel it’s one thing if a sensor gets damaged from a rear end collision. Can’t stop that, but to be mounted low on a natural drag line is bad, so really anywhere higher. Shouldn't be too hard to move, drill a hole that will clear the swing arm pintle. Then you could weld in the hole or just put in a rubber plug.

Would it be possible to relocate the sensors to the tire carrier/Jerry can carrier? Seems like that would be the first point of contact in a situation where you need them anyways.

 

[TexAZ]

you guys are putting way to much thought into this parking sensor

Problem solved.

you're welcome.

 

[Roy Park]

you guys are putting way to much thought into this parking sensor

View attachment 1682095

Problem solved.

you're welcome.

Is that a rubber chicken or a sex toy?

 

[TexAZ]

up to you man....up to you....

what happens behind the cruiser stays behind the cruiser

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Would it be possible to relocate the sensors to the tire carrier/Jerry can carrier? Seems like that would be the first point of contact in a situation where you need them anyways.

Yeah, you would just need to extend the wiring harness to make its way up to that point. The wiring would still be short enough to not have voltage drop issues.

If it was me, I would but the Toyota wiring connectors, and make a plug n play adapter that adds wiring length without cutting into the factory wiring.

But now that I’m think of the negative issues, you’ll have a wiring harness that needs to be ready to handle the moving of the swing arm, and not get caught on stuff when loading and unloading the cargo area.

So yeah, anything is possible, just need to make sure its not going to create another problem.

Another thing to think about is that the sensor doesn’t need to be on something that makes first contact, it just needs to be positioned to “sense” something before it makes contact.

And I know most don’t care about the parking sensors, but there’s no reason to treat an 80k LC like a beater ‘90s Jeep and cut items out.