In college and need baselining maintenance opinions (1 Viewer)

[sunnyjayS]

First post since getting a LC, go easy on me. I purchased a 2000 LC in August at 177k and am going through some baselining. So far I have gotten the TB/WP completed using an Aisin kit, lower ball joints, and inner and outer tie rods. Currently at 183k. This has all been a learning experience for me, and it definitely still is. I am a college student, don't have a lot of time, have a good tool kit but not much that's auto-specific, and have gotten everything done so far at my local mechanic. I took it to him last week to get some opinions. I knew I needed to do CV's (boots ripped, throwing grease), probably valve cover gasket (slight oil leak in engine, smelling the burning oil), and probably a rear U-joint (squeak when in reverse, sounds "cyclic"). I also have a visual positive camber that I knew had to be due to something wearing out. Also, I have the R-D and D-R clunks, but I wasn't too worried about that. Here's his opinion:

replace CV's
replace both front wheel bearings
replace valve cover gasket
replace rear u-joint
and his biggest concern, far above the rest, was the clunk. He told me he thought I should replace my transfer case before I did anything.

I've read the clunk threads, the clunk goes away when I lock the CD, which could lend itself to the plausibility of a T-case issue I think? The D-N-R clunk seems like it could be handled with the CV replacement potentially, or at least helped, feels like it's up front. The R-D clunk feels more underneath the driver seat. He test drove it while it was there and felt what I'm assuming is the R-D clunk, and it is pretty jarring sometimes, which is why he was so concerned about it. He's not a cruiser specialist, but I know for a fact he's honest, always tries to minimize the labor time, and he is very easy to work and communicate with, even previously allowing me to come to the shop on days when they're closed so he could work on my vehicle and let me look at parts. And I know he's rebuilt toyota and 100 series engines. His labor quotes were very fair on everything listed above.

Also I just found out that the brown radiator is apparently a sign of impending doom and mine is definitely brown.

So I guess my questions are:
- Should I get the radiator, hoses, heater ts replaced when I take it to him? Is there any of this that I could do myself that will save me that much more money than letting him do it while he's already in there?
- I do have a budget as I'm in college, can't afford OEM axles at the moment, and CardoneHD axles are all out everywhere I've looked, is it an OK plan to get regular Cardone or other RockAuto axles for him to install, keep my oem axles, reboot, and keep for later? I don't have any noises (I really only drive 10-15k miles a year currently; hopefully more when I baseline and can weekend trip to camp, but not much more) and I don't go offroad for the sake of offroading, just to get to places to camp/fish, which will probably never be too serious. And not that often. Not planning on building out, bought it to take me where I want to go and wanting to get it there.
- Should the wheel bearing be replaced or repacked? And does that sound like it's probably what's causing the camber?
- And the T-case... I mean when I go from reverse to neutral and let it roll a few feet before shifting to drive there's no clunk... maybe I could just make that my normal routine and pretend like it doesn't exist? Haha I really don't want to shell out money for a new t-case. Looking for some opinions I guess, clunk threads were pretty inconclusive.

That's a lot of different topics and questions all rolled into one, I've been trying to read threads and piece the info all together but at this point I've got some studying to do and need to order some parts soon, so I thought I'd make a post. Thanks in advance!

 

[Texsun84]

For the clunk I would try greasing the u-joints and driveshaft before anything else. They take different kinds of grease but it’s still a cheap cheap start compared to the t-case and probably needs to be done anyway

 

[jahawk]

The clunk is more likely TC mounts being bad than the TC. I would definitely start with greasing the u-joints.

Some of Napa's CV's are rebuilt Toyota. I usually have to order 4-5 and return the ones that aren't OEM.

Jim

 

[jLB]

his biggest concern, far above the rest, was the clunk. He told me he thought I should replace my transfer case before I did anything.

Specifically for the driveline “clunk”…

If you’re replacing the CV axles (preferably with OE), replace the drive flanges.

Replace the front differential bushings.

These two things should make a huge difference. You should also be looking for other worn bushings in the suspension.

(Don’t replace the transfer case)

 

[sunnyjayS]

Specifically for the driveline “clunk”…

If you’re replacing the CV axles (preferably with OE), replace the drive flanges.

Replace the front differential bushings.

These two things should make a huge difference. You should also be looking for other worn bushings in the suspension.

(Don’t replace the transfer case)

For the other worn suspension bushings, is that in relation to the clunk or just good to replace in general?

 

[jLB]

For the other worn suspension bushings, is that in relation to the clunk or just good to replace in general?

A bit of both, but mainly good practice while you’re in there, they are 22 years old (probably close to your age).

I picked up a neglected “beater” 250k mile 1999 LX470 as a spare vehicle ~2.5 years ago. It had a horrible R-to-D/D- to-R “clunk”, like something was coming through the floorboard. The front differential bushings, a CV axle rebuild, and drive flanges, made a significant improvement, although it still has a bit more than our other two.

 

[Ayune]

For the valve cover leak, first try tightening down the bolts and see if that stops the leak. That's all it took for me and that was 40k miles ago. It's something you can easily do yourself with a 10mm socket on an extension. Those bolts are small, though, and only need to be gently snugged down (53 in-lb torque to be precise). You may find that some are actually loose, thus the leak.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

He told me he thought I should replace my transfer case before I did anything.

DONT LISTEN TO HIM. HE IS WRONG.

 

[kgrove]

The cheapest "fix" I've found for the D-R clunk is this: when you're backing up, drop the car into N and let it roll about a foot before you stop then shift into D after you've come to a stop. Obviously it fixes nothing, but could get you by until you're out of college and have the money to do it right with OEM parts. Do like we did in college and save your money for beer and weed.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Do like we did in college and save your money for beer and weed.