Figured DHL may be lower in customs fees and definitely won’t get hung up in the hub like FedEx can in Memphis.
I import a lot of items from Asia, and DHL shipments always seem to run the smoothest.
Impex is LEGIT 4 new AHC globes. Door To Door from Japan, less than 2 weeks (1 Viewer)
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I import a lot of items from Asia, and DHL shipments always seem to run the smoothest.
Anyone tried ordering them from Motors Head Japan lately?
www.parts-sale.jp
MOTORS HEAD JAPAN | Export Japanese Auto, Diesel, Motorcycle Parts
Diesel parts / Auto parts from Japan. We export New & Genuine parts. Honda, Zexel, Denso, Subaru, Yanmar, Mitsubishi, Toyota, Nissan, UD, Isuzu, Iseki and Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda Motorcycle parts. International Door-to-Door shipping.
www.parts-sale.jp
If you don't mind slower shipping of Japan mail to USPS you can get these globes from Motors Head Japan .. it can take 2 weeks or so if you go this route but shipping cost should be substantially cheaper.
Search - 49141-60010
Search - 49151-60010
Be sure to checkout with Yen to avoid any Paypal currency conversion fees
$440.28 USD + shipping... it will be cheaper if you don't use Fedex
Also some AHC fluid from vendors on eBay.. for those that don't know this is also used in the KDSS equipped LC and GXs.
PN: 08886-01805
08886-01805 for sale | eBay
Get the best deals for 08886-01805 at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!www.ebay.com
They’re about $390 for a set of 4, impex was $435. Either option beats the $880 per that toyota or Lexus expectsAnyone tried ordering them from Motors Head Japan lately?
MOTORS HEAD JAPAN | Export Japanese Auto, Diesel, Motorcycle Parts
Diesel parts / Auto parts from Japan. We export New & Genuine parts. Honda, Zexel, Denso, Subaru, Yanmar, Mitsubishi, Toyota, Nissan, UD, Isuzu, Iseki and Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda Motorcycle parts. International Door-to-Door shipping.
globes arrived today via FedEx. 5 days in transit was faster than I expected. I give IMPEX a C+ for packing but for the price it’s hard to complain.
I ended up buying globes from an Ebay seller named seagulls japan. They were at my door in under 2 weeks and very well packaged.
I, however, was not prepared for the mind bending torture of lining up the threads. The first one had me skirting the edges of my own sanity for about a half hour. The other 3 were easy, though.
I, however, was not prepared for the mind bending torture of lining up the threads. The first one had me skirting the edges of my own sanity for about a half hour. The other 3 were easy, though.
Motors Head wont ship them. I asked.Anyone tried ordering them from Motors Head Japan lately?
MOTORS HEAD JAPAN | Export Japanese Auto, Diesel, Motorcycle Parts
Diesel parts / Auto parts from Japan. We export New & Genuine parts. Honda, Zexel, Denso, Subaru, Yanmar, Mitsubishi, Toyota, Nissan, UD, Isuzu, Iseki and Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda Motorcycle parts. International Door-to-Door shipping.
Imagine the calamity if one of the seals broke in transit. Someone might hear a farting sound...Motors Head wont ship them. I asked.
Received my shipment notification this morning. If I’m lucky maybe they’ll arrive Friday and I can knock the swap out over the weekend.
My globes deliver Monday, so I’m loosening the old ones today in prep for what I hope will be a smooth removal/install.
That hope has vanished as I look at the front driver side setup. Any advice? I got front passenger out without removing the running board bracket, but the driver side has the pump in the way. I’ve not seen anyone talk about removing this, but visually I’m not sure you wouldn’t have to.
Also, can’t get to the bracket bolts but it looks like that will definitely have to somehow come out for this side
That hope has vanished as I look at the front driver side setup. Any advice? I got front passenger out without removing the running board bracket, but the driver side has the pump in the way. I’ve not seen anyone talk about removing this, but visually I’m not sure you wouldn’t have to.
Also, can’t get to the bracket bolts but it looks like that will definitely have to somehow come out for this side
This is what mine looks like… it was tight, but the new globe went right in without removing any brackets.
Your accumulator/ pump looks to be missing at least 1 bolt to the frame. Is it possible that the pump has become loose and is now closer to the front globe? Is the captive nut directly behind the mounting foot of the pump? Can the pump be convinced to move rearward, and away from the front globe? It doesn’t take much room to remove and replace the globe.
Ok good to know. I removed that bolt earlier to see if I could swivel the pump somewhat downward/out of the way. It’s still where it should be though.
If you got in there without removing the bracket, I’m sure it can be done. Made it work on the other side, so hopefully can do the same here.
You can do it!!!!
Just don’t let AHC fluid drip on your face. It makes the vision blurry, and it tastes terrible.
The front are supposed to be a bit smaller than the rear, correct?
Wondering if someone swapped rear to front. This is as far as I can back it out, and it’s already grinding into the running board bracket. The bolt/nut in the bracket are damn near inaccessible due to the depth of this globe. Can’t find the sweet spot combo of extenders/sockets.
Wondering if someone swapped rear to front. This is as far as I can back it out, and it’s already grinding into the running board bracket. The bolt/nut in the bracket are damn near inaccessible due to the depth of this globe. Can’t find the sweet spot combo of extenders/sockets.
BullElk
SILVER Star
I have used a rear globe on front passenger side with no issues but the rear globe will not fit on front drivers side.
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100% the fronts are about an inch shorter so they'd fit in that gap more easily. I've got a set on my workbench if you need any photos or measurements. That does indeed look like a rear globe fitted to the front.
while trying to figure out which tools work, I would spray everything heavily with penetrating oil. When you are done with this project I would recommend treating all rusty areas (on the truck, ahc lines etc) with a converter and then fluid film. This will make life easier in the future.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Good news is. Whomever put this larger rear globe in the front, must of remove at least one component from area. So those rusty old bolts, have been out. They should come out again, without busting. One is already missing from accumulator. I'd go after the running board bracket first.
I also notice bleeder cap missing from accumulator. 90% change bleeder will bust. But take heart, you can bleed around it. Bleeder caps missing from AHC (5), or brakes calipers (4), is asking for additional headaches and cost. The acumulator is thinnest walled bleeder of them all. They fill with water/dirty/minerals and freeze in. Even, damaging the seat for bleeder in acumulator/globes/calipers, due to rust pitting. For just a few $, I don't understand why shop don't replace them. Perhaps incompetency or insuring future revenue stream.
If bleeder does break. Trick is, as vehicle raises, open the door as soon as its up, not letting pump run the extra time to recharge accumulator. Then bleed rear and front globes.
You can draw off a little fluid to inspect for air and particles, after the fresh fluid in system.
Best, is to repeat flush a few times or until no sign of particles. Either use 2 tins (2.5L) of AHC fluid. Or filter the fluid.
I use Magnefine AT/PS (Transmission/Power Steering) inline filter with magnet built in. These filters. with filter down to below ~50 microns IIRC, then magnet catches iron filtering to below 5 microns. These are high flow near zero back pressure filters. I found, they work very well.
Second flush by filtering, is good idea regardless. I've found the fresh fluid of single flush has, a lot of particles that can be seen with naked eye.
I check fluid in a while plastis jar, for particles.
Look close, you can see 100's of specs in fluid. The eye can see, particles size down to 30 microns.
This fluid was, pre flushed from a brand new Toyota/Lexus ram (shock). It took 7 pre flush, before fluid ran cleared. Fluid pulled from system, will have a ton more particles, even after second flush. These particles wear on seals. Getting them out, is the number one reason we flush.
I've several ways I filter.
1) I draw through inline filter with a pump: Works well for sucking from reservoir or catch can. But my 12V pump is PITA to prime. I've another 120V pump, that self primes, but flow rate on high side.
It was @PADDO who first gave me the ideas. To preflush new shocks and the filtering fluid to save on cost of AHC fluid..
My favorite method is gravity feed through AT inline filter.
I use a SS sink as vessel, ball valve drain with filter attached to drain. I've multiple filters, each dedicated to a different type fluid in the shop.. Works very well!
I also use a stack of 50 micron pre filters in bottom inside of sink drain, depending on what fluid in shop I'm filtering.
Pre Filters in top of drain, somewhat hidden by dark fluid filtering through.
That’s what I thought after getting the passenger side globes off. I can’t figure out how they ever got this one in there. Soaked the bracket in pblaster last night, so hopefully it loosens up the bolts. Hoping the pump doesn’t have to be removed as well
Thanks for this great info! I actually removed the bleeder caps to bleed the system of old fluid/pressure before attempting to remove the globes. I do still have them, along with new bleeders arriving with my globes.Good news is. Whomever put this larger rear globe in the front, must of remove at least one component from area. So those rusty old bolts, have been out. They should come out again, without busting. One is already missing from accumulator. I'd go after the running board bracket first.
I also notice bleeder cap missing from accumulator. 90% change bleeder will bust. But take heart, you can bleed around it. Bleeder caps missing from AHC (5), or brakes calipers (4), is asking for additional headaches and cost. The acumulator is thinnest walled bleeder of them all. They fill with water/dirty/minerals and freeze in. Even, damaging the seat for bleeder in acumulator/globes/calipers, due to rust pitting. For just a few $, I don't understand why shop don't replace them. Perhaps incompetency or insuring future revenue stream.
If bleeder does break. Trick is, as vehicle raises, open the door as soon as its up, not letting pump run the extra time to recharge accumulator. Then bleed rear and front globes.
You can draw off a little fluid to inspect for air and particles, after the fresh fluid in system.
Best, is to repeat flush a few times or until no sign of particles. Either use 2 tins (2.5L) of AHC fluid. Or filter the fluid.
I use Magnefine AT/PS (Transmission/Power Steering) inline filter with magnet built in. These filters. with filter down to below ~50 microns IIRC, then magnet catches iron filtering to below 5 microns. These are high flow near zero back pressure filters. I found, they work very well.
Second flush by filtering, is good idea regardless. I've found the fresh fluid of single flush has, a lot of particles that can be seen with naked eye.
I check fluid in a while plastis jar, for particles.
Look close, you can see 100's of specs in fluid. The eye can see, particles size down to 30 microns.
This fluid was, pre flushed from a brand new Toyota/Lexus ram (shock). It took 7 pre flush, before fluid ran cleared. Fluid pulled from system, will have a ton more particles, even after second flush. These particles wear on seals. Getting them out, is the number one reason we flush.
View attachment 3774454
View attachment 3774455
I've several ways I filter.
1) I draw through inline filter with a pump: Works well for sucking from reservoir or catch can. But my 12V pump is PITA to prime. I've another 120V pump, that self primes, but flow rate on high side.
It was @PADDO who first gave me the ideas. To preflush new shocks and the filtering fluid to save on cost of AHC fluid..
View attachment 3774456
My favorite method is gravity feed through AT inline filter.
I use a SS sink as vessel, ball valve drain with filter attached to drain. I've multiple filters, each dedicated to a different type fluid in the shop.. Works very well!
View attachment 3774459
I also use a stack of 50 micron pre filters in bottom inside of sink drain, depending on what fluid in shop I'm filtering.
View attachment 3774496
Pre Filters in top of drain, somewhat hidden by dark fluid filtering through.
View attachment 3774498
