Can't you just off the neck but leave yourself enough so you can use vice grips to twist off the remaining nub?
Impex is LEGIT 4 new AHC globes. Door To Door from Japan, less than 2 weeks (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter halbeezy
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Haven’t fully ruled that out yet. No issues with getting it to turn, just no space at all to back it out any further than what is shown in the photo. So it could potentially work, I’ll have to check the available space to make sure though.
It’s risky. Got back under there this morning and the hard lines are so close behind the globe, it’s a gamble. I have no clue how the hell they go this thing in here unless they removed the pump, then bracket
Finally got the center bolt out. Popped a ***itol and grabbed the hammer. Beat and bent the bracket until it came off.
Confirming it was the rear globe. It still almost didn’t come off due to the pump. Took some serious manipulating to not put too much pressure on the unit while backing the globe out. Big FU to whoever installed this one, but at the same time very curious as to how they did it.
Here’s hoping everyone else’s were properly installed. I love when an hour long project turns into a multiple day job.
Nice work Cartelcruiser, i've learned to just laugh when a simple job has some unforseen twist and turns into a nightmare. Only seems to happen at the most inopportune time!
2005 LX with 113k miles, looking to change globes for maintenance as it probably needs them. Is it ever worth it to pull them off and do a pencil test, i'd need to bleed the system and waste a bunch of fluid right? So i figure i change them at the same time i flush the system.
Searching on Impex comes up with "no part found in our database" so i'm assuming it's out of stock, or should i be submitting a quote by email.
Partsouq is very expensive now, and megazip and amayama reporedly don't ship to the US, so that leaves me with eBay sellers, the two reported by other users still have globes available at a good price (600 for all 4).
Is this the best route to go at this point? I'm super distrusting of eBay and Amazon because i feel like people slap oem stickers on crap non OEM chinese parts and you have absolutely no recourse or way to tell. Aside from the packaging, would there be any other way to confirm the globes are OEM
2005 LX with 113k miles, looking to change globes for maintenance as it probably needs them. Is it ever worth it to pull them off and do a pencil test, i'd need to bleed the system and waste a bunch of fluid right? So i figure i change them at the same time i flush the system.
Searching on Impex comes up with "no part found in our database" so i'm assuming it's out of stock, or should i be submitting a quote by email.
Partsouq is very expensive now, and megazip and amayama reporedly don't ship to the US, so that leaves me with eBay sellers, the two reported by other users still have globes available at a good price (600 for all 4).
Is this the best route to go at this point? I'm super distrusting of eBay and Amazon because i feel like people slap oem stickers on crap non OEM chinese parts and you have absolutely no recourse or way to tell. Aside from the packaging, would there be any other way to confirm the globes are OEM
If I can’t get this rear driver side one off, I’ll sell you mine. I highlighted where it’s corroded together, been using PB overnight, torch next day, cranking at it to no avail.
It’s so corroded, and smooth that it almost looks welded together.
I’ll be ripping out the entire system and throwing Iron Man on it, if my buddy can’t get this off
IMPEX is sensitive to how you type part numbers. If I recall you need the dash or space sometimes to get where you can select and order.
Finally got that last one off with the help of a friend and a higher powered torch than what I had..this job turned out to be a real PITA. Stay away from northeast trucks!
Noticeable ride difference. What used to be jarring bumps at low speeds, and a pretty steady bounce on the highway has become very smooth.
Below are the part numbers for anyone who needs them (2x each number). Also for the bleeder screws.
Noticeable ride difference. What used to be jarring bumps at low speeds, and a pretty steady bounce on the highway has become very smooth.
Below are the part numbers for anyone who needs them (2x each number). Also for the bleeder screws.
Congrats, man! I know what it’s like to wrestle through a rusty crusty mess that is the bottom of my LX and come out the winner. It’s a relief and vow to never buy rust again
Had the same issue even with hyphens, or spaces when searching the part number. If you attempt to request a quote it gives you a link to where it is on the site.
New parts search — IMPEX JAPAN
en.impex-jp.com
New parts search — IMPEX JAPAN
en.impex-jp.com
Do you mind sharing the info for the mechanic you use? I just moved to the DFW area and I’m looking for a trustworthy mechanic to work my LX in case the need ever comes up.
For sure. Shop is called Leksfixit. Off of 75 & Plano Parkway.
Did you get yours in? Any noticeable improvement?
Not yet. I’m going to have them installed when I do the timing belt and all the fluids sometime next month. How’s the ride improvement on yours?
Definitely helped. My front passenger one was blown. Drivers wasn’t working right either, but my back two were fine and operable.
tackling the CV Axles next.
Good to know. Mine aren’t blown, but just about 25 years old. Hoping to eliminate some of the bouncing when driving. I had my CV boots done with the OEM rebuild kit right after I bought it.
Just an AHC recommendation…
AHC should not be bouncy, unless the pressure in the globes is seriously depleted. The system does a superb job of controlling bump jounce (bounciness) in a 5,500 pound vehicle. New globes, with their fresh nitrogen fill, will give a tighter response to bump jounce… providing that the fluid is clean, and there is no air in the system.
New globes is a GREAT idea. But a bouncy ride on AHC points me toward flushing/ bleeding the system. Aged ACH fluid can pick up particulates… dark specks in the fluid. These can occlude the damping force valving, leading to bouncy ride, and causing wear on the seals in the valving. New AHC fluid will not compress, and the damping valving will function as designed. Aerated, or foamy AHC fluid will compress, because of the air in the fluid. This will render the damping valving as not fully effective, due to the fluid compressing. Air in the lines or foamy AHC fluid should be flushed through until new fluid comes out.
New AHC fluid is pinkish/clear.
I agree - you may not think you have a bad globe, until you bleed them during a fluid flush and find lots of bubbles from a nitrogen leak.
Ok good to know. No idea when the last time the fluid was changed. I bought it in April of this year. It was very well maintained, but I know my fluid is definitely not clear. The fluid is obviously being changed when I do the globes so hopefully both of those things will help with the ride.
I just did a AHC fluid change thanks to the "ABC of AHC" thread and my ride is for sure improved. Really the ride is better than any car I have ever owned. I replaced the bleeders at the globes but could not replace the one at the accumulator as its a different length than the others and I didnt plan for that. I replaced the reservoir as well for good measure. The fluid I removed from the reservoir via vacuum pump looked clear but for sure not pink. The fluid I got from the bleeders was very dark and very foamy. My question is should does the foamy fluid for sure mean globes have lost some or all of there initial charge to the fluid I just removed? My globes have a 2002 date on them (2003 lx470, 104,000miles).
