Impending Vortec Swap

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I've been busy with the DMM. I posted over on ls1tech about my no throttle problem. Here is the thread in case anyone wants to follow along....opinions welcome.

No throttle on LQ4 swap. - LS1TECH
 
Did trans segment swap. Wrapping up loose ends. 70's in denver friday and decent today. Topped tcase off with gear oil. Tightening everything down and checking it thrice. Moved the cruiser forward and back about 1 ft each direction this morning, all under the power of the motor. Fingers crossed this transmission works!

All I need to do to drive it is....

-order new driveline nuts/bolts. Anyone got part numbers or is waiting for cruiser outfitters the only choice?
-tighten down motor mounts (been in need of a 2nd set of hands)
-mount front diff breather

Many other "polishing" things to wrap up
-mounting gauges
-put center console back together
-cruise control
-A/C
-looks like I have a small power steering leak
-pass emissions
-still need to figure out root of p1518 code
-final wiring tape
-finish tail pipe - it's been louder than I want, so maybe I need to add a resonator?
-bleed brakes
 
lazy said:
Did trans segment swap. Wrapping up loose ends. 70's in denver friday and decent today. Topped tcase off with gear oil. Tightening everything down and checking it thrice. Moved the cruiser forward and back about 1 ft each direction this morning, all under the power of the motor. Fingers crossed this transmission works!

All I need to do to drive it is....

-order new driveline nuts/bolts. Anyone got part numbers or is waiting for cruiser outfitters the only choice?
-tighten down motor mounts (been in need of a 2nd set of hands)
-mount front diff breather

Many other "polishing" things to wrap up
-mounting gauges
-put center console back together
-cruise control
-A/C
-looks like I have a small power steering leak
-pass emissions
-still need to figure out root of p1518 code
-final wiring tape
-finish tail pipe - it's been louder than I want, so maybe I need to add a resonator?
-bleed brakes
Click to expand...

What's a "trans segment" swap using HpTuner? It sounds like you copy/paste a block of code from one transmission to another transmission.
 
Correct. You find a tune in their tune repository that has the segment you want. Most cases it is guys changing the transmission. Their segment swapper utility pulls up both tunes and you chose what segments you want to copy over. In the case of transmissions, it is the trans and Trans diagnostics segments. Hit save. Flash the computer. Took about 30 mins from Googling, finding a tune, doing the segment swap and then walking out to the vehicle and flashing the pcm.
 
lazy said:
Correct. You find a tune in their tune repository that has the segment you want. Most cases it is guys changing the transmission. Their segment swapper utility pulls up both tunes and you chose what segments you want to copy over. In the case of transmissions, it is the trans and Trans diagnostics segments. Hit save. Flash the computer. Took about 30 mins from Googling, finding a tune, doing the segment swap and then walking out to the vehicle and flashing the pcm.
Click to expand...

Wow, that's really cool. Thanks for taking the time to explain it. I read your thread in the LS forum, hope you get your issues sorted out.
 
took a little cruise around the neighborhood. This p1518 thing is real. It kicked me into limp mode a couple of times. I think it may be a tune/TAC & APP compatibility issue. I'm going to purchase a tune for an 05 which I need to do anyway and hopefully that fixes the issue. I didn't get to feel the tranny shift and I have no power steering. My tie rod is also shot on my steering link.
 
Got any updates? I've been engulfed in all the swap threads and see very little of the 4l80e. I'm wondering how yours turned out, and how you like the 4l80e. As you pointed out, the 4l80e comes backed behind quite a bit, and I'm a bit nervous about the 4l60e. These are pretty heavy vehicles for the 60e/65e trans, but I'm worried about how the 2.48 first gear is gonna feel in the 80e.
 
I'm back on the project. Well, I've sort of been off and on with no success to report.

The limp mode thing was busting my balls. I checked the continuity time after time of all my wires and my grounds. I threw some parts at it (new OE throttle body, "new" used TAC and pedal). I ran new wires from the throttle body to the TAC and for the pedal. I still had the same issues.

About a year ago, I gave up and started looking for someone to finish the project for me. I found a guy who finished someone else's swap here on mud, and had my truck towed to him. A lot of promises to start got whittled down to this guy just doing the tune and I got my truck back 7 months after towing it to him with an incomplete tune, a $350 bill and about $150 in towing. And still a limp mode problem.

A couple months ago I went through all the threads on LS1TECH and found one where a guy switched to the old TAC, and not the "new" one which came with his motor. Running out of ideas, I ordered up the "E" TAC module with a "metal" gas pedal. This was nothing more than a hail mary before I ordered up a new stand alone harness (which is nothing more than another hail mary).

Last night I warrantied out my battery at autozone for the 8th time and plugged in the "E" TAC module and fired up the cruiser. Holding the metal gas pedal in my hand and putting some throttle to it, I couldn't get the truck to go into limp mode. I then tried to the "plastic" gas pedal (Which is already installed in my truck) that came with the "K" TAC module with the "E" module. Again, I couldn't get the truck to go into limp mode.

Tonight, I took the first drive to the gas station to throw a couple gallons in her. Never went a single degree over 200 degF and Oil pressure ran at ~35 psi the whole drive. Transmission shifted very smooth <- this is a huge worry for me since I rebuilt the tranny myself and I've never done anything like that.

Time to get a punch list going....

20180918_191422.jpg
 
I finally think I got all the DTC codes taken care of. The oil pressure code (p0522) popped back up, but I found the connector had fallen out of the oil pressure sensor.

Other code I had was p0463 - fuel level sensor. I believe GM does 0-90 ohms, empty to full and toyota does 110-3 ohms (so opposite). This is all speculation at this point from googling around. The yota numbers are in the service manual somewhere.

I know I only have about 7-8 gals in the tank and the Dakota Digital gauge is showing 7/8 full (and getting more full the more I drive). I had the incorrect wire going to the DD VHX module (for gauge cluster). Should pull from connector c13 (combo meter aka "gauges") wire 14, yellow-red. I had wire 11, red and it was not working. I then ran a wire from the terminal on the VHX for the fuel gauge to the GM ECM (green 54). The nice thing about DD is I can correct the fuel gauge as I fill it up and it will tell me the ohms. Pretty slick. I then plan to adjust the fuel tables through hp tuners. I plan to follow this once I get around to it. 98 to 99+ fuel tables to get fuel gauge to read correctly

I'll probably fill up and get the fuel gauge to read properly. Then I can go through the drive cycles to show the EVAP system as ready. I should be able to get my state inspection done and then emissions and then I can get plates back on my vehicle. Once I have the tags, I'll sit at the fuel pump one night and get everything corrected.

The power steering leak should be fixed as well. I have the heidts regulator in there and I thought that was screwing me over, but it looks like a loose connector that I never tightened up is the culprit. I should have power steering back.

I'll probably end up redoing the exhaust (or having the guy at boulder muffler do it). It's warm underneath and I think I need to lower the cats a bit. I also want to be able to flip the drive shaft back around so the double cardan joint is at the tcase like it should be. This will mean moving the cat down and doing some clearancing of the tranny pan. This will be done post emissions.

The 4l80e is a beast and I'm not sure it's the best choice. I need to finish the exhaust so the tail pipe goes out the back, it pretty much terminates at the muffler right now, and I think it's contributing a bit to my exhaust heat problems. This will need to be done before emissions I'm pretty sure.

Other than that, it's nice taking off from the line and actually accelerating faster than some other vehicles. I haven't fully opened her up yet, but she shifts smooth and the power is definitely there. The true test will be vail pass and Eisenhower.
 
I sure am glad to see this. I got a little worried about ya. Your spread sheet helped me when I was gathering parts for my swap.
 
nukegoat said:
Gearing isnt good on it?
Click to expand...

Ah, so how do you know what gearing will work well in a swap? I guess the front and rear differentials plays into that question? I know if I ever do a swap I surely want the thing to drive well bc that’s the whole reason for sh*%%t canning the old boat anchor slow 6 cly.
 
RE: 4l80e. The tranny is wider than its 60 counterpart. I have great clearance below, but I'll have to lower my cats which will come down a bit. Also, the left cat is sitting right by the tranny shifter computer box thingy. I'm worried about it melting, but there are workarounds to that. Pair that with the PITA factor of finding a 2wd tranny or installing a reluctor ring (maybe there has been a new solution to that recently?), the 4l60e just seems easier. Don't get me wrong, the 80 is servicable and workable, but doesn't seem as "easy" as the 60. Take that within the context that I've never done a swap with a 4l60e, but I've looked at a few swaps in person and what's online. I've also never driven a 4l60e swap. I also have 5.29 in the diffs. I don't want to go 80 down the interstate. I also don't want to go 55 up some of the interstate climbs we have here in colorado.

At the end of the day, my dream would be to road this bad boy down to tierra del fuego and I'd need to tow an expo trailer (3 kids). I'm not disappointed in my decision at all.

I'll try to get a video up my undercarriage this weekend to highlight some of the issues.
 
most likely answer, 4.11 as that was stock (I think).

For sure answer, drop the 3rds and count. I bought 5.29 gears, dropped the 3rds and took to a shop to install.

Another less accurate answer, Assuming no other problems, you can cruise on the interstate see if your calculation of overdrive gear, t case gearing, diff gearing and wheel size get you in the ballpark of your speed and rpm.
 
So much information, Awesome job!

I got pretty close to the last page and started noticing the dates weren’t close and got depressed thinking you hadn’t finished yet
 
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