LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Just throw that SC in the trash where it belongs. It's useless on a rig like this and only causes problems. (my opinion, thanks)
I'm at my absolute wits end- truck still overheating despite best efforts (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Have you ruled out the head gasket? I fought with my new 80 overheating for a couple months before I finally accepted the fact that it was the head gasket. I had a continuous flow into overflow, top hose was hot and quite firm while the lower hose was cooler and soft, also, the antifreeze smelled exhausty .
Just my 2 bucks.
Just my 2 bucks.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #506
Out of curiosity: could you bullet-point what's actually been done to the truck since the first post?
IIRC, you covered the hood slots, drove a bit with the S/C belt off, cooked a T-stat in the kitchen, installed the front air dam/guide, there is currently no code that would lead to a timing change, and the intake air temps have remained high. Did I miss anything?
So far:
* covered louvers (no noticeable affect...yet)
* removed SC belt only (need to try opening bypass)
* replaced knock sensor (due to CEL)
* cooked spare tstat
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2013
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 101
- Location
- California - SF Bay Area
- Website
- www.aplusjapaneseautorepair.com
I had similar issues with my 40th edition... Flush... reflushed... reflushed... etc.., radiator, hoses, tstat, still was getting into the 206+ when ambient was high 90s at idle and climbing. So I knew all the above components were good and had fresh 50/50 coolant.
Next step was fan clutch... I did not read all 26 pages of this post but was wondering have you looked into modding the fan clutch? thicker fluid, adjust fan clutch to open at lower temps?
This fixed my problem... I have not hit 200*F since doing this... even fully loaded climbing Tioga pass or up to Tahoe etc... I now Idle at 181*F on 100+ ambient days. Im sure my gas mileage suffers but I could give two S*%ts.
Added benefit is the A/c is frosty and keeps my open container the proper temp
If your fan clutch is not locking up until 205+ F* then you will never fix this. Mine opens/locks at around 190* and I have switched the 6000K Stock viscocity fluid to 20,000K.
Next step was fan clutch... I did not read all 26 pages of this post but was wondering have you looked into modding the fan clutch? thicker fluid, adjust fan clutch to open at lower temps?
This fixed my problem... I have not hit 200*F since doing this... even fully loaded climbing Tioga pass or up to Tahoe etc... I now Idle at 181*F on 100+ ambient days. Im sure my gas mileage suffers but I could give two S*%ts.
Added benefit is the A/c is frosty and keeps my open container the proper temp
If your fan clutch is not locking up until 205+ F* then you will never fix this. Mine opens/locks at around 190* and I have switched the 6000K Stock viscocity fluid to 20,000K.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2013
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 101
- Location
- California - SF Bay Area
- Website
- www.aplusjapaneseautorepair.com
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2013
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 101
- Location
- California - SF Bay Area
- Website
- www.aplusjapaneseautorepair.com
Ok, maybe I missed this too... granted its a stretch...Water pump? efficiency can be affected by cavitation, electrolysis, and maybe you have changed the speed at which it turns with pulleys etc... causing super charger mods to screw up coolant flow in some way at idle by affecting water pump efficiency?
Have you changed it?
Are the fins worn, affecting flow?
If there is cavitation/air bubles forming water wetter would help eliminate bubbles and create more surface area of coolant to block/heat exchange.
Have you changed it?
Are the fins worn, affecting flow?
If there is cavitation/air bubles forming water wetter would help eliminate bubbles and create more surface area of coolant to block/heat exchange.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
I thought I remember you saying that during your engine build you did some performance enhancements to get more HP out of your engine? wondering if these are at play at all? more hp = more heat, just a thought.
Had to ask .. good thing though. If my pump off my.94 will work for you, I have an extra ill send you ...
ppc
M Go Blue
The radiator core looks like it doesn't mount as close to the core support as my 94. The brackets have some curves. Have you compared that measurement to stock? The ringed fan in the SC kit looks to have about 3/4" clearance to the shroud. It might be worth giving that fan or the stock fan a try. I know the ringed fan was deemed inferior but it may perform better with the RD radiator. The stock fan might fit the diameter better but may get to close the the fins.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
FWIW...I just measured my completely stock shroud and fan.
The shroud opening measures ~20-inches
The fan measured ~18-inches
The shroud opening measures ~20-inches
The fan measured ~18-inches
Man this is crazy! Your truck and mine are very similar and i'm not having any overheating issues. I am running stock everything for the most part other than a Cometic MLS head gasket and ARP head studs. Stock radiator, thermostat, fan that came with supercharger......
That to me is the obvious problem! No good air flow would come out of hat. The tip of the fan blades should be close to edge of the shroud. The current setup would have a lot of turbulence in the gap and reduce your air flow and all your stuff under the hood doesn't help wither.
Last edited:
