I'm at my absolute wits end- truck still overheating despite best efforts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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also, your Ron Howard radiator has more fins right? to get the air through these tightly packed fins you have to push it harder = more pressure. prop fans are very low pressure air movers. you might consider looking at high-end tube-axial or vane axial type fan to increase the push on the front of the radiator.
This says fan clutch and shroud?
But you have a serious fan clutch.
Is the shroud diameter and fan diameter matched? some vehicles mount half the shroud to the front of the engine then a flex boot to the other half on the radiator. This allows them to keep the fan clearance really close but still let the engine move. This keeps all the fans work ducted and pulling efficiently instead of just stirring air around in the engine compartment.
I've heard that that fans don't do much over 40mph if the grill is designed efficiently. That's why they put them on clutches to not waist the hp. when not needed.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #44
I hear you but there have been at least half a dozen on mud that have used RD's radiators without the heat effects and according to RD they have now manufactured 50 of the 80 series radiators with two that came back under warranty to weld issues under pressure. If there was an airflow issue it would have been noticed before I got mine. That being said, I'm not eliminating it as a possible culprit, I just think its something else at this time.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #45
Exactly.
My fan/clutch is less than an inch in front of the radiator. The shroud covers the entire fan and there is very little space around it. Everything is really tight as far as the fan is concerned. Some tried to scare me by trying to convince me that the fan will suck into the radiator and destroy it. If it hasn't happened during my 4000 mile trip last month, it wasn't going to happen.
This has always been my understanding.
Many may disagree with this advise but have you tried taking the entire thermostat out?
Back in the day I had a 85 4runner that had your issues and had great results. temp on the dash stayed at 1/4 level.
However if I let it idle more than 15 min. it would start creeping up in the 3/4 range.But all I did was just rev the more to about
2k and it would drop back to the 1/4 level on the temp gauge.
Give it a try in your driveway.
Back in the day I had a 85 4runner that had your issues and had great results. temp on the dash stayed at 1/4 level.
However if I let it idle more than 15 min. it would start creeping up in the 3/4 range.But all I did was just rev the more to about
2k and it would drop back to the 1/4 level on the temp gauge.
Give it a try in your driveway.
when you are running hot next time pull over, shut the engine off and take a temp ir reading of the plenum
you are probably correct. if you think the radiator is good, I would look at water flow as a possibility. you definitely should not have temp increase stopped at signal.
This is simply a screwy suggestion but take some cardboard and build a shroud between the grille/bumper and front of the radiator opening to insure all the incoming air goes through the radiator.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #51
One thing I have not checked is coolant flow when the thermostat is supposed to be open. Does anyone know if, when the radiator cap is off and the thermostat opens, can you see the coolant flow in the top of the radiator like you could on old V8 muscle cars? Can you see the flow? At startup the coolant just sits there.
Sorry Joey not trying to hi-jack your thread but I s*** you not I just posted this last night. I am wondering if it is a bad batch of parts somewhere. Either Tstat or water pump?
So I could use some help with a cooling issue I am having.
Background info. Truck has entirely new cooling system. Koyo brass rad, Aisin water pump, toyota thermostat, Aisin blue hub with 20000cst . All cooling hoses have been done as well as the HG. There maybe 20 to 30 thousand miles on the cooling system and head gasket. Coolant looks dirty almost green. Coolant was last replaced when HG was done at Toyota. Not sure why Toyota would use green?
Truck never had issues with heat prior to being built. Now that it has armor (front arb with warn 12k, rear dual swing out slee and slee sliders) and 37s and drawers it gets hot just driving down the freeway. Never made it into the red but gets just below it.
I am kind of stumped. Why would an 80 with a new cooling system have heat issues? Could it be the thermostat is sticking?
So I could use some help with a cooling issue I am having.
Background info. Truck has entirely new cooling system. Koyo brass rad, Aisin water pump, toyota thermostat, Aisin blue hub with 20000cst . All cooling hoses have been done as well as the HG. There maybe 20 to 30 thousand miles on the cooling system and head gasket. Coolant looks dirty almost green. Coolant was last replaced when HG was done at Toyota. Not sure why Toyota would use green?
Truck never had issues with heat prior to being built. Now that it has armor (front arb with warn 12k, rear dual swing out slee and slee sliders) and 37s and drawers it gets hot just driving down the freeway. Never made it into the red but gets just below it.
I am kind of stumped. Why would an 80 with a new cooling system have heat issues? Could it be the thermostat is sticking?
My 85 did this as well. I drilled two holes in the tstat and it fixed the problem. I may try this and see if this fixes the issue on the 80 since at worst I would just have to buy a new tstat.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #56
PACKET such a blatant hijack!!!!!!
You are soooo lucky you are having the same problem
And yes, I am leaning towards possible defective parts. Visible coolant flow is something I would really like to know to hopefully eliminate water pump. Of course if thermostat isn't opening that would also look like a water pump.
You are soooo lucky you are having the same problem
And yes, I am leaning towards possible defective parts. Visible coolant flow is something I would really like to know to hopefully eliminate water pump. Of course if thermostat isn't opening that would also look like a water pump.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I have a snork here in Phoenix, (116 today) my intake is running around 120 to 130 on days like today. Engine temps stayed just under 200 with combo street and highway.
