ih8mud inspired build

[S4Cruiser]

I think the clutch fork is on the correct side of the TO hub ‘tab’. I wonder about the shop doing it right since you are missing the fork keeper springs...but I don’t know if the H engine uses a different TO hub, bearing flywheel, clutch/pressure plate combo compared to the F and 2F engines.

We need to know what flywheel and pressure plate was used. Those and the TO hub/bearing are all specific to each other, e.g. mixing and matching doesn’t work. It could be as simple (relatively speaking, not based n effort to correct) as the shop using the TO bearing and hub specific to a 3 finger pressure plate with the later style diaphragm style pressure plate.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Also...you should be able to push the piston/bushing in the slave cylinder in/back to the opposite end of the slave housing. Just recently I did this when installing the fork and pushrod in my 67. At first I was like, wtf this pushrod won’t adjust short enough to fit...but I knew it was the correct part. I gently (but with some force) pushed the pushrod into the slave cylinder and it forced the piston back into the housing.

It might take more force if you got your clutch master and slave already bled with fluid.

A good way to check and see if above will work...insert pushrod into slave, mark depth on pushrod. Remove pushrod and using your mark, see how far the end is on the slave housing...should be obvious if there is room for it to get pushed in farther.

 

[KY Longhunter]

I’m no expert but do have Pivot Ball #15 screwed into Bellhousing?

 

[KY Longhunter]

Above picture is for PETROL 2F, below is Diesel.

Throw Out Bearing most likely sized differently ..

.

Land Cruiser Clutch Slave Cylinder - FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60, 70 Series and Diesel Models - Specter Off-Road

Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and to the newest Land Cruiser, Non USA or domestic 40 Series, 60 Series 80 Series or 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in...

www.sor.com

 

[Dagha Boy]

Thanks guys.

I went back on photos for indications of what may be going wrong.

Taken just after removal. The original is different in that it had a "ridge" all the way around instead of "tabs" forming a "groove". Just looking at it the groove seems to call for the fork to go in there.

I was worried that it might be the wrong clutch assembly, because the engineering shop that did the engine returned it without a clutch because they had "lost" it, but then found it and fitted it. Photo taken before it went to the machine shop.

This photo after machine shop just before being mated to the box. Looks like they got it right.

The gearbox just before being mated. Note the fork was already fitted at that point. I suspect that as I tightened the bolts the fork went to maximum travel and then as I kept tightening it pulled the release bearing against the clutch pressure plate, releasing the clutch plate.

There were no retainer springs when I disassembled it and none came with the new part, but I will make sure.

The pivot ball is firmly in place. In fact it was never taken out.

I have an all new hydraulic system, with no fluid as yet. My thinking is if the clutch is already disengaged at this point, it will only worsen the problem if I were to put it in.

It seems that I should be able to undo the bell housing bolts and move the box back to take the pressure off the fork. With a bit of luck the pressure plate will push it back for me if I did bolt it down under pressure. With this model there is no gearbox support it just hangs of the back of the engine and there seems to be about an inch play on the rear drive shaft so I may just get lucky. I only need to go back the diameter of the ball and the fork should come out.

 

[S4Cruiser]

IDK...but the TO hub / bearing you posted in the 'before' pic is definitely different from the one currently installed. You wouldn't need retainer springs with the before style one. If the same clutch fork was used with the current TO hub / bearing then that's where your issue may be.

 

[Dagha Boy]

Thanks S4Cruiser it would seem so. Looks like that box will have to come out.

It is what happens when you buy after market... and to add insult to injury, there was nothing wrong with the old one.

 

[Dagha Boy]

The jury is still out on the throw out assembly. No longer available from Toyota. Well, that is what my local dealership says.

"Bearing 90363-45079 - 535-99 no stock." Hub part discont" I have my doubts about these guys. Even after sending him a photo of the vehicle plate, the frame number and the engine itself he still phoned to ask whether it was a petrol or diesel engine...

The MWFD has offered a solution. "Lets go to the bush for a week and you can look for a 2nd hand one at R40 spares in Nelspruit - and you'll save on the shipping." That is a 3000km round trip with 3 days on the road and 5 game watching. Sounds good to me.

I took a break from the Dagha Boy work and rearranging tools, spares etc and had a go at making some bacon, which required making a smoke generator. Fun was had and the end product was far superior to what we get to buy locally, if a tad over salty. But the smoke was good.

THE COMPONENTS

THE BEAST IN OPERATION

 

[erics]

interested in how the smoker contraption works...

 

[Dagha Boy]

Basic venturi system. The stainless container has a 1 litre capacity. Two 8mm holes drilled near the bottom opposite each other to allow air in for combustion. I drilled a 19mm hole in the tight-fitting lid and forced a 1/2" male fitting in there. I got such a nice tight fit I did not need the fibre washer. Then a reducer to go up to 3/4 pipe up to the T piece. I originally planned to go 3/4" all the way down but could not find a backing nut for that size so had to do the reducer to 1/2".

That's the suction end.

Air comes in @ 1/2" through a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer. (I had to file the inside of the 1/2" end a bit to allow the 1/2" pipe to slide through. The 1/2" pipe goes about 3/4" beyond the T piece. I capped that off and drilled a 6mm hole in the cap. (This I understand accelerates the airflow coming out the 1/2" pipe improving the suction of the venturi created.)

A +/- 12 inch section of 3/4" pipe goes into the other end of T piece - over the capped 1/2" air pipe.

The end of that goes into the smoke chamber - card board box with a small vent 3/4" X 3/4" in my case. The longer the length, the more it allows the smoke to cool down. (I had ambient temp of 25 Celsius which increased to 38.)

The little valve at the air end is to control the air flow. It is amazing how even a tiny adjustment to the valve changes the volume of smoke and rate of burn. (If there is one thing I learn't it is that the little valve is indispensable.) I used my little portable compressor as an air source. Set the pressure down at half a bar and it was waaaay too much. The valve which is commonly used on toilet cistern supply lines here has a 5mm orifice in the ball. I had it open only about 5%. I see on the internet that the thing to use is an aquarium air pump. That gives about 1.5 - 2.5 litres per minute which is more than enough. I think you will still need the control valve to throttle it down. I found that the slightest opening of the valve caused the burn to rumble it burned so fiercely - I turned it down until it was silent and that seemed to give the ideal rate of burn or smolder that I needed. after two hours nothing, not even ash, is left.

I used oak chips about 1/3 of the stainless container - about 300ml - just more than a cup. That gave me a burn time of 2 hrs.

I would love to have a nice smoke chamber with racks, hooks etc, but I don't have room for storage. Cardboard box is fine. I get one out of the local store's recycle and when I'm done it goes back into recycle. Easy.

I just put two pieces of 6mm round bar to support the rack with the meat and cut a "door" in with a box cutter. Made a very fancy wire handle to pull it open. It fits back nice and tight.

And that is all there is to it. I think with the coolness of the smoke it will be quite possible to even do stuff like fish and cheese. But first I must get an aquarium pump.

 

[Dagha Boy]

Every screw, every rubber, every grommet replaced is progress. Right? Then some progress is being made.

I tackled the throw out bearing hub problem by removing the rear drive shaft, then most of the bell housing bolts and replacing them with 100mm long bolts. Then I eased off on the remaining retaining bolts and lo and behold the back pressure from the clutch assembly immediately pushed the transmission assembly back along the long bolts for about an inch.

Then I pulled back on it and slid it back along the bolts as far as I could get it to go.

The relief of the pressure on the fork allowed me to lever it off the swivel ball and away from the bearing hub. Once that was done the whole hub/bearing assembly slid back the remaining 20 -25mm up against the gearbox - into the fully released position it could not get into before.

I then slid the fork back into position on the swivel ball but with the fork now between the lugs and the bearing. In this position it moved the assembly smoothly to and fro. (I could find no holes or grooves for retaining clips on the fork.)

Unfortunately the transmission could not move far enough back to get the hub assembly out.

I remain uncomfortable with the clutch release fork pushing against the bearing, but decided to bolt it all up again to check the fit in that position.

With all the bolts back in place the clutch remains disengaged (small victory) but it appears that even though the hub is now all the way back against the transmission, the bearing is still in contact with the 3 release forks on the clutch assembly. That cannot be good as in that position the bearing must keep running. It is impossible to tell at this point but there may actually be quite significant pressure being exerted at the contact points.

I then checked the slave cylinder assembly and that fit perfectly whereas it was impossible to insert before.

The whole damn thing is going to have to come off, which means I will have to take it somewhere to do that as I do not have sufficient space in my "workshop."

"You win some, you lose some."

The rest of the week's work time was taken up installing the new door locks, door handles etc. These are aftermarket parts made in Taiwan and proved not to be plug and play. It took a great deal of assembling and disassembling and bending, adjusting, filing and polishing etc to get them to work smoothly and properly. The material they are made from seems to be good, but so many of the angles on the levers are wrong and surfaces that move over each other are not smoothly finished. But in the end I got everything to fit properly and operate smoothly. Good as new!

 

[Dagha Boy]

The devil is in the detail they say.

I am now at that very nice stage where I'm dealing with the last details, like weatherstripping. But, this build has been very slow and I find myself working with stuff I bought literally years ago and now have some doubts about.

I bought a set of weather stripping for the front doors years ago and now have to fit it. I cannot remember who I bought it from, could have been CCOT or City Racer. If I am not mistaken they came as a pair with a free tube of 3M black adhesive.

The profile looks like this...

The top corners came precut and glued to form right angles...

It seems to me that these are CityRacer weatherstrips but I can't tell for sure from his website as I cannot see the profile clearly and the corners on the website photos seem to be moulded pieces. I'm thinking the corner difference maybe that mine are MK1s and the moulded corners came later?

I am very nervous about screwing this up. given where I am I can't just order another set and try again.

Now for my questions:

1. Does the glue go on the bottom of the profile, as per photo 2 above, only?
2. Do I follow the outer edge of the door as closely as possible or along the profile shape further in?

Any help/comments/tips will be much appreciated.

 

[Dagha Boy]

Weatherstrips on hold for a while, but a major milestone achieved yesterday.

When I stuck a battery in Dagha Boy about a year ago, I had a dead short, loud bang and blew out a piece of the circuit board on the back of my instrument cluster. I left it right there and have been avoiding the problem ever since.

I decided to confront it yesterday and started looking for the problem in the harness. after several hours I decided that the only way to proceed would be to strip the harness out of the vehicle, remove all the wrapping and search with everything exposed.

Just at that point a friend arrived and we poked around a bit more. He started fiddling around with the cluster. Obvious starting point given what happened a year ago I wonder why I didn't start there.

Five minutes and he pointed out that the Ammeter terminals seemed not to be insulated from the cluster casing. We opened it up and found the problem.

When I refurbed it, I reassembled it all very nicely, first putting in the black plastic spacers on the terminals, and then the white insulating washers directly on top of those, then slipped it into position on the casing. Next the little copper washers and then the nuts.

IDJIT. That means zero insulation of course. The white insulator washers go on the outside of the casing to keep the copper washer off the casing...

Reassembled and fitted we then proceeded to test the rest.

Only two problems emerged. The indicator flasher unit is a bit faulty (works intermittently) and needs to be opened up and cleaned. Today's job. Second problem was a bad earth on the starter relay due to excessive paint on its bracket. Needs to be detached, and proper earthing done. Another job for today.

Other than that everything worked perfectly, even the washer pump!

I was too embarrassed to take photos but will do so today just in case it helps some other idjit down the line to avoid this simple but easily made mistake.

I'm stoked the harness I nearly threw away is perfect but for my own stupidity. That really says something for Toyota.

 

[Martyt]

Good lesson there that is apt for other applications. Glad you are working through it!

 

[Dagha Boy]

Getting the little things done.

I've been missing a clip to hold a door lock in place - the one that slides in on the inside and have been unable to find a correct sized one anywhere. Eventually decided to get into the shipping container that is filled with my other HJ45 and all manner of bits and pieces. The very first box I opened did not contain a clip, but HALLELUJAH, it contained the clutch throw out bearing and hub that I was convinced I had thrown away years ago!!! I would have sworn on a stack of bibles that it had gone in the recycle!

It has no tabs on it and is about 15mm shorter than the new one I installed. There are also no holes for retaining clips for the fork and it is obvious that the fork just slips into the groove and can go nowhere once seated. PROBLEM SOLVED.

A few boxes later and I had the lock mechanism clip in hand as well. Mission accomplished.

 

[Dagha Boy]

Little things. Little things. All the little things.

The flasher unit has been a problem. I just couldn't get it to work reliably. It tested fine every time. When testing it out of the vehicle I used an old sealed beam as load and the little guy worked perfectly. Back into the harness and it would work a while and then not at all except with a tap and then it would cycle few times and stop working. In and out, in and out ad nauseum but still no luck.

Then a new problem arises. With the marker light on, both the indicator and marker light start flashing but weakly... What now?

Bad ground, right? But it has a ground straight off the harness so it can only be inside the lamp assembly. Opened it up and lo and behold, the ground wire I thought was a ground is actually connected to a globe behind the metal reflector. Duh!

The ground on this made-in-Taiwan marvel is comprised of a long self tapper which touches the back of the metal reflector holding the globes. And then of course sometimes it doesn't touch... like when it is bumped or vibrates... the OE lamp has a tab bent up and the reflector attaches by means of a screw. Proper ground that stays grounded.

I solved the problem by drilling a 3mm hole in the reflector and pop riveting a ground wire to that and joined the front and back indicator globe wires together.

And then the flasher unit problem solved itself. Mr Taiwan has a 10w indicator globe up front and a 5w in back instead of 21w and 10w as in the OE housing. Reason is the reflector is too shallow to take a 21w. That creates a situation where the load on the flasher unit is insufficient for it to work properly. I replaced the 5w with a 10w and tried it. Apparently that causes just enough draw for the flasher unit to work consistently.

I reattached the lamp. Tested again and all is well...

All nicely secured and sealed up.

Only thing is, these lamps are so crappy I will have to replace them with OEM stuff. Cost be damned.

 

[Dagha Boy]

I removed the drive shafts in preparation of removing the transmission to install the correct throw out bearing and hub.

The OCD is running high and hard.

I took one look at the original retaining bolts I had cleaned and re-used and called Abie, my man at Toyota.

He came through for me...

Nosebleed price but there is no other option. 11mm. No more, no less. Only from Mr T.

 

[Dagha Boy]

Another electrical problem that emerged was intermittent horn. That traced to the s shaped ground wire inside the steering shaft rag joint. I had coated all of that so well that there was just no way I could get a proper earth going again without pulling it all out again.. (should have thought of that when I had it out and before reassembly.)

Plan B. Made up a little bridging strap on the outside. Problem solved.

 

[Dagha Boy]

Another little thing that had to be done, was the sun visors. The two brackets had been refurbed separately - one was original and the other acquired later. When putting them on it was the first time I had seen them together. They are markedly different. One arm is much longer than the other.

SHORT ARM.

LONG (DROPPED) ARM.

Oops. wonder when that changed. And now I don't know which one was original to this vehicle. Eyes open for a matching one somewhere.

 

[Dagha Boy]

THE DENTIST IS IN.

This past week Dagha Boy has been fighting me every step of the way. One step forward and three steps back and on my ass.

One of the last electrical things to wrap up was making new links between the glow plugs and then connecting it into the harness. So I spent an afternoon making them and connected them up. Then I moved on to installing the accelerator cable. That fought me and after more than an hour, while extricating myself from under the dash, I pressed my shoulder against the dash and got burnt. It was the resistor on the dash which indicates when the glow plugs are glowing. I quickly disconnected the wiring. Closer inspection showed that the ignition switch was so worn that the glow plugs stayed on permanently.

(When I got the Dagha Boy, the glow plugs did not go through the ignition switch but were wired to a push button switch on the dashboard. When I stripped and repaired the wiring harness, I found the glow plug circuit to be totally burnt out and replaced the wires. That should have warned me.)

Ordered a new switch from Toyota and installed it. Problem solved, BUT...

Glow plugs are not meant to stay on for that length of time and were probably burnt out. No big deal. That is until I tried to get them out. They screwed out easy enough to the end of the thread, but would not come out of the hole as they had swollen up from the heat.
I tried everything I could to pull them out but got nowhere. I searched the internet. No advice beyond taking the head off, or trying to blow them out with compression. (I had tried that already and it made no difference.) Apparently the military just loosen them and then rev the hell out of the engine till they pop out. I was not prepared to do that.

I resigned myself to taking the head off. Then this morning I got clever and dreamed up a puller and decided to give it a try. It took about half an hour to make the gadget out of some 25mm scrap angle iron, an 8mm bolt and nut and a tyre lever.

The sucker worked like a dream. Under 15 secs each to remove the burnt and mushroomed glow plugs.

THE OFFENDING SWITCH AND REPLACEMENT.

THE GADGET ENGAGED ON THE NO1 GLOW PLUG.

SIDE VIEW

FRONT VIEW.

This should work on the H and B engines. Hopefully this helps somebody in future. I'm going to clean mine up and yellow chromate it to go in the tool kit.