Ignition switch repair (1 Viewer)

[red66toy]

Hey all! So I finally found the last piece of the original switch puzzle for my 65 FJ40. Been looking for a period correct ignition switch for a while! This one has one caveat though… key won’t turn the switch! It’s the correct switch and key (matching codes) so I think the old switch needs some cleaning and lubrication. I was curious if anyone has taken one of these apart before? Any ideas what that tiny screw is on the side? Thinking it could release the cylinder but don’t want to break anything. Thanks for any help!
Cheers.

 

[Bear]

That there tiny screw is the fubar screw--remove it and all the #$%& teeny springs and gizmos inside go flying everywhere--some are said to wind up in the same universe as the lost socks from your dryer. And the screw threads will be some antique version of the JIS, with a pitch and diameter unknown to even current Japanese citizens ! Whynot make a video of you uncorking it--for the entertainment of the rest of us afraid to touch the darn thing !

 

[red66toy]

That there tiny screw is the fubar screw--remove it and all the #$%& teeny springs and gizmos inside go flying everywhere--some are said to wind up in the same universe as the lost socks from your dryer. And the screw threads will be some antique version of the JIS, with a pitch and diameter unknown to even current Japanese citizens ! Whynot make a video of you uncorking it--for the entertainment of the rest of us afraid to touch the darn thing !

With a description like that now I HAVE to temp fate. hahaha I'll shoot a video tomorrow.

 

[middlecalf]

And from the looks of that screw it looks like someone already tempted fate, therefore key no longer works, and therefore put it up for sale.

 

[tahoe40/45]

Someone had a thread or it was part of a thread about taking these apart.

 

[red66toy]

Someone had a thread or it was part of a thread about taking these apart.

Thanks. I tried hunting but I'll look around more.

 

[tahoe40/45]

I just tried looking too, if i find it ill post it.

 

[tahoe40/45]

Here is a inside look, but don't think its the one im looking for. Ignition Switch Help - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ignition-switch-help.469149/

 

[red66toy]

Here is a inside look, but don't think its the one im looking for. Ignition Switch Help - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ignition-switch-help.469149/

Thanks! That was super helpful.

 

[red66toy]

And from the looks of that screw it looks like someone already tempted fate, therefore key no longer works, and therefore put it up for sale.

Yeah that is my guess as well. I was confident I could figure it out as it had the correct key at least. We will see how that goes. Hahaha As part of the sale I also got this odd switch. Looks to be about the same period but just has two terminals.

 

[ar2stp48]

Taking the cylinder plug out would be my last resort choice. Post 6 in the link given shows the springs and such you will deal with. Not like a normal lock where the springs stay in upper housing (bible) and held in place with plug follower
Hold vertical with keyway down and spray with a cleaner
Have a locksmith or hobbiest pick the lock to verify it will turn These are not difficult to pick It is possible someone did take the core out and put it back together with pins/wafers in wrong order

 

[Archie 1962 FJ25]

Swap the barrels and that way you can have an early switch with correct round TEQ keys.

 

[red66toy]

Swap the barrels and that way you can have an early switch with correct round TEQ keys.

 

[red66toy]

Swapped the cylinders… yeah that brass screw was scary but actually came out. The other cylinder only rotated to the right and not the left as well, unlike the OG ignition switch barrel which will rotate both ways. So I got the key to work in the original one but only sometimes which makes me think it’s dirty or maybe a little burr somewhere? I’m going to hunt for a old school locksmith that can hopefully work some magic.

 

[ar2stp48]

Good job

One hole of the right lock core is missing the spring Was there one in that hole on disassembly? You can fully disassemble the lock to clean and find the problem

Very carefully dump the content of each hole of the core Empty--- one at a time ---and keep the parts in exact order they come out Number your groups for 1 to 5 You will have spring and brass pin or wafer from each hole; if a wafer, note direction of any flat on top edge. When empty you can clean core Inspect the pins for wear or rough spots

Assembly is putting everything back correctly

If it is a pin lock, measure the pins for dia and lengths (.001) I have pins for many locks but I do normally avoid auto locks If any pis are overly worn or rough, I will try to find a replacement No charge

I am a safe tech who and reluctant locksmith

 

[Archie 1962 FJ25]

View attachment 2801170Swapped the cylinders… yeah that brass screw was scary but actually came out. The other cylinder only rotated to the right and not the left as well, unlike the OG ignition switch barrel which will rotate both ways. So I got the key to work in the original one but only sometimes which makes me think it’s dirty or maybe a little burr somewhere? I’m going to hunt for a old school locksmith that can hopefully work some magic.

Unless it is missing any pins or springs in the culprit barrel, try old faithful WD-40 spray & walk away trick. Leave it alone for couple of days and then see if you still need a locksmith.

 

[HelloKitty65]

 

[red66toy]

Hey all, so to updated, thank you for all the tips! I did try the leave it overnight trick @Archie 1962 FJ25 .... on accident. hahaha. Still didn't work better the next day. Thanks again @ar2stp48 for the awesome advice. I had actually take the lock cylinder to a locksmith not far away from me that has been in business for 70 years so hoping they can sort it out. Normally I wouldn't trust someone else to work on it but they seemed legit and completely undaunted by what I was asking for.

One interesting thing about the cylinder in the first barrel (missing spring in the photo) had small ball bearing and a spring... which I thought was normal. It gave the key a very solid engagement and harder to pull out. But @ar2stp48 pointed out that was highly unusual so maybe that is the issue? The other barrel has some sort of solid pin in the first barrel but maybe that is not functional. The mystery deepens.

I'll keep this updated, should have it back in a day or two. *fingers crossed*

 

[1969FJ]

SOR sells the whole switch.

FJ40 (40 Series) Cylinders Locks and Keys - Specter Off-Road

Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and FJ40 to FJ45 BJ40 FJ55 FJ60 BJ60 FJ62 FJ70 BJ70 FJ80 and 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in restoration parts for both...

www.sor.com

 

[red66toy]

They fixed it! Woot woot. You have to love old school shops that still know what the heck they are doing. The place I used was Broadway Locksmith here in Seattle. The had to put all new pins and springs in. One pin was missing and the rest were in bad shape, along with some bent springs apparently. Cost me $71 for the job... a bargain for all that work. Works nice and smooth now. But for anyone else that goes to take one of these switches apart, Its not hard.... but make sure you open it in carefully and block all 5 springs from shooting off into oblivion !