If my chain guides aren't broken... (1 Viewer)

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My spring time oil change is coming up here so I'll get that done sooner rather than later with a Toyota filter. Not 100% sure about a dry start carrying on for that long but we'll soon find out.

Wow was that insightful. 4.3 PSI at warm idle is within spec. Huh. My truck warm idles right around 23-25.

My motor puts out 70 at 3000... kinda strange how it's low at idle but still produces excellent pressure at RPM. Could be the 5w30 at idle just wasnt/isnt enough viscosity.

How many miles on your motor? OE or remanned? what oil? what gauge? (I assume its an in cab gauge not a test gauge?) ...dont mean to interrogate you, just gathering information for my empty brain matter :cheers:
 
My spring time oil change is coming up here so I'll get that done sooner rather than later with a Toyota filter. Not 100% sure about a dry start carrying on for that long but we'll soon find out.



My motor puts out 70 at 3000... kinda strange how it's low at idle but still produces excellent pressure at RPM. Could be the 5w30 at idle just wasnt/isnt enough viscosity.

How many miles on your motor? OE or remanned? what oil? what gauge? (I assume its an in cab gauge not a test gauge?) ...dont mean to interrogate you, just gathering information for my empty brain matter :cheers:

I'd have to look back in the notes on mileage. It was rebuilt back in 2013. It was bored 0.50 mm over, new forged pistons, cam, crank bearings with stainless steel valves from engnbldr.com

I've got an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge mounted on the dashpad along with a slew of other mechanical gauges.
 
I'd have to look back in the notes on mileage. It was rebuilt back in 2013. It was bored 0.50 mm over, new forged pistons, cam, crank bearings with stainless steel valves from engnbldr.com

I've got an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge mounted on the dashpad along with a slew of other mechanical gauges.

Should be around 250K when I tore it apart (had never been open). It was running fine, but it did have significant piston slap when starting up cold, for a few minutes. You'll find my bore gauge measurements in that small black binder, I think. The block was still in spec but they were slightly ovaled, common.

When I got that truck, it had really bad chain clatter when starting up. I ran 2 passes of oil changes with one quart of MMO, after 500 miles the first time the oil was jet black, so lots of sludge from not being driven. Every seal leaked. Gradually replaced them all, some DD duty, and it really came back.
 
Did you grind the crank? Did it need a line hone? Rods resized? Or just re/re stock bearings and cut the bores?
 
Got after it right away and did an oil change when I got home... toyota D1 filter and 10w40. Will keep you guys posted on if that changes anything.
 
I don’t know much about 22re engines. Is the chain tensioner taking up chain slack with oil pressure and a spring? Or does it have the ratcheting style tensioner that actually compensates for excessively loose / worn chain?
 
Did you grind the crank? Did it need a line hone? Rods resized? Or just re/re stock bearings and cut the bores?

Nope (plastigauge was good), nope (they checked it), nope, yup.
 
It sounds like the rocker assembly is rattling. I would check all the springs to make sure the followers are not flopping around. Then make sure enough oil is making it evenly on the cam.
 

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