If it isn't leaking, it might be empty...

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Joined
Dec 28, 2025
Threads
7
Messages
42
Location
Ecuador
I’ve recently joined the ranks of FJ40 ownership with a South American '76 (2F, H41, the works). It’s a dream to drive, but it seems to be marking its territory everywhere it goes.

As a new owner, I’m trying to find the line between good maintenance and "insanity." I’ve heard the jokes...if there’s no oil under it, there’s no oil in it. But where do you all actually draw the line?

I’m trying to separate the 'must-fixes' from the 'it’s just a Toyota' drip. In your experience, which leaks actually stay fixed after you replace the seal, and which ones are just the 2F’s way of rust-proofing the chassis?

I’m also curious about parts. When I do dive in, which gaskets are actually worth buying? I’ve heard mixed reviews on some of the modern aftermarket stuff. Are there specific brands or materials (cork vs. rubber vs. paper) that you swear by, and which ones should I avoid like the plague?

Is a bone-dry FJ40 a myth, or is it a pursuit that leads only to madness?
 
These are the worst I have. When I purchased it, the front diff was almost empty.

WhatsApp Image 2026-01-26 at 10.31.47.webp


WhatsApp Image 2026-01-26 at 10.32.08.webp


WhatsApp Image 2026-01-26 at 10.32.33.webp
 
Mostly Chinese junk. But, I can order from Amazon and other US companies. Funny thing though, some block Ecuadorian IP addresses.
Use a VPN and order from partsouq/amayama.

No such thing as a ‘Toyota drip’ or marking its spot, only lack of maintenance/poor workmanship.
 
I get a case of OCD when it comes to leaks on my cruiser, other vehicles not quite as much.

I’ve pulled 2 engines out of cruisers just to reseal them and get rid of the leaks. 2F out of an FJ55 and a 350 out of a 40.

I was younger and dumber, but these are pretty simple to pull in a couple hours in reality. I only did this because there were a few leaks that would have a been a pain to do in the cruiser. Once I pulled them I did all the seals since it was so easy to reach. Nice and leak free after.

Use all the OEM seals you can and order from some of the vendors on here, they will get you all setup.
 
I recommend the Eco-seal from Marlin Crawler for the front axle. I include them in my knuckle overhaul kits.

 
That park brake is often an issue, pull the drum, do the seal and fill the splines inside the drum with silicone. Then run an equaliser tube between the gearbox and transfer fill plugs. Take the breather off the transfer case and deal to the spring loaded bit inside, then you won't build pressure as transfer warms up which pushes oil out the easiest path. Also, your front driveshaft universals look seriously bodged, shouldn't need metal straps across yoke ends. Use genuine diff seals or good Australian replacements, don't just stick a bearing seal in there.
 
interesting ujoint cap retainers

Good eyes. That's some real hack right there. It probably could go in the Wall of Shame thread.
 
Reminds me of part of the traditional wedding vows: til death do you part!😱

As for the silicone nose cone, multiply that by 2 and thats what the one on Project Reset looked like!🤦🏻

And the dent on the driveshaft: :nuclear:

I doubt those bolts for the driveshaft have shoulders to properly fill the holes.
 
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...your front driveshaft universals look seriously bodged, shouldn't need metal straps across yoke ends...
Unfortunately, that is the kind of work sometimes done here. Parts are not always readily available and to get back on the road, things like this get done.

Thank you for bringing to my attention. I hadn't caught that yet. I am trying to fix things like this so that it can be a safe and reliable daily driver. It will be added to the list.
 
I've placed 2 ads on Facebook Marketplace looking for replacement driveshafts, as well as asked my local mechanic to try and find them. I am fortunate to have found a mechanic that specializes on classic cars and has worked on many FJ40s.
 
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