Have spotted a puddle of red fluid on the front of the engine block. See below, wondering what the source could be so I can start gameplanning repair. First two images. Second image is zoomed in.
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Looks like the first one is a coolant leak from the thermostat housing gasket, second one looks like valve cover gaskets. I'm new to the 100 series though so someone might want to back me up on this.
Mileage?
Looks like the first one is a coolant leak from the thermostat housing gasket, second one looks like valve cover gaskets. I'm new to the 100 series though so someone might want to back me up on this.
Mileage?
The coolant leak appears to be coming from the thermostat housing. Pull the intake tube off too get a closer look.
As for the oil leak, it appears to be a very slight leak of the valve cover gasket.
PCValve by your oil fill tube is leaking- so if thats clogged and blowing by its gasket, that could create some other issues.
Are you doing the repair?
Replace PCV, clean area, retorque valve covers. See if it still leaks.
Find where on thermostat housing its leaking- most likely have to completely remove it: good time to replace thermostat, O rings, and reseal with correct Fipg ($$$) 1282B.
It does look like water inlet leak. These leaks are often from wrong assembled procedure during timing belt job.
Likely as @abuck99 said your PCV valve needs replacing. You also have a grommet that holds PCV valve in place, which likely needs replacing.
Torque head cover bolts to 53in-lbf (that is inch-lb, not pounds). The head cover bolts may be corroded in and need a little more than spec torque to get moving. Hopefully they're not frozen and snap. I'd pull coils/spark plugs first and look into spark plugs tubes for oil leak. If tube seal(s) leaking oil, you'll need to pull covers to reseal them.
I'd use a 1/4" torque wrench*** I'm just going to re-torque the Valve cover screws. about 1/2 of them easily turned 1/2-1 full turn. The other half didn't, maybe corroded in place but didn't want to snap them so didn't really test too hard.
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Take off the passenger side timing belt cover and give it a good inspection. Turn the crankshaft clockwise (when standing in front of vehicle) with a 22mm socket.
If you've exhausted search for records form carfax and Toyota owners portal.
You can look at timing belt by pulling RH (PS) upper belt cover. But belts really hold up very well. It would have to be really high mi. to see much wear. Of more concern than belt are the pulleys and water pump. Those going bad take out the belt. Coolant at weep hole at bottom under harmonic balance can indicate water pump gone bad. But pulleys are near impossible to determine health, unless very noisy.
T-belt tensioner can be pulled and inspected easily. But that may or may not have been replaced with T-belt.
Clues belt has been done are:
Bottom line if you don't know, do the job!
- Clips holding wires on LH (DS) upper belt cover. Shop break them very often.
- Marks on harmonic belt pulley groves. They get made from chain wrench use to hold it.
- Some times when belt job done. Shop put FIPG on large O-ring of water inlet. Bad idea, as this leads to leaks. Sometimes they lube with grease, seems to work, but not FSM procedure. Factory install would not have anything on it.
- Looking at harmonic bolt and others for wrench marks.
Did you locate a TB service sticker somewhere in the engine bay, radiator top, air intake?
View attachment 1857290
Yes!There's a kind of sketchy carfax report for my truck...for instance, it goes "dark" for about 8 years. Then there's the Toyota service report that only shows one service and it's from this year for ignition lock cylinder housing replacement. Is there a way to find older Toyota records? Doubtful this is the only service at Toyota in 21 years. Otherwise, I'll do the checks you mentioned.
Will I need to drain the system at that repair, or just top up after? If full drain