I used the search, I swear, no luck though... pulling, cutting, or stretching metal fenders to make a custom widebody?

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I have given the interwebs my best search, and no luck.

I want widebody fenders, not stick on silly plastics garishes.

The fenders are metal, so why not work the metal? If you can make an entire new vehicle with metal shaping tools, why not increase a fender's overall extension?

Just cutting it up and away seems counterproductive, as now you have less flying detritus control, and a sharp edge. So, why not cut and flare up to the desired clearance, but still have coverage over tire?
 
I have given the interwebs my best search, and no luck.

I want widebody fenders, not stick on silly plastics garishes.

The fenders are metal, so why not work the metal? If you can make an entire new vehicle with metal shaping tools, why not increase a fender's overall extension?

Just cutting it up and away seems counterproductive, as now you have less flying detritus control, and a sharp edge. So, why not cut and flare up to the desired clearance, but still have coverage over tire?
I think simply because it's comparatively hard to cut, weld, shape, prep, prime, paint, clear, blend.

Given an average skill set you're going to end up with better results with bolt on flares. If you're a welding craftsman and a body/paint guy then sure, do a crazy custom flare in all metal. We'd love to see it!
 
I think simply because it's comparatively hard to cut, weld, shape, prep, prime, paint, clear, blend.

Given an average skill set you're going to end up with better results with bolt on flares. If you're a welding craftsman and a body/paint guy then sure, do a crazy custom flare in all metal. We'd love to see it!
Like this, this is the idea! So cut up and away for clearance, then curved flat face like oem profile, and new curved filler. Then like you said, some body work!

 
Like this, this is the idea! So cut up and away for clearance, then curved flat face like oem profile, and new curved filler. Then like you said, some body work!


Yup, that's sweet. And very difficult to do well. That job in the video is probably a $2k-4k job after paint. Maybe more for 4 wheels.

Plastic fender flares are <$500.

I think the simple answer to your "why?" question is:

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Rolling fenders is a common job when lowering your car to get clearance. I'd guess it's a kind of "sweet spot" between full custom fenders and all the work described above and plastic fenders.

Wouldn't that be an alternative?

Edit: Just thinking... for my Ford E350 some vendors offer front fender replacements in fiberglass... especially to swap the front design from older vans like my 2006 to the updated version.
 
My LC100 is about the same size as my T100. And there are companies that make (made) "Baja" kits & widebody kits for the T100 and Tundra. You may look at those to see if they could be made to fit. Other than that, no thread here is going to teach you to cut/stretch sheet metal well - that takes actual experience and a lot of it to do well.
 
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My LC100 is about the same size as my T100. And there are companies that make (made) "Baja" kits & widebody kits for the T100 and Tundra. You may look at those to see if they could be made to fit. Other than that, no thread here is going to teach you to cut/stretch sheet metal well - that takes actual experience and a lot of it to do well.
I like trying new stuff.......learned welding that way, and light mechanics, and elecrical, and woodworking, etc. Figured if I was willing to cut my fender, and then add in a flat return, why not flare it out some more? If I am already in for bodywork and paint, why not make it a shape I had in mind.

The video above is extreme, but doesn't look too hard, just some seat time!

My LC100 is about the same size as my T100. And there are companies that make (made) "Baja" kits & widebody kits for the T100 and Tundra. You may look at those to see if they could be made to fit. Other than that, no thread here is going to teach you to cut/stretch sheet metal well - that takes actual experience and a lot of it to do well.
I saw a video of that, but the fitment of the fender looked awful, and more flare than I had in mind. I am just looking to do something subtle, like maybe an inch wider!
 
Unpopular opinion and don’t mean to hijack your thread, but the search feature is tough to use. I’ve got about 3 questions to ask but don’t know if they’ve been answered because searching through 15 years of content is tough. I will add that a roll out of the fenders, just a skoush, in the rear would look really great.
 
I just put “ih8mud 100” followed by my question in my search engine. Much better results than the search function on here imo.
Unpopular opinion and don’t mean to hijack your thread, but the search feature is tough to use. I’ve got about 3 questions to ask but don’t know if they’ve been answered because searching through 15 years of content is tough. I will add that a roll out of the fenders, just a skoush, in the rear would look really great.
 
I like trying new stuff.......learned welding that way, and light mechanics, and elecrical, and woodworking, etc. Figured if I was willing to cut my fender, and then add in a flat return, why not flare it out some more? If I am already in for bodywork and paint, why not make it a shape I had in mind.
If it was me, I would go to a wrecking yard and buy a junk fender or 2 to practice on. I learned to weld the same way when I couldn't find things that I wanted for trucks, but I never "go live" until I am satisfied that I can get it right.
 
The metal flares from the video posted look fantastic, and that guy is an artist.

Imo, that's a whole TON of work for something that would effectively become a greater body damage liability on a trail and get bashed in to trees frequently.

Unless you're not wheeling, in which case that's a TON of work for aesthetics alone.
 
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Wide body it to allow bigger/wider tires to fit when fully compressed in an off road obstacle? I think the main key factor why most people prefer cut over time-consuming metal shaping process like using the english wheel is cost vs. objective. Most folks here use the cruiser for outdoor which has a greater chance of getting scratched/banged up/dented and damaged. So for the price of getting a metal artisan to reshape an oem fender (paint job not included yet) and it likely getting damaged in the trails is for me personally would avoid as well, too much money lol. But if the cruiser is for touring use and mostly highway miles, why not.
 
Rolling fenders is a common job when lowering your car to get clearance. I'd guess it's a kind of "sweet spot" between full custom fenders and all the work described above and plastic fenders.

Wouldn't that be an alternative?

Edit: Just thinking... for my Ford E350 some vendors offer front fender replacements in fiberglass... especially to swap the front design from older vans like my 2006 to the updated version.

There's a big difference between rolling fenders to get 0.5" of extra space on the fender (like what you see in the sports car, ricer, racecar scene) and the 2-4" of clearance people are looking for with the off road fenders.

The steel body panels only give so much before paint just flakes right off.

Not to mention the 100 series fender profile isn't circular, so the typical fender rolling techniques I've seen would be real tough to execute cleanly.
 
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If it was me, I would go to a wrecking yard and buy a junk fender or 2 to practice on. I learned to weld the same way when I couldn't find things that I wanted for trucks, but I never "go live" until I am satisfied that I can get it right.
good idea. I was thinking of trying to get some 100 fenders from a yard

There's a big difference between rolling fenders to get 0.5" of extra space on the fender (like what you see in the sports car, ricer, racecar scene) and the 2-4" of clearance people are looking for with the off road fenders.

The steel body panels only give so much before paint just flakes right off.

Not to mention the 100 series fender profile isn't circular, so the typical fender rolling techniques I've seen would be real tough to execute cleanly.
I am fine with bodywork and paint, expect it, no problem. doing an aggressive roll / stretch might get me where I want to be.

Wide body it to allow bigger/wider tires to fit when fully compressed in an off road obstacle? I think the main key factor why most people prefer cut over time-consuming metal shaping process like using the english wheel is cost vs. objective. Most folks here use the cruiser for outdoor which has a greater chance of getting scratched/banged up/dented and damaged. So for the price of getting a metal artisan to reshape an oem fender (paint job not included yet) and it likely getting damaged in the trails is for me personally would avoid as well, too much money lol. But if the cruiser is for touring use and mostly highway miles, why not.
my wheels are only 33", and getting a different wheel might be a better plan for 35". My current offset / wheel has it kiss the fender in M, and doing fast dirt roads, and hitting dipps, makes an angry enough noise to be an eventual issue. Currently I am doing the dynamic concussive fender adjustment method of wheel clearance!....But, I want the 35"

The metal flares from the video posted look fantastic, and that guy is an artist.

Imo, that's a whole TON of work for something that would effectively become a greater body damage liability on a trail and get bashed in to trees frequently.

Unless you're not wheeling, in which case that's a TON of work for aesthetics alone.
I would love to have 1.5" up and flared out a bit, that's the idea
 
What look are you going for? This but a little higher and in steel? To me, most fender flares I see for the 100 give it a double-flare look... which I'm not fond of. you could go to a large flare... like over the size of the original "flare" and that would be more like the Arctic truck look.

for JDM Land cruiser Lexus LX470 arch fender flares 100 series ...
 
What look are you going for? This but a little higher and in steel? To me, most fender flares I see for the 100 give it a double-flare look... which I'm not fond of. you could go to a large flare... like over the size of the original "flare" and that would be more like the Arctic truck look.

for JDM Land cruiser Lexus LX470 arch fender flares 100 series ...
going to factory body lines, but just pulling out and up on the front fenders, as the rear tucks just fine
 
Just a thought, you can also pull the fenders out 1-1.5" from the midline and make the corrections between the fender and hood. The gap that would happen between the fender and door is not unusual for rally/sports cars.
 
Just a thought, you can also pull the fenders out 1-1.5" from the midline and make the corrections between the fender and hood. The gap that would happen between the fender and door is not unusual for rally/sports cars.
so, just pull the centre, and have an uneven hood gap?
 
If you completely unbolted the front fenders and then pull them out horizontally 1"..... there would be a 1" gap between the OE fenders and the hood (and all the other three sides). But it would match the rear flares. It is easier to fit in gaps on the inside (fender to hood) than the outside. To me, there is a lot of compound curvatures to reproduce the front "flare" and make it look stock.

I guess what I'm saying... craftsmanship is more forgiving on the inner part of the fender than the outer portion.
 
If you're just wanting to clear 35s with no rub on compression, you can trim a tiny amount of the lower fender by the pinch weld, and adjust your bump stops accordingly. I wheel mine pretty hard (for the platform) and this was a perfect solution. And it cost me $0. This is on my 35x12.50s with RW wheels and 2" spacers.

 

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