I took the plunge.. ('94 HDJ80) (3 Viewers)

[OGBeno]

@OGBeno
How did you determine the no heat? Mine looks similar.
Does that mean we avoid the PHH to the rear thats most common a problem?

This is a 1HD-T diesel engine, completely different cooling line setup than the FZJ80, with the 1FZ-FE.

Also, there are no heater pipes going down the firewall to feed and return from the rear heater.

 

[gilmorneau]

so driving in H4 at higher speeds (say the interstate) is still ok in slippery conditions right?

Well, setting aside the wisdom of driving at high speed in slippery conditions, yes, you could theoretically drive on the highway in 4WD under those circumstances.
That said, if you’re going to be driving it on ice or packed snow, I’d recommend good winter (not just all season) tires.

 

[gilmorneau]

Why don’t I like the triple locked term? I’m maybe an old school 80 guy and apparently cranky.

“Triple locked” is annoying but I’m seriously triggered when I see “magic dial” in the BaT comments. That one kills me.

 

[s13koop]

This is a 1HD-T diesel engine, completely different cooling line setup than the FZJ80, with the 1FZ-FE.

Also, there are no heater pipes going down the firewall to feed and return from the rear heater.

I realize that lol
I too have an HDJ81 but 1996.
Just trying to determine if I have no rear heater pipes to deal with. I suspect I don't

 

[Tanner H]

What a beautiful truck. I love the options this one has. 5 speed diesel with part-time, quad headlights, etc... Wouldnt lose too much sleep about the lack of cdl. I wouldnt blame the seller either...It was the paper pushers over at the BAT headquarters that just copy and paste specs. Surprised the ad didnt say 4 speed automatic transmission to be honest.

While you are waiting for delivery, I would take this time to hunt down a shop local to you that is familiar with this engine just in case something needs to be done now or down the road.


If you are looking for longevity, a couple things I would get sooner than later that are pretty inexpensive:

- boost controller
-boost gauge
- egt gauge

These engines like to stay cool and you have no way currently to tell how how your temps are doing without that egt gauge. I'm sure no one was smashing on this thing...but we all run egt gauges on our 1hdt's.

 

[duece71]

Well, setting aside the wisdom of driving at high speed in slippery conditions, yes, you could theoretically drive on the highway in 4WD under those circumstances.
That said, if you’re going to be driving it on ice or packed snow, I’d recommend good winter (not just all season) tires.

Aren’t there speed restrictions that prohibit high speeds in 4WD? Not to include a purpose 4WD racing vehicle of course.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Is it bad to keep the hubs locked like in wear and tear or fuel mileage? Am I wrong in thinking that if I did that it would just be the same as a full time 4wd 80?

How fast were you going when you hit the h4 button while moving?

And thank you for that clarification on the FTE! For some reason I was grouping them all together.

It's funny you say that about the exhaust...I'm thinking (at this point at least) that I will keep most things pretty close to as is and factory but I will certainly be seeing about removing the CA stuff almost immediately. I want this thing to be able to breathe! The only thing that might come earlier is cup holders lol
Do you recommend it with a straight pipe or with a resonator? Wonder how loud it is straight..
Any good brands that stand out for this vehicle?

1) Keeping the hubs locked will mean the front driveline is turning, but there is no power being sent to the front wheels. In a full-time 80, power is being sent to the front wheels all the time, so no it's not the same. A full-time 80 has effectively a differential in the transfer case that allows a speed differential between the front and rear wheels in the same way a traditional differential allows this between the left and right wheels on the same axle. This means that the vehicle can operate in high-traction situations without any 'binding' which would be experienced in a part-time vehicle in 4H/4L or full-time 80 with the CDL locked.
2) No worries, it's easy to be confused until you're familiar with the engine designation. Brief summary: 1HD - engine family, direct injection 6 cylinder diesel; -T = Turbo, -FT = 24 Valve head, Turbo, -FTE = 24 Valve, Turbo, Electronic Fuel Injection. Just for further confusion, about 11/92 a change was made to the 1HD-T with different pistons, injector seat washers etc. The later engines (like you have) are better (more durable) at higher power levels however you can build an early into a late with the updated parts.
3) Depends what you like - I ran a straight-piped 1HD-T as a daily driver for years and didn't find the sound objectionable, however it is loud and a less young me would probably put at least a resonator on it these days, and maybe even a muffler. A 3" exhaust (including dump pipe) with a resonator in the engine pipe and a muffler in the factory location will flow significantly better than stock (Only marginally less than a straight pipe) and make the engine much more responsive without being much if at all louder than stock. I noticed 2-3psi boost about 300 rpm sooner with a 3" exhaust over factory which is massively more 'drivable' but make sure you get a turbo back system, not a dump-pipe back system. Happy to discuss further over PM if you're interested - trying to be brand-neutral here as obviously we sell exhausts; so do many others.

 

[ikarus]

Looks great to me, nice find. Prices are pretty much in line with what I've seen. You can find RHD examples with similar mileage and condition for cheaper, but I know people pay a premium. For reference I paid $34K for a 150K mile 97 w/ 1HD-FT last year. RHD. I was looking at some LHD HDJ80s in the Canary Islands - also 95-97 but with 250K miles and a 5 speed that were around $44K landed in the US.

You'll love it, they're pretty simple to work on. Tons of resources online like the Factory Service Manual.

Also I don't want to be too much of a downer but you may want to look into the legality of the import... it may have a CA VIN and all that but it technically wasn't federally legal for import until 2019. Even though it's now past 2019, it was never legally imported in the eyes of the EPA and DOT. I think there's an easy way to now get it through customs and get that done - but I'm not the most knowledgeable about importing. Something to look into just to be safe.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Would I damage anything if I hit the H4 button while moving?

If the driveline is slack, ie, coasting, you can hit the button while rolling. You want to avoid hitting it while under power, or compression braking

Do you recommend it with a straight pipe or with a resonator? Wonder how loud it is straight..

Add a straight through full flow muffler and resonator IMO.
I ran 3" exhaust with no mufflers on a HDJ81. Sound was embarrassing, especially driving through my neighbourhood at 5am. Fitted mufflers ASAP!

There's no reason in terms of performance not to run full flow mufflers. It can be quiet, and unrestricted.
I ran big muffler and resonator on a hzj105, and it was way quieter

Thank you for the clarity with H4...so driving in H4 at higher speeds (say the interstate) is still ok in slippery conditions right?

Not advisable. If it's slippery, why are you running at high speeds?
Avoid locking in H4 on high traction surfaces aka tarmac. You'll get the drivelling binding up which puif unnecessary strain on parts.
if you accidentally lock it, or leave it locked, it's not going to be instantly catastrophic. Unlock s soon as you notice it.

I realize that lol
I too have an HDJ81 but 1996.
Just trying to determine if I have no rear heater pipes to deal with. I suspect I don't

If you have rear heater, the heater unit/ core will be visible under the right side front seat

 

[gilmorneau]

you may want to look into the legality of the import... it may have a CA VIN and all that but it technically wasn't federally legal for import until 2019. Even though it's now past 2019, it was never legally imported in the eyes of the EPA and DOT. I think there's an easy way to now get it through customs and get that done

This is correct. I mentioned it briefly in a comment during the BaT auction. At this point, with the car over 25 years old, it's really just a technicality and shouldn't be difficult to remedy with Customs.

 

[l0ngshot]

You CAN keep the hubs locked in the push the button at any speed to be 4wd. No reason to have the hubs locked unless you are on long dirt roads and don’t want to get out to change hubs.

It’s a killer 80, with a setup everyone would love to have. Really the only option people think it’s missing is the factory lockers. If you really wanted to go all out you can retrofit, and this one Probabaly deserves that, but harrop or ARBs are arguably better for some.

ahh this makes alot of sense - thank you for shedding light on the capabilities of how this system works. That's exactly what I'm after.
I doubt I will go too far out with anything really. The premise of getting this vehicle is it seems to me time has shown the engineers and manufactures behind it really won the race overall combined with the simplicity of it compared to todays seemingly unisex computerized specialized output coated with planned obsolescence. When I see people having a headlight out and they end up paying 5k or their fuel pump goes out and it costs them 10k I sum it up as planned robbery and I aim to avoid that.

Well, setting aside the wisdom of driving at high speed in slippery conditions, yes, you could theoretically drive on the highway in 4WD under those circumstances.
That said, if you’re going to be driving it on ice or packed snow, I’d recommend good winter (not just all season) tires.

Sound advice, I learned this exact thing while stationed in Germany. I'm mainly asking because I want to get an idea of the limitations of the system. Knowing that clearly will help me find the sweet spot of efficiency for this vehicle. This leads me to ask all sorts of dumb questions.

While you are waiting for delivery, I would take this time to hunt down a shop local to you that is familiar with this engine just in case something needs to be done now or down the road.


If you are looking for longevity, a couple things I would get sooner than later that are pretty inexpensive:

- boost controller
-boost gauge
- egt gauge

These engines like to stay cool and you have no way currently to tell how how your temps are doing without that egt gauge. I'm sure no one was smashing on this thing...but we all run egt gauges on our 1hdt's.

Thank you and great call! This is exactly what I was doing. Thanks to s13koop I found a local network on here and there's a mechanic not 10 miles away. He is apparently quite good and owns a 100 series and if that doesn't pan out there's a couple of others that seem to be good as well. This site is awesome.

An egt gauge would be good and I definitely can see how that would help to know what's going on but how would a boost controller help longevity?

 

[l0ngshot]

Aren’t there speed restrictions that prohibit high speeds in 4WD? Not to include a purpose 4WD racing vehicle of course.

This is what I was wondering

In a full-time 80, power is being sent to the front wheels all the time, so no it's not the same. A full-time 80 has effectively a differential in the transfer case that allows a speed differential between the front and rear wheels in the same way a traditional differential allows this between the left and right wheels on the same axle. This means that the vehicle can operate in high-traction situations without any 'binding' which would be experienced in a part-time vehicle in 4H/4L or full-time 80 with the CDL locked.

Thanks! This helps me understand the differences which is why I'm asking about the limitations of 4h. I don't want to assume the 4H system is the same as a full time 80 so I guess what I am slowly realizing and not wanting to forget is what gilmorneau said.. if I'm in 4H it's like a full time 80 with the CDL on. This means to me that if I don't need to be driving down the road just thinking hey I'm in a LandCruiser 80 series it's 4wd what could go wrong and not knowing it's either RWD with alot of weight or 4WD CDL engaged. Not sure if that made sense haha but I gave it a shot

2) No worries, it's easy to be confused until you're familiar with the engine designation. Brief summary: 1HD - engine family, direct injection 6 cylinder diesel; -T = Turbo, -FT = 24 Valve head, Turbo, -FTE = 24 Valve, Turbo, Electronic Fuel Injection. Just for further confusion, about 11/92 a change was made to the 1HD-T with different pistons, injector seat washers etc. The later engines (like you have) are better (more durable) at higher power levels however you can build an early into a late with the updated parts.

Unless I buy one a FT will always just mean fancy to me. Are they still making these engines? A coworker and I were talking and we found this. Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1518539338686516/
And thank you so much for the info about the change in 11/92. Did this help with the BEB issue I see talked about? Ihaven't really dived into this yet and wonder if it is something I should be prioritizing?

3) Depends what you like - I ran a straight-piped 1HD-T as a daily driver for years and didn't find the sound objectionable, however it is loud and a less young me would probably put at least a resonator on it these days, and maybe even a muffler. A 3" exhaust (including dump pipe) with a resonator in the engine pipe and a muffler in the factory location will flow significantly better than stock (Only marginally less than a straight pipe) and make the engine much more responsive without being much if at all louder than stock. I noticed 2-3psi boost about 300 rpm sooner with a 3" exhaust over factory which is massively more 'drivable' but make sure you get a turbo back system, not a dump-pipe back system. Happy to discuss further over PM if you're interested - trying to be brand-neutral here as obviously we sell exhausts; so do many others.

Awesome! If the performance is all relatively equal I will likely put a resonator and muffler on it. I am not aiming to turn any heads. In fact if anything I'd aim for the opposite. Once I get back and everything is sound I will definitely talk to you about exhausts in more detail as it does sound like 3" is the way to go. One foot in front of the other for me tho.

 

[l0ngshot]

Looks great to me, nice find. Prices are pretty much in line with what I've seen. You can find RHD examples with similar mileage and condition for cheaper, but I know people pay a premium. For reference I paid $34K for a 150K mile 97 w/ 1HD-FT last year. RHD. I was looking at some LHD HDJ80s in the Canary Islands - also 95-97 but with 250K miles and a 5 speed that were around $44K landed in the US.

You'll love it, they're pretty simple to work on. Tons of resources online like the Factory Service Manual.

Also I don't want to be too much of a downer but you may want to look into the legality of the import... it may have a CA VIN and all that but it technically wasn't federally legal for import until 2019. Even though it's now past 2019, it was never legally imported in the eyes of the EPA and DOT. I think there's an easy way to now get it through customs and get that done - but I'm not the most knowledgeable about importing. Something to look into just to be safe.

Thank you so much for the reference points. Were all these triple locked with the majic dial? Lol I say that because it definitely seems to increase the price I'm just not sure exactly how much. From my observation FT triple was the highest asks by far.

Is your RHD manual? If so how do you like it? I was thinking about doing the RHD until I realized I'd have to shift left handed and it was definitely manual or bust for me.

I just found out the factory service manual is in Spanish only so I will have to look into getting one in English. Do you happen to know offhand where I can find a factory service manual? I really need to learn Spanish.

Totally not a downer at all. I didn't check with DOT but I did check with Austin DMV and they said there was no issue for them at least.

 

[l0ngshot]

If the driveline is slack, ie, coasting, you can hit the button while rolling. You want to avoid hitting it while under power, or compression braking

You just made a lightbulb turn on in my head thank you this is a good thing to know!

Add a straight through full flow muffler and resonator IMO.
I ran 3" exhaust with no mufflers on a HDJ81. Sound was embarrassing, especially driving through my neighbourhood at 5am. Fitted mufflers ASAP!

There's no reason in terms of performance not to run full flow mufflers. It can be quiet, and unrestricted.
I ran big muffler and resonator on a hzj105, and it was way quieter

Yea I am pretty certain I will be doing the same as you have it.

Not advisable. If it's slippery, why are you running at high speeds?
Avoid locking in H4 on high traction surfaces aka tarmac. You'll get the drivelling binding up which puif unnecessary strain on parts.
if you accidentally lock it, or leave it locked, it's not going to be instantly catastrophic. Unlock s soon as you notice it.

I don't plan on running fast when it's slippery or anything it's moreso just learning the vehicles limitations and what it's capable of doing. It'll be my virgin time with it and I'm taking it from way north USA to way south.
The example that first comes to my head is say I'm on the interstate coming back and I go under a double overpass with a good layer of water across it. In this moment I don't want to assume it's a full time LC and I'm in 4wd as I'm actually in a 2RWD vehicle. Stuff like that.

 

[ikarus]

Thank you so much for the reference points. Were all these triple locked with the majic dial? Lol I say that because it definitely seems to increase the price I'm just not sure exactly how much. From my observation FT triple was the highest asks by far.

Is your RHD manual? If so how do you like it? I was thinking about doing the RHD until I realized I'd have to shift left handed and it was definitely manual or bust for me.

I just found out the factory service manual is in Spanish only so I will have to look into getting one in English. Do you happen to know offhand where I can find a factory service manual? I really need to learn Spanish.

Totally not a downer at all. I didn't check with DOT but I did check with Austin DMV and they said there was no issue for them at least.

Check out the resource section of Mud - you'll find just about everything you need there for FSMs:

80-series

FJ80, FZJ80 and related models

forum.ih8mud.com

The nice thing about the 80 Series is you can use the US FSM for the body, chassis, suspension, brakes, etc. Then use the international FSM for your specific engine.

Also not sure if you know about the diesel section but you'll find more info and people discussing the 1HD-T in here:

Diesel Tech / 24 volts

BJ/HJ diesels (3B, 13BT, 1KZ, 1HZ, 1PZ, etc) and other diesel conversions (ie: Isuzu, Hino, 4BT, 6BT, etc)

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[l0ngshot]

oh awesome I didn't know that - as soon as I get back I'll be jumping into those thank you!

 

[mudgudgeon]

I was thinking about doing the RHD until I realized I'd have to shift left handed and it was definitely manual or bust for me.

It'll take you all of a week to adjust to shifting with the other hand. It's a total non issue unless you really lack the coordinating to walk upright without dragging your knuckles

I say this with the experience of driving RHD in Australia all my life, then spending time in USA driving a LHD manual

 

[mudgudgeon]

I don't plan on running fast when it's slippery or anything it's moreso just learning the vehicles limitations and what it's capable of doing. It'll be my virgin time with it and I'm taking it from way north USA to way south.
The example that first comes to my head is say I'm on the interstate coming back and I go under a double overpass with a good layer of water across it. In this moment I don't want to assume it's a full time LC and I'm in 4wd as I'm actually in a 2RWD vehicle. Stuff like that.

As with any vehicle, drive conscientiously according to the conditions.
Avoid sudden changes in speed, direction, braking etc.

FYI, I was looking through some paperwork and noticed, when i bought my current '93 FZJ80, i owned it less than a week before doing a 1.5k mike road trip, some in remote country areas. Gave it a once over before doing so, but nothing more than check fluids, bearings, change engine oil etc

I'd so the sane again if i was satisfied with the vehicles maintenance history

 

[gilmorneau]

It'll take you all of a week to adjust to shifting with the other hand. It's a total non issue unless you really lack the coordinating to walk upright without dragging your knuckles

Completely agree with this, having grown up driving LHD cars in the USA and with thousands of km's experience driving RHD cars in the UK, NZ, and AUS. Not sure it even takes a week to adjust, more like minutes, really.

That said, I still wouldn't want a RHD vehicle in a LHD country, or vice versa. Not because I lack the coordination to do it, but because it simply puts the driver on the "wrong" side of the car. Pulling out into traffic, passing, visibility generally, becomes more difficult.

One man's opinion. YMMV